The Ultimate "Sticky interior fix" experiment | FerrariChat

The Ultimate "Sticky interior fix" experiment

Discussion in '348/355' started by treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Page 1 of 5
  1. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #1 treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So I have finished my interior and resolved all the sticky issues. I have documented and took pictures of this long and exhausting process and I've written up my recipe and method in order to share with my fellow Fchat brothers.

    Also, I should point out that my initial reaction to the stickynomore sponsor was that he was too expensive and the work was relatively simple and not worth that kind of money. I assumed that the bulk of the work was taking it apart and putting it back in. Let me admit right here right now that I was WAAAAAAAAY OFF! and DEAD WRONG.

    The amount of work and time is insane, achieving a proper finish can be difficult on certain parts so for those of you who want to do this, I would reccommend sending the parts to Stickynomore (I am not affiliated with the sponsor at all but I've heard all the feedback and seen plenty of pictures) For those of you who love working on your 355 and want to do the work yourself, I have come up with a recipe that has provided me with excellent results.

    The first thing you need to do is buy an HVAC panel overlay from Ricambi (available in celsius or farhenheit). It's only 80$ and worth every penny. Instructions are available on ricambiamerica.com

    That overlay panel has a certain look, color and texture. My objective was to replicate that finish so that all the plastic parts had the same consistent look. I absolutely hate looking at a 355 interior and seeing a major difference in finish between that panel and the rest of the centre console.

    First off I tested with different methods of cleaning off the gooey black residue and I must tell you that windex, denatured alcohol, brake fluid and soot cleaners alone just don't work.

    The absolute best way to clean is to spray on the easy off and let it sit for a long time, sometimes even overnight. the next day, spray some more easy off and scrub off with a plastic brush or toothbrush for the vents or a coarse steel wool followed by a medium steel wool.

    It's also a good idea to get some brake fluid in a spray bottle and spray some on the parts as you are scrubbing. Once you're done scrubbing, wipe off with a cloth and it will turn very black. Wipe off completely and inspect the part.....if you still see residue, spray some more easy off and scrub again....repeat the procedure until it's all clean.

    Once it looks good enough, spray some more easy off all over and rinse off the part under hot water. Once it's rinsed off, spray some windex all over it and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Rinse off under hot water again and let it dry.

    You will easily be able to see if the stuff has come off or not. the toughest part for me was the steering column, I scrubbed like mad thinking it was all out, rinsed it off only to realize it was still there! It takes a lot of elbow grease and patience.

    IMPORTANT NOTE: The above method does not apply to the buttons and switches, I was too afraid to take them apart for cleaning so I decided to clean without dismantling but if easy off hits the markings it will erase them so you must be careful.

    I actually sat in front of the TV with q-tips and cleaned them off by avoiding the marking and keeping it clean by applying rubbing alcohol on the marking several times during the process. This was the toughest part: sitting there dipping the q-tip in easy off, brake fluid and rubbing alcohol and cleaning each switch....

    I also rubbed them carefully with steel wool, and removed some of the sticky stuff with my nails and sometimes an exacto knife using very little pressure. Each switch requires about 75 minutes to clean......

    It also does not apply to the instrument cluster cover if you leave the lights in it as I did (I was afraid to dismantle the lights and be unable to put them back so I covered them with tape while I cleaned and painted that part)
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    355OXO likes this.
  2. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #2 treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #3 treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Once everything was finally clean, it was time to paint....

    My main objective was to achieve a consistent finish all over the interior plastic. Because the finish on the HVAC panel replacement cannot be changed, I decided to try and match it as close as possible. When you receive the panel, the holes are cut out of it but the circles are still on it so I took that circle as a template for the finish I wanted to achieve.

    I tested several products and finishes and I also performed a visual test in artifical light, natural light, scratch resistance test and heat test to see which one was the best.

    I sprayed all 5 finishes I wanted to test on a piece of plexiglas and labelled each one. I then put heat on each one with a heat gun for 30 seconds, I gently rubbed it 12 times back and forth with the tip of a scissor and, in the end, I came to a conclusion: The krylon outdoor textured finish had the best texture, durability and strength. However, it was a little too shiny so I decided I would spray it on all the parts and then use the SEM trim black for the final coat which dulls it and flattens it out.

    You can see on my test board where I painted a triangle of SEM right on top of the krylon texture finish and the circle looks identical.

    I also tested the SEM primers and plastic adhesion promoters. I followed the instructions and timing perfectly and the parts never became dry and kept being sticky to the touch. It was almost like the primer was preventing the paint from drying even after waiting overnight so I decided not to prime the parts and spray the krylon texture directly on top of all the plastics with light coats.

    I much prefer all my trim to have the same consistent finish so I used the krylon textured/Sem paint combo on everything including the ashtray cover and the vents. If you prefer a more OEM look, you can spray some plasti dip on the vents and ashtray cover but I personally don't trust the strength of the plasti dip and its adhesion.

    NOTE: The texture looks a lot more pronounced on the photos, it's actually a lot less visible in person and looks fantastic.

