What to look for in E Type? | FerrariChat

What to look for in E Type?

Discussion in 'British' started by SFchallenge, Jun 6, 2012.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. SFchallenge

    SFchallenge F1 World Champ

    Jun 28, 2004
    11,945
    Sgp, KL, HK & London
    Full Name:
    Jon Wijaya
    Hi guys, would love to hear some input from you. I'm looking to get an E type but unsure what to go for. Prices have hit the roof or rather went through in some cases!

    I've found a clean looking '69 S2 4.2 roadster with 100K miles (restored 10yrs ago) & it's affordable @ US$65K in UK now. I was even thinking of getting a coupe or the V12 but even those have become very expensive now.

    Now, are there anything that we should look out for on these cars? What sort of upgrades should we be looking @ to make it a daily? Thanks.
     
  2. f308jack

    f308jack F1 Rookie

    Jun 7, 2007
    4,300
    Cape Town, South Afr
    Full Name:
    Jack Verschuur
    Jon,

    E-Types form a rather big family, incorporating many, many changes over the long production-span.

    The first 2 things to check are rust and frame-damage, both of which are expensive and laborous to remedy..

    A S2 would probably make the easiest-to-live-with daily driver: lots of torque from the 4.2, reasonable brakes (easy upgradeable).

    There are upgrades for suspension and wheels (up to 7" wide), as well as anything else you'd want to upgrade, a good guide is to see what Eagle does to their E's.

    The V-12 is a fantastic car if you can live with the maintenance and fuel-thirst, but there is a world between that and the first 3.8. A V-12 with manual box and some slight engine mods is a seriously fast machine.

    Best is to go drive some different variants, and have a closer look at aesthetics to see what pleases you most. Find a balance in what you conclude, then go look at the best example you can afford to buy; it'll be the cheapest in the long run.

    Happy hunting!
     
  3. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

    Dec 29, 2006
    18,221
    Twin Cities
    Full Name:
    Tim Keseluk
    Look for rust. All the usual places of course and I've seen it in the front tubular subframes particularly down low.
     
  4. Arvin Grajau

    Arvin Grajau Seven Time F1 World Champ

    Jun 7, 2006
    78,326
    Wurundjeri man.
    Full Name:
    Arvin Grajau
    #4 Arvin Grajau, Jun 6, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. SFchallenge

    SFchallenge F1 World Champ

    Jun 28, 2004
    11,945
    Sgp, KL, HK & London
    Full Name:
    Jon Wijaya
    Thanks guys. The problem is I'm looking @ them from 6K miles away so have to rely on the words & pics of dealers. I really like to S1 but set my heart on roadsters so S2 is more affordable @ the moment & I need RHD for my country. Some cars have gone well over US$100K :eek:

    Is the hardtop still made by 3rd party? Even a modern lighter, fibre might do. Can we add the light covers for S2 to prevent chips?

    Will check out the eagle site & their speedster is amazing!
     
  6. SFchallenge

    SFchallenge F1 World Champ

    Jun 28, 2004
    11,945
    Sgp, KL, HK & London
    Full Name:
    Jon Wijaya
    #6 SFchallenge, Jun 7, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. jagmanv12

    jagmanv12 Karting

    Aug 25, 2010
    236
    Surrey UK
    Full Name:
    Mark
    Be careful relying on pictures as they can be deceptive. I'd recommend you get an independent inspection. I'm a founder of the JEC so can give you some contacts if you need them. Also I've had a few S2s over the years. If the red one is near London I'd be happy to have a look at it. I need to give my V12E a run.:)

    From the chassis number you need to check if a car is a LHD conversion as some were not done well and are worth less.

    I don't know of anybody making the hardtop. There is a company making light covers for S3 so they may make them for S2s as well.

    I know of a green with tan roadster that will be for sale soon if you're OK with that colour.
     
  8. f308jack

    f308jack F1 Rookie

    Jun 7, 2007
    4,300
    Cape Town, South Afr
    Full Name:
    Jack Verschuur
    I'd be very cautious going to look at an E, the previous owner of which