Air Flow Meters and Code P1160

Tough to say, but definitely a possibility- I had the same code and we replaced both MAFs (in addition to checking all injectors, many electrical connections, etc)- they are about $1K each and do go bad (I think the engine compartment heat shortens the life vs a "normal" car), but the labor to install them should be very low though as they are right there by the air filter boxes. The MAFs are crazy expensive when a "normal" car with a Bosch MAF is $200-300/MAF, but that is the Ferrari Markeup.

I would get this fixed now vs waiting - I ran with a CEL code like that while we were trying to chase down the cause, and blew out a pre-cat- could have been unrelated, but I think operating with the mixture off from bad MAF's could have caused one of my precats to get destroyed in the process....new header from Ferrari $4K plus upgraded 2 old main cats after one was damaged with the precat material- total was about $9K+. Don't screw around when you have a MAF/check engine light issue

After replacing my MAFs, I did notice better motor response/generally better running by the way...

 

I will go the other way. An OBDII reader will clear the codes. I would drive and clear the codes as I investigated.

Do you get the P1160s on both MAFs or one? If on one, switch them from L to R. You can do this in a few minutes, no need for a shop. You will also feel productive, and it will take much less time than driving to your mechanic.

If you switch them and the code follows the MAF, then you can try and clean it. Or you can try to clean both. Many have strong feelings, way too strong IMO, about to clean or not to clean a MAF. I clean mine. If that does not fix the issue, then I replace them. How to clean? I use alcohol and cue tip and take care on the thin film. It is delicate. I have also used contact cleaner (radio shack) if the alcohol does not work the first time.

I usually detect failure by measuring the voltage at idle and under light revvs on each MAF. The voltage should be the same from L to R. I have seen 7 volts on a Bosche MAF signal line! No telling what the ECU did with that info. It should be 0-5v. Left to right should be about the same.

Can you damage your cats or pre-cats, sure its possible, after the CE comes on again, do a spirited short run at night, stop, open rear bonnet, look at header pre cats and main cats and look for glowing red areas. If the MAF fails in a rich mode your cats will have to work hard to catalyze all of that C8H18, the side effect is the abnormal elevation of CAT temps which can cause damage.

 

I had CEL also on my F360. Tried everything from cleaning both left and right MAF. Replaced some O2 sensors. Shop reset them several times, but to no avail. Shop around for your MAF, you can find better prices out there than the dealer.

 

SEVEN Volts? Wow, first time I've heard of that happening. Whenever I've scope'd a faulty MAF on one of these the highest voltage they make is 1-2 volts, with a good one not quite making 5 at best. (same p code logged). You should also look at the long term fuel trim and check intake manifold gaskets for leakage before condemning the maf's. The adaptive values also need resetting after maf replacement.

 

I cleaned both my MAF sensors after having same code . CEL still off but Im not exactly driving the car right now so not sure if I've fixed problem. Cold idle is improved though. Not much more effort to clean both sensors vs just one and little to lose by attempting to clean rather than replace IME.

 

Yes 7 volts. Clearly a nuclear meltdown inside the part. This was on my Porsche (Bosch MAF). To see anything close to 5 volts you would have to be near redline at wide open throttle, full load. I have seen 4.5v data collecting a 2nd gear dyno run. I am not sure of the air mass curve on my 430s MAF, but expect they probably use 2x 300 HP (in relative air mass flow) MAFs so I would take a swag that the max voltage would be more like 4v. But it does not matter to diagnose MAF issues because its usually still reading somewhere between 0-1v at idle good or bad.

+1; I do agree you should check all of the intake clamps, gaskets, hoses, first. Any leak after the MAF will skew its reading on the lean side (too much air, not enough fuel). This is easy on the CATs, but hard on combustion temps, and in extreme cases can melt/warp important moving parts in the combustion chamber.

 

Great news! Now carefully put the Q tips back in the box

About how long did the process take? I recall you said you had not cleaned them before and was wondering the typical DIY estimate.

 

Chad -

Merry Christmas! (ok, I'm three months late).

I have two MAF's in inventory that we got as a buy-out from another dealer's dead-stock. Call me on Thursday at Ricambi America (336-499-2500) and they're yours for free.

 

Three months late? No way! You're nine months early man!

What a generous offer!

 

Hey Guys,
I just got this code for the first time, I have been having issues with hesitation and holding RPM at idle. Could this all be cos of my mafs?

Chadly is your car all sorted with the new mafs?

One last thing has anyone bought mafs from this place:
http://www.maf-shop.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Ferrari&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=&pfrom=&pto=&x=64&y=20

 

Hey guys,
I installed my new airflows that I got form the link in my previous post. They look the part and they worked! They fixed all my hesitation and lag issues and now the car is amazing!

Cheers,
Pete