Dino DIY - Replacing the starter with a Gear Reduction unit

After talking to OMGjon at Bella Italia 2 years ago and hearing him rave about how the gear reduction starters were the single best improvement that could be made to a Dino, I decided to get one. While my original unit has been fine and never even whinced at starting, I wanted to install it in my Euro version Dino GTS #05082. I know of only one place to buy them and that is from Martin at:
http://www.ferraristarters.com/

The first thing to do is shut off the main power to the system. My Euro Dino came with a battery cutoff switch up front by the rdiator. Turn it off to isolate the battery from the electrical system.
Next, gain access to the area by opening the trunk, unfastening the carpet and removing the trunk firewall panel.
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Once the rear firewall panel is unfastened it will still be retained by the emergency cable pull. Don't cut that cable, but gently move the whole panel to the side to allow access to the area where the headers and starter are. Unfasten the larger exterior heat shield and remove it.
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Get under the Dino and unfasten the three bolts where the header collector meets the exhaust. This will free the bottom and needs to be done before you address the next step, the manifold nuts.
You may need to jack the Dino up to do this.
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Unfasten the six nuts which retain the exhaust manifold onto the heads. Next, unfasten the starter heat shield (left side) and remove it. The exhaust manifold should be free to move but I found that the size of the heat shield above the planetary gear set (on the right) made it impossible to remove the manifold.
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The Gearset heatshield has only two fasteners but it is a blind operation because it is on the backside and you have to reach around to unfasten them. It is a bit difficult to get to. Have patience and watch your back as both fasteners are a long way back there as you reach around. Unfasten them and pull the heat shield out. This allows the exhaust manifold to be free. Remove the exhaust manifold from the Dino
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With the manifold out of the way, the Marelli starter will be fully exposed for you to access. Undo the two electrical securing fasteners and remove the electrical connections attached to the starter.
The exhaust manifold gaskets are also accessible, this is also a good time to remove them for replacement.


Note: My Euro Dino has an MSD Ignition installed and there are two extra wires in this photo that are not be in the standard wiring diagram. The red wire is power and the blue wire is ground as seen coming from the right.
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There are two bolts that retain the starter to the mounting, unfasten and remove them.
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The starter should be free to move but may need a gentle release with a wedge. There is not enough space to remove the starter so you'll need to gain access by removing the cover plate. Unfasten the two cover plate bolts using a 13mm socket and extract the cover plate.
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There is still an obstruction preventing the starter from being removed, the lower 8mm stud needs to be removed. Double nut jam the stud and remove.

The Ferrari designers must have known that the original Marelli starter would not be able to be removed easily as the designed a flat space in the casting of the planetary gearcase's third fin that just barely allows extraction of the starter.


*** NOTE: More studs may need to be removed on your Dino ***
This is a Euro car and USA version Dinos have longer exhaust manifold studs
that accomodate the emissions air injection system.
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Here's a photo of te old and new, side by side.
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Clean up the area and take a brush to to the electrical contacts so that you'll get the best possible conductivity. I like to use Wurth OL electrical cleaner and contact finisher. It cleans the surfaces and leaves a protective electrical coating.
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Re-connect the two electrical connections, ensure they are sound and use the boots provided. I like to use shrink wrap tubing or electrical tape depending on size as it insulates these important electrical surfaces from accidental shorting.

Mount the unit on the gearhousing and secure. I found the new unit had too tight of a fit on the top bolt to accomodate the standard washer so I used a Nylock. Reinstall the cover plate and the installation should be ready.

I like to power on the circuits and test the unit at this point. Pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the ignition to ensure the starter gears properly engage the flywheel. Re-install the remaining items in the reverse order they were removed.

Enjoy your new starter!
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Great job and great photos, Scott!! But, what's the verdict? Did it work?

Mark

 

I replaced my factory starter with a gear reduction starter, and it's the best thing since sliced bread!

I am now refreshing my engine bay and hoses on my other Dino, and while I'm there I am replacing its starter as well.

Jim S.

 

Jim -

Same source as Scott's?

Mark

 

Scott,

As usual your tutorials are outstanding!

Thanks for taking time to make these!

 

Got mine through Tom C.

Gustafson Machine Shop 44 Whitmore St, Gloucester , Ma 01930

Great product.

Jim S.

 

Verdict?

On advice of my legal counsel they told me to claim it works peachy keen...but it has a much different sound.

Finished off the wire bundle with a fiberglass heat insulation loom bundle and tie wraps to keep it tight.
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Just bumping this old starter thread (minor pun intended) to get some feedback. I just installed one of the little gear reduction units in the Dino and it is really sweet. However, in the US version cars the air injector manifolds cause the exhaust header to sit very close to this starter motor. When I install the stock heat shield there is zero clearance, resulting in the aluminum shield touching both the header and the starter motor case. Now, rather than shielding the starter from radiant heat from the header, the shield will actually conduct heat directly to the starter case. At this point I am considering either replacing the stock heat shield with a new, thinner aluminum piece or deleting the metal shield entirely and wrapping the new starter in one of the new reflective starter blankets. Any thoughts?

 

Yes Scott great DIY. Unfortunately my early M does not have the access panel so all the work is done from under the car. Had the new started installed a few years ago. It must draw less current because the car starts up much better (more current left for the ignition?).

Cheers

Pietro

 

Apart from the BSM ignition this was the only other mod i have made to my car and i would NEVER go back to the Marelli C**P unit!

 

Just listening to the sound of the original Marelli makes one wonder if it has enough ummph to crank. It's a relief when it does, but I sometimes wonder how long before it balks.

It was a very clear tutorial on how to make the upgrade. Much appreciated Synchro. After reviewing the process it reminds me of one of the reasons I like the Boxer.

And thanks for finding this thread.

 

Best and only mod i have made. It just starts the car for you.

 

Did the sound take some time to get used too? The first few weeks after mine, it was one of those "different tones" that my ear noticed was different about the car
but now I'm used to it.

 

Update - just spent two days assisting a stranded Dino visitor to the area with his previously installed, brand new, gear reduction starter which failed (under 10 hours on it). His unit does not look like mine which leads me to believe there is more than one source for these.

Took it to a local specialist who found the plunger tolerance interferring with the surroundng causing the jam. He claimed the manufacturer used motor, casing & solenoid parts from different off the shelf Japanses models

I bought mine at
http://www.ferraristarters.com/Dino.html
removed the heat shield and and have not ever had a problem. Car has definitely been thoroughly heat soaked in 100+ temps through 6 hours in the San Joaquin valley and driven over 15,000 kM since install.