2v Accel 7914 plug wires | FerrariChat

2v Accel 7914 plug wires

Discussion in '308/328' started by PittsS2APilot, Oct 18, 2009.

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  1. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
    Full Name:
    Joe
    #1 PittsS2APilot, Oct 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Today I got around to installing the Accel 7914 wire set discussed in earlier threads. To recap, this wire set will eliminate the need for the plug extenders and the rubber boots at the head. But you will need to shorten the plug end of the wire using a lathe. I didn't get a pic of them before cutting them down but I'm pretty sure there is a pic in the thread from a couple of months ago showing them before modification. You only get 4 wires per set so I used my previous wire to the coil. THe 7914 wires are cut pretty close to what is needed but keep every bit you can save during the modification, you'll need it. I only installed the rear bank for starters to make sure everything fit and functioned. The local auto parts store quoted me $89 per set but I got them on ebay for $24 per set. I also to the time took clean the dist cap brass, set screw pins and rotor. The 8mm wires slide into the dist cap nice and snug. A little lube makes them go in very easy. Just make sure they are all the way in before setting the screw. I had already planned on leaving off the distributor rubber cover but I don't think you could use it with these wires anyway. You'd need another 2-4 inches per wire for the cover. I started the car and everything seems normal. I will do a test run tomorrow and if everything seems OK I will do the front bank. This was done on a 1980 GTBi 2V so measurements may be slightly different with other engines.
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  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    #2 Steve Magnusson, Oct 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Your wire routing and wire length issues would be improved if your distributor cap orientation matched the orientation shown in your OM. I don't know the details of you distributor rotor-to-cam mounting, but if you could shift both the cap and rotor by 120 degrees to match the OM, it would make for a cleaner installation. Have you ever really checked that when the crankshaft is in the position to fire cyl #1, the rotor end is really lined up well with the contact inside the cap holding the #1 spark plug wire? If the cap was shifted by 120 degrees, and the wires in the cap were shuffled by 90 deg, the rotor-to-contact misalignment would be reduced to 30 degs, and it might work OKish, but it wouldn't be best.
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  3. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    Yep, I noticed that but the car runs great and I didn't want to mess anything up.
     
  4. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
    2,198
    Seattle, Washington
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    Looks like a super nice job there Joe! Way to go. Think I might try some of those next time I'm replacing plug wires (I have a lathe).

    What do the f-chat experts say about the resistance as measured on these wires? In the right range for a 308?

    Thanks.
     
  5. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    Test drove the car today and performance was good. About the only thing noticed was at idol is seemed a little smoother. I'll do the front bank with the new wires and plugs tomorrow to finish the project.
     
  6. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    #6 PittsS2APilot, Oct 20, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    After the test run I was looking things over. The Ferrari factory runs the plug wires at the top of the head so that's what I was trying to do with the Accel wires. After looking things over I decided to run them lower like I see on the QV's. I found running them under the distributor gives you extra length and makes for a cleaner looking install. Ive got some cheap plastic wire separators for the trial but I can already tell this is the way to go. I have the smog pump removed so you have to be cautious of the spinning pulley rubbing the wire. For the time being I've got the plug wires tied up with a wire tie away from the pulley. Tomorrow I'll do the front bank and clean things up with better quality hardware for wire separation and build a shield for the pulley.
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  7. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
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    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    Looks good!


    They're a bugger to push on aren't they...theyt sure look good though. :)
     
  8. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    #8 PittsS2APilot, Oct 20, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Today I picked up a wire loom from the local speed shop, made some minor modifications, shot some silver paint and installed it on the rear bank. I pulled the front distributor and installed the new plug wires with new plugs the same as the rear bank. I found these plug wires require about the same level of difficulty as the standard plug wires and plugs I installed two years ago. You will need access to a small metal lathe to cut down the plug wire shafts. But the way I see it, this eliminates the need for the spark plug extenders (one less thing to go wrong)and the rubber boots on each wire at the head. All toll I put around 8 hours and $75 in the project. Anybody needing 8 plug extenders give me a PM with an offer. With new plugs, plug wires, cleaned rotor and distributor contacts, she runs silky smoooooooooooth!
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  9. Consejero

    Consejero Karting

    Mar 15, 2004
    68
    Dallas, Texas
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    James R. Consejero
    I know its an old thread but it looks super clean, I may have a problem with wire length however since my caps are gone and all the wires need to go directly to the coils. I'll have to look at some other wire types I guess. Where did you buy that wire loom setup u mentioned?
     
  10. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
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    Dec 13, 2010
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    Steve
    Unfortunatly the caps are can not be rotated or reorientated. On i cars the rotor mounts directly to the end plug on the camshaft. The base has two alignment dowel that goes on only one way and the cap has its own alignment pin so they go together only one way.
     