    I will post here later on and let everyone know how the parts look and how they resist over time (after 6 months, a year, etc...)
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    355OXO likes this.
  4. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #4 treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    More pictures of all painted parts and reassembled. As you can see, the difference between the black part of the HVAC panel and the rest of the black parts is very minimal.

    I also used an acrylic clear coat on all the switches to refresh their look and they came out looking new.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    355OXO likes this.
  5. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #5 treedee3d, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    More photos of all the parts reassembled. Special thanks to Jay (full_garage) for giving me the 4 stickers I needed for the vents. Obviously, the arrows will dissapear during the cleaning process so you can either leave them plain or get a vinyl reproduction and stick it on.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    rennspeed likes this.
  6. spaghetti_jet

    spaghetti_jet Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2005
    854
    Europa
    Full Name:
    Bob
    #6 spaghetti_jet, Mar 9, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2012
    Very cool. Great work!! I'm in the middle of doing mine right now and completely agree about the sheer amount of work involved.

    I've bought the overlay for the HVAC panel too and I was somewhat disappointed that it isn't soft touch like the original. However I've decided to go original throughout replacing like-for-like and keeping everything else soft touch, so I will have a mismatch on the centre panel for now until I can think of a better idea.

    I haven't taken a huge amount of photos but you've inspired me to load up the few I've taken.

    I was thinking about posting a "how-to" for popping the switch covers off and putting them back successfully since I elected to dismantle my switches. You've inspired me & I'll do that when I get some spare time.

    Anyway, NICE work.

    Bob.
     
  7. rbellezza

    rbellezza F1 Rookie

    Jun 18, 2008
    2,792
    Henderson, NV
    Full Name:
    Roberto Bellezza
    #7 rbellezza, Mar 9, 2012
    Wow !
     
  8. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
    Owner Project Master

    Nov 1, 2006
    2,874
    Portugal
    #8 RGigante, Mar 9, 2012
    WOW! Great work! Thanks for sharing!
     
  9. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #9 treedee3d, Mar 10, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012
    The Krylon paint I used is available at the hardware store and it's called Krylon outdoor spaces textured finish (black). the SEM is 15243 Satin black and, just to specify, the Tremclad textured is the exact same product as Rustoleum textured (it's just called a different name up here in Canada)

    If the krylon is not available, you can use the rustoleum or tremclad textured instead. they look almost identical except the tremclad rustoleum did not perform well at all during my heat test.

    When clear coating the switches, you must not use a "lacquer" clear coat because it will fade and yellow out quickly in the sun.
     
  10. tech4ferrari

    tech4ferrari Karting
    Professional Ferrari Technician

    Jan 22, 2010
    234
    Mt Airy N,C
    Full Name:
    casey johnson
    #10 tech4ferrari, Mar 10, 2012
    If you don't mind me asking, where did you source the stickers from for the vents?
     
  11. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #11 treedee3d, Mar 10, 2012
    I wasn't going to bother with the arrows but they were a generous gift from a fellow Fchatter. He had his interior done and had some leftover. They are not available for resale as far as I know.
     
  12. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #12 treedee3d, Mar 17, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. F355 Spider

    F355 Spider Formula 3

    Jun 21, 2006
    2,204
    Portland, OR
    Full Name:
    Sonny
    #13 F355 Spider, Mar 17, 2012
    From the pix that looks awesome!!! I need to do something with mine, it's in bad shape, but with a 3yr old and an 3 month old, time doesn't exist in my world right now :)
     
  14. JSL

    JSL Formula 3

    Jan 5, 2002
    2,212
    California
    Full Name:
    J.S. Leonard
    #14 JSL, Mar 17, 2012
    Can someone say, COMPULSIVE? :) Oh yeah, it's a common trait in all owners of the famous 355! I confess, I am one too.

    Beautiful, great job! Hope to see it sometime. I've had mine out more now that I've done the sticky part repair.
     
  15. jimmym

    jimmym Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2008
    1,967
    Northeast U.S.
    Full Name:
    Jim
    #15 jimmym, Mar 18, 2012
    Nice job testing the different products. Good documentation.



    Jimmy
     
  16. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,661
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #16 yelcab, Mar 18, 2012
    Treedee,

    I think you are one hell of a stooge. Welcome to the brotherhood with all the contribution you have made.

    Personally, I find your results more texture than I like personally. But that is just my taste. Great work.
     
  17. 285ferrari

    285ferrari Two Time F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Sep 11, 2004
    20,845
    Southern Md
    Full Name:
    Robbie
    #17 285ferrari, Mar 18, 2012
    Send me an email and I will get some arrow decals out to you
     
  18. JSL

    JSL Formula 3

    Jan 5, 2002
    2,212
    California
    Full Name:
    J.S. Leonard
    #18 JSL, Mar 18, 2012
    Class act Robbie!
     
  19. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #19 treedee3d, Mar 18, 2012
    Thank you for the kind words. Like I said, the texture looks a lot more pronounced on the photos than looking at it directly. It also matches the HVAC panel very very well.

