Sticky parts - what coating when redoing?

Curious how it goes for you. Post results when done. Good luck.

 

.....seeing a thread where someone used Plast-i- cote spray.

As far as I can remember it looked very nice on the photos he supplied.

//B//

 

Texture Spray on Column surround
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Plasti Dip on vents- (Pardon the water)
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I know--

 

We don't use a textured paint and we don't use any of the products that have been mentioned in this thread. Also please remember guys, every car is NOT the same. Just because a certain product works on Joe's parts does not mean it will work on Mike's parts... Parts even run different within the same car. There have been plenty of times a upper steering surround cleans up in 30 min and the lower takes me 3 hours.... Because the sticky stuff needs a different method/product to strip properly...

 

I've got just a few stricky parts. (window switches) and will be sending to Robbie when my car comes back from the major.

In doing some research, I came across this site which looks interesting but probably only feasible on a commercial scale. Very expensive and needs good spray equipment.

http://alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm

 

That's really cool. However, it may melt like the Ferrari oem

 

So, I'm in the middle of doing mine too. I will be getting the parts sprayed by a local custom shop with 2-pack OEM soft feel paint, either Dupont or Sikkens (the guy is getting the codes & colours matched to a part I've given him). He'll be using adhesion promoter and primer. Apparently most automotive plastics are flame-treated prior to paint but my guy can't replicate that. However, he claims to have good results in the past. My original parts took 15 years to go sticky, if the refinished parts take another 15 years to go the same then I'd call that success!

The deal is that I prep the parts myself. This is what I've discovered... On the majority of parts there appears to be a layer of soft-feel paint, then the primer layer then the parent material, plastic/metal depending what it is. For the first few parts I have taken the parts right back to the parent paterial, e.g. steering column shrouds I have sanded right down.

However, talking to the guys who will do my paint, they have urged me to leave the primer layer intact. My technique is now:

1. thick coat of foaming oven cleaner. El-cheapo basic from the supermarket.
2. Leave to work 20 to 30 minutes
3. "Scrub"clean with scotchbrite scouring sponge, the kind you use for washing dishes.
4. Wash with warm soapy water

This has been working like a charm for me. Leaves the primer layer lightly scuffed and ready for paint.

I personally will not be refinishing the toggle switches on the centre console, but as an interesting aside, according to my painter they are actually finished in clear soft feel, NOT black. So if you want to win concours events then keep it in mind when refinishing.

 

The route you've chosen is pretty cool and definetly different and more specialized than other posts I've seen. Please keep us updated and get some pics.

I have found that a great way to wipe off the easy off and the black goo is to pour a little brake fluid onto a rag and then wipe it off, it comes off quite easily.

 

Well, funny you should say that. My paint guy said to me that when they want to strip plastic parts they leave them to soak 24hrs in cheapest dot 4 brake fluid. It doesn't harm the plastic and completely lifts the paint, especially if you score the paint before hand.

I have not had the guts to try this myself, but if you think about it the brake reservoir in most cars is plastic and they have rubber parts in the system so it could be ok.

He assures me that they do it ll the time and have never had a problem.

Meanwhile, I'm sticking to oven cleaner

 

You're correct, you absolutely need the Oven cleaner first. What I am suggesting is once you have soaked the part for 5-10 minutes, wipe off all the excess fluid, then pour a little brake fluid onto a rag and wipe off the rest of the goo and oven cleaner with the rag containing the brake fluid, it will come off much much faster and easier.

Using brake fluid alone will not do anything, you must use the oven-cleaner first.

My recipe is Oven cleaner, then brake fluid, then denatured alcohol.

 

Cool. Will give it a try.

 

Looking good.

 

....yes they do. Considering the number of posts already available on this subject, maybe there will finally be a definitive answer to the process.

 

I did mine with Satin black paint, I think it was Rustoleum. I agree with the prep and repeated light coats, thats where the quality of the finish is most evident. I did everything with the paint and it looks great, no issues. I used a small piece of painters tape on the white arrows on the vents so they are still there and it retains the factory looks.

I disassembled half of my switches at first and taped them off , but did the next set by just taping the bases. I cant tell the difference betwen teh two meathods, and MUCH less frustrating not dealing with the tiny springs and detents!

Ash tray, mirror covers, door handles and most big parts are pretty easy, again the prep is where the time should be spent. As for the switch surround covers, Daniel has them so cheap you can just buy new ones.