Timing chain fitting

Having removed most of the skin from my knuckles for the last three hours does anyone know if it is actually possible to install the new chain in a continuous loop?


In the manual l it talks about joining the chain though the new chain comes continuous loop. The old one came off still in a loop but maybe that was just lucky the only one in a million angles that would work!

I have installed the new chain in the idlers on the cover then carefully got it in the driving gear with the three studs with the front cover to the side but for the life of me no matter what angle i try it just wont go on.

Any help would be appreciated
Regards
Alastair

 

Further to last think I might have found the solution.

I think you put the 'three pin driven chain gear fitting' inside the front cover loosely with the chain in round the idlers then move it all close to the engine front and slide the fitting on there and make up with a slim spanner from the top/sides

I had tried to fit the 'three pin driven chain gear fitting' on to the engine first with the chain round the gears. With the front cover to the side.

Will give a try and advise in case anyone else could use the info.
Regards
Alastair

 

Thanks
your right I should have slept on it before trying the first time, once I get away from work I will be on it and update once were there.

Good stuff
Regards
Alastair

 

Having tried both ways it looks as if one needs to split the chain to install, strange though as I got it out in one piece.

Oh well chain split it is and make up once threaded round the cams.

All good fun and moving forward.

 

Good idea Ken
as it would be interesting to know how much stretch there is after 30 000 miles which is when it was replaced before. Will advise.

The wp oil pump chain is new too and it was very difficult to install the new 'Renold' tensioner as the chain was quite tight so releasing the tensioner was not happening because its a flimsy plastic release or key that you turn with a screwdriver from the sump, I came up with a cunning plan which involved tying a length of cord around the tensioner and having it pre released so when all installed I simply undid the knot and hey presto a released tensioner and pull the cord away.

Its great to be moving forward so for hopefully the last time the sump and wp/oil pump are fitted next will be the main chain
Regards
Alastair

 

Ken
I measured the two together and to my surprise they are exactly the same length! That is after 30 000 miles. 50 000km.

Brand new one at top old one at bottom as in photos.

The length of the chains as in the picture is 846mm left to right. The exact length if the chain was split i dont know yet but will be doing so shortly.

Regards
Alastair
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Hello 166
I have the correct rivetter and interference fit riviting links which Renold kindly gave me so it will be as same when made up so all good.

The chain was replaced 30 000 miles ago but not since then as I have all the reciepts and detailed history of the car, like you say its for sure surprising that there is no stretch in this instance whatsoever. All good fun
Regards
Alastair

 

Hello John
I had the bearings go in the waterpump so rebuilt that and was putting back together when the final thing to do was activate the ''Renold tensioner' small plasic tensioner for the oil/waterpump fell in bits dont know why it had done so but all I know is the newer tensioner is made of metal and plastic so more robust. I am now the worlds leading expert on installing this!!!!
In any case I then had to do the front cover so while in there decided to replace the chain because the manual said 'replace after there is no adjustment left or 50 000 km (30 000 miles) If you still have adjustment and the chain has been getting oil correctly youve got to be fine. Ive been told they stretch very little if at all Renold are apparently the best and cheap chain will stretch I was told.
Other stuff i found was I checked needle bearings in the idlers as I thought they had too much play so replaced and also discovered no difference but it was the only way to find out.
The bearing on the engine end of the driven shaft for the timming chain was worn and had exessive play so was replaced.
I am by no means an expert so just making sure I do everything slow and as correct as possible so I wont be getting a job with Brettski anytime soon but I must say its great fun and very satisfying overcoming these tasks to move forward.
more update as the chain goes in.
Regards
Alastair

 

Good point Ak
Ime not sure I will ask 'Renold' I did speak to a guy today who had a lot of experience he didnt mention this but he said that theres chain and then theres chain he said that a cheap or low quality chain will stretch very quickly but very high quality chains such as 'Renold' dont. Jings and i thought that chain was just chain!
Regards
Alastair

 

Your spot on there John
Definitely built to be able to be fixed mechanically, I think this is one advantage compared to the modern cars. Oh and there much better looking!

 

Ken
Another good point, I think, in the workshop manual there is a specification for the spring in the timming chain tensioner, so it could be taken out easily and checked. (though I havent tried that with the engine in!) see if there is space.

 

Hi Ken
That will give you peace of mind, the manual advises that you also replace the bearings and seals in the waterpump while your in there its not a particularly difficult or expensive adition to front cover work.
Alastair