    I would reccomend using the SEM trim paint if you don't want the texture or even plasti-dip but the plasti-dip should be applied in several very very light coats and allowing it to dry between coats to get the best results in my opinion
     
  20. mdsassaman

    mdsassaman Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 4, 2006
    246
    Reading, PA
    Full Name:
    Mike Sassaman
    #20 mdsassaman, Mar 19, 2012
    Thanks for this thread, I'm sure it helped many people make the decision to re-finish or send the parts out. I refinished a few small parts and then decided to send the rest to Sticky-no-more and I am really glad I did. Turn around was great and the finished product is perfect.
    Mike 348 TS SS
     
  21. Extreme

    Extreme F1 Rookie

    May 26, 2010
    2,515
    Northern Utah
    Full Name:
    Erick
    #21 Extreme, Mar 19, 2012
    Someone before me had the sticky stuff removed and reinstalled the parts with no finish. Im thinking maybe I'll remove and refinish the parts with the kyrlon texture paint you used.
    Looks fantastic.
     
  22. ndnbill

    ndnbill Karting

    Mar 3, 2009
    70
    Las Vegas
    Full Name:
    William
    #22 ndnbill, Mar 19, 2012
    thanks for the posts--they will be invaluable for anyone brave enough to do what you did and certainly makes me feel better about what I paid Robbie. Not that I wasn't already satisfied with Stickynomore. To the contrary the work was perfect. It is just that I would have gone completely nuts trying to do what you did and what it cost me to have Robbie do was money well spent.
    Hear's to you
     
  23. jevs

    jevs Formula Junior

    Oct 13, 2010
    477
    Missouri
    #23 jevs, Mar 19, 2012
    In my opinion, different parts in the car need different things. Some parts I left raw, and they look great (vents). Some parts need to be stripped, but only of the sticky and leave the base primer (switches). Some switches the primer or base coat (whatever you choose to call it will be weak and these need to be stripped and refinished completely. The metal parts, the column parts, the switch surrounds all need to be stripped and go through refinishing. Metal parts will need etching primer, plastic parts will need one of two adhesion promoters depending on the type of plastic.

    You can see my posts, process, and finished results here:

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=355700

    Take a look at my switches. One switch was replaced not too long ago and moulded in black rather than gray and possibly a newer type of factory finish. It was still tough as nails and I tested some chems on it and there was no need to do anything to it. A couple switches I stripped completely, scuffed, applied ashesion promoter and coated with the SEM honda bumper coat (same as color coats, but a better match on finish than their other choices). Most of the switches, I just cleaned the sticky off with alcohol and the base coat (the coat applied before the sticky coat at the manufacturer), was fine and no further action was needed. Some people think they have these parts stripped when they get to the black, but really they are just to the base coat. All of my switches except the one that had been replaced are actually molded in grey.

    Anyway, look at the pictures of my switches and they all look the same even though they are done differently. If you can get away with just q-tipping the sticky off with alcohol and have a strong base coat, then you are done. Easy. Vents, strip them and leave them if the plastic is not sun burnt. The rest of the parts need refinishing. Of course each car will be in different conditions, this was my experience.

    Of course sending them off is a great option if your lazy :) You will get great looking parts back and it will be less work. This does take time and Robbie is getting what he should for the work. I would never do this for someone else, but for me I could never pay to do what I can do myself. It's the only way I get ahead and keep my money to even afford a Ferrari :)
     
  24. treedee3d

    treedee3d F1 Rookie

    Apr 1, 2011
    3,721
    Montreal
    Full Name:
    Fab
    #24 treedee3d, Mar 19, 2012
    I am insanely anal when it comes to getting stuff to look consistent so I could not imagine using different finishes. I had to have all the plastic look the same and I had to have the finish match the hvac replacement panel.

    My experimentation with the Sem primers and adhesion promoters did not work well with the Krylon so I just made sure everything was clean, dry and scuffed so the paint would stick. Everything I painted was plastic except for the ashtray cover.

    I think the stuff looks great and I need to take better pictures because it looks way "over-textured" on the posted pics but looks superb when looking at it directly.

    For the switches, I was too scared to take them apart so cleaning them with the q-tip was the best bet and refinishing them with clear coat was easy and made them all look new and can be reapplied.

    It would be interesting to see how my parts, Jevs and Full_garage holds up over the summer heat and perhaps revive this post with our durability results in order to help other diy guys who want to do this job on their car.
     
  25. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,597
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    #25 dahveedem, Jun 14, 2012
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2012
    I cleaned up my ashtray with dot 3/4 fluid. Amazing.

    Here is interesting tidbit from my side.

    I cleaned up my parts. Painted them with plastidip. Then went over that with Rustoleum texture. Looks like treedee.

    Now on the ashtray - cleaned with dot 3/4. Painted with rustoleum texture first, then with plasticity.

    Interestingly, much smoother finish. anyone have HD pics of stickynomore sorted vents on a 348?

    I will for sure send my vents to SNM, but if I can get my flats close to SNM I can save some cash.

    Mobilized reply by David
     
Page 1 of 5

Share This Page