Hi folks, as the title implies, I am now starting the work on my new to me Mondial 8. I ordered the belts, bearings and water pump from Superformance and will be installing them this weekend. I have replaced all trunk, engine lid and front bonnet struts with Monroe # 901336, rated for 80 lbs. ($16/pc.). The flange that attaches to the pivot rod is a little thinner and added washers to fit. Engine lid opens automatically when accessed. Very happy with the result. I have ordered a Harada MQ 1 semi automatic antenna and will be installing that as soon as it comes. I am also replacing the dated Kenwood cassette player with an Alpine CD unit for "occasional use". I will also be replacing all fluids. Coolant - Prestone Dex-cool Engine Oil - 10W50 "Dino" as per manufacturers recommendation. Any suggestion with the brand? Gear Oil/Transmission oil - 75W90 Synthetic. I am thinking Lucas brand. Anybody had use this? I tried sourcing out Redline but cannot locate supplier in Toronto. I do not have the 1st to 2nd cold issue. Brake/Clutch Fluid - DOT4 All belts will also be replaced. Gates 7208 and Gates 7261. Smog pump had been deleted by PO. I am also considering HT wires replacement. I'll probably use Accel 4040R 8mm. Spark plugs will be Bosch W 7 DS. Filters are as follows: Fuel Filter - Purolator F64857 Oil Filter - Fram PH2804-1 I have posted all available part number so other members can give me a suggestion on better products or correct me if numbers are incorrect. I'll try to document the process and post it. Hoping that all goes well and no surprises.
Since you posted the part numbers, lots of F-car guys steer clear of the Fram filters as an inferior part. Search the 308/328 forum for "fram." Better choices (IMHO) are the UFI 2316202 or the Baldwin B253. When I bought my Mondial, it had the UFI, I have replaced it with Baldwin ever since. I believe there isn't much in it between the two, but Baldwin was half the price of the UFI.
Sounds good Al. As a "while you're in there"... how's your shift shaft seals? http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=140547049&postcount=19 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282800 Also, what's your fuel hoses like? http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=100056_100061&products_id=343657
As planned, I started the timing belt process last Friday at 8:00PM. I followed Birdmans tutorial and everything was going good until removing the water pump. All of the bolt came out easy except 1. The dowel had rusted out and seized in the bolt. The bolt snapped leaving the stud into the block and water pump housing. All possible solution was exhausted and the only way that would come out is by drilling 4 holes on the top on the water pump housing and spraying the hole with penetrating oil and heating the underside of the housing. A slit had to be made to the housing to allow movement. After 7 hours of agony, the housing finally broke loose and was able to remove the broken bolt. Slit made will be welded. A new dowell will also be installed. It is recommended to apply "never seize" on the non threaded part of the bolt to avoid rusting. Do not apply the "never seize on the thread as will affect the torque setting. I also discovered that the crankshaft seal is leaking and will be replaced prior to reassembly. Anybody know the part number? The by-pass hose is full of gunk and will also be replaced. I will check all suggested "while you're in there area" and repair/replace as needed. I'll post progress as soon as I have all the parts to install. Enjoy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would also check the bearings for the lower timing belt pulleys as one of mine has collapsed. You will need to remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower cam pulleys and then remove the drive box. The bearings are on superformance and are very cheap but it will be expensive if they break!
Hi Am i right in thinking that those Monroe supports will fit a 1983 Mondial QV as well if so that is a result.
Hi dandpl, yes the Monroe will fit all struts support in a Mondial. I might have to put additional washers to keep it in position. The Gates belts part number are as follows: (printed on the belt) Gates 7M975 USA11FF and Gates 11M925USA OKK. A/C belt is for Aspera compressor. I am still waiting for some parts and the repair will proceed. I'll post any progress.
Just an update. I am near completion of the service and had been searching for an air filter. I found out that the air filter for the Caliber will fit the Mondial. Part No. WIX 49192. The uppermost filter is an original Ferrari filter. The bottom picture is the replacement one. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just replaced mine with the K&N performance filter $70: http://www.ebay.com/itm/33-2662-K-N-Air-Filter-FERRARI-MONDIAL-8-3-2-V8-1985-88-/170646514092?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27bb5329ac#ht_1337wt_1139 K&N’s replacement air filters are designed to increase horsepower and acceleration while providing excellent filtration. These filters are washable and reusable and are custom designed to fit into your existing factory air box. Million-Mile Limited Warranty™ and will be THE LAST AIR FILTER YOUR VEHICLE WILL EVER NEED. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I tried one on my Benz and it caused my MAF to fail, so I'm back to paper but I guess on a Ferrari it may be fine.
I tried these and was told to remove them immediately and put the paper factory air filter back in , many threads on this . Apparantly the oil that coats the filter finds it way downstream onto the maf sensor . Just sharing ......
Yikes, I have been using K&N filters for over 5 of my cars in the past and never had any problems. I have had it in my 3.2 for 8 months now and everything is fine. But I will read the threads. Thanks.
Just for reference, the WIX filter cost me $7.00. Put it in and once dirty, take it out and put a brand new one in. No cleaning and maintenance. Just my .02 cents.
After researching the forum threads on K&N filters and MAF sensor problems, this is what I have concluded: The problem of the MAF sensor going bad is due to owners after cleaning their k&n air filter, spray too much oil on it and can foul up the MAF sensors and cause the CEL to light up. I don't ever spray or add oil to my filters, just tap it to get the dirt out. Also I don't drive on dirty air roads so I am not going to worry about it. My K&N has never let me down yet in my Mondial, 911, Z cars, or Miata, so I will keep in it. read more on this thread here. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353645&highlight=MAF+sensor+k%26n
Mike, K&N filters need the oil to function properly. It is the oil that is essential to make the filtration process effective. No oil means none or very little filtering of particles that will make its way to the fuel system and engine. This is of no way persuading you to change the filter. Just for information purposes only.
Thanks for the heads up. After reading all the thread regarding Fram, I bought a Bladwin B253 filter. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I agree Mike. I never oiled mine, it was straight from the box, is it a coincidence that my MAF failed shortly after? Maybe but after I replaced it, I went back to paper for peace of mind.
Ted, LoL, I think your particular filtered came with extra oil, prob from the person at the factory who over sprayed -a fluke I would think. Like I said, I had my k&n filter in my 3.2 for over 8-9 months now, never had any problems with the engine and I've put 2k miles on it since. I will however, take it out and look at it again for excess oil but don't remember seeing any when I put it in. I do prefer the performance air filters to the stock ones given a choice. Thanks for your input.
No (electric) MAF sensor on a 3.2 (but there is on a t) -- still not great to get the (mechanical) airflow metering device in a 3.2 oily so go easy on the lube.
Thanks Steve, details are everything when diagnosing a problem! Good to know with all of the opinions out there on this topic, hard to determine what is what. I will check my air filter again for extra oily bits but I never oil them, only how they came new in a box.
Yes, this is not a "one-size-fits-all" situation. I'd have no hesitation at all using a K&N on a carbed car as there's always enough fuel vapor in the airbox/venturi/throttle plate areas to keep things "washed" clean. Our K/KE-Jet models shouldn't have too much of a problem, but if the airflow metering plate and funnel get an oily coating they might retain dust/grime a bit as there's minimal fuel vapors in that area. The later models with hot-wire MAF (e.g., Motronic) are definitely at more risk for trouble IMO.
The water pump housing repair completed and already installed. As mentioned, the car sat for 4 years and to be on the safe side, I decided to do the timing belt change. This turned out to be a wise decision as the tensioner bearing is on it's way out. The inner race fell out when the bolt was removed. The crankshaft seal , cam drive pulley bearing are both leaking. The bearing of the water pump also fell out when removed and also leaking. The timing belt is contaminated due to the numerous leaks. After changing the cam drive pulley bearing and completing the install, I discovered the cracked nut. A new nut will be installed. New timing belts , tensioner bearings, water pump are all in place. More work to go. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