  11. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    Thanks for the note. The 308i-2V SPC figure seems to better match the orientation of the OP's 1-4 distributor -- that (incorrect) 308i-2V OM figure must be a holdover from the carbed 308 OM.
     
  12. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    #12 PittsS2APilot, Mar 27, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2012
    Yeah...this thread is a blast from the past but Im still running them with no problems. And I still have the old extenders in a bag on the shelf. The length of the wire you get in this set works just fine as long as you dont start cutting away during the modification of the extenders. I have the 2v so I could not turn my dist caps for help but as long as you take your time and work on the wire route you're ok without the wires in a bind. If you cut and turn down the extenders the proper length they fit into the head real well and make a good seal at the top. Just remember even an 1/8" will make a difference. I tried to show the measurements as close as possible in the photos. As far as the wireloom.... I went to one of the local race shops and found this wireloom hanging on the wall. I had to do some minor modification to it so it fit properly. Dont recall who made it but Im sure there are similar ones at any auto parts place. It was red when I got it so I painted it a high heat metalic silver. Since doing this mod, I replace the red coil wire with another yellow to match the set. If you wanted to buy a roll of bulk 8mm wire I dont see why you cant disassemble the wire set and use the parts for a custom job. As I recall everthing is just crimped on so you should be able to disassemble the wire from the connectors. During re-assembly I used some clear RTV when putting the extenders back together for some added help. Just a thought.
     
  13. waymar

    waymar Formula 3

    Sep 2, 2008
    1,354
    Northeast, PA - USA
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    Wayne Martin
    Has anyone looked into the differance between Accel 7912 7913 7914 wire sets for boot fitment and length fitment? The Y R B suffix is color only according to the web-site..... all sets are 8mm - may be there is a longer set of wires with the same boots......
     
  14. hanknum

    hanknum Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
    2,050
    Santa Barbara
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    Henry
    That's a nice setup. I used to run the Accel wires on mine with an Electromotive system. I'll check this out next time I do the wires.
     
  15. chris_columbia

    chris_columbia Formula Junior
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    #15 chris_columbia, Apr 3, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Didn't work on QV. I bought a set to try. The hole cover is too small. It makes a nice seal on the inside of the hole, but not sure I'd trust it in the rain. Need to go to junkyard and see if any cars have bigger hole cover.
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  16. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    Mine is a 2v and they fit perfect. I guess the QV plug hole is different?
     
  17. Speed78

    Speed78 Karting

    Mar 26, 2007
    72
    Marysville, WA
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    Gary
    I replaced one distributor because of a crack. I have red Taylor 8mm wires and I really had a hard time getting them into the distributor. So have not done the 2nd one. You mentioned that you used a lubricate to get them in, what kind was that?

    Any thoughts on how to do something like this without access to a lathe?
     
  18. twright

    twright Karting

    May 15, 2005
    225
    Indianapolis USA
    I have bought the Accel 7914 wires and am preparing for this job. I have looked at the wires and it looks like you don't really need a lathe for this. It looks like you can just shorten the tubes and not have to cut down on the diameter of the end. Has anybody tried this?

    I will be trying it soon. Stay tuned for further details.
     
  19. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
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    Ahwatukee, AZ
    Joe, this is off topic but every time you provide any pictures you should include one of your beautiful white/red B :)
     
  20. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
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    Joe
    #20 PittsS2APilot, Apr 11, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Unless Accel has changed the design, the boots will not fit correctly at the end you cut off without turning the down.
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  21. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

    Jul 16, 2011
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    I have used a drill in a vice and the drill press to turn small things.
     
  22. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    That is a great color on those.
     
  23. Speed78

    Speed78 Karting

    Mar 26, 2007
    72
    Marysville, WA
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    Gary
    Bought two sets on Amazon for under $19.00 a set. Will try the drill as a lathe and cut them down that way.

    The issue I am concerned about is getting the 8mm wire into the Cap. What type of lubricate did you use? It doesn't just slide in there as they are designed for 7mm wires. Struggled with this in the passed as I will be replacing 8mm red wires by Taylor which are a bear to get into the cap.

    Thanks,
     
  24. PittsS2APilot

    PittsS2APilot Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2007
    857
    Gulfport MS
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    Joe
    I put just a touch of light oil on the first couple of wires but found I could push them in pretty easy without the oil. They were snug but the 8mm wire would go in ok. As far as I know I have stock caps but I guess someone "could have" drilled them out to a slightly larger size before I got the car? To be honest I dont think the drill as a lathe is going to work on this project. Just one slip and you've ruined one of them. Im sure some hobbiest in your area has a small lathe. Just my suggestion.
     

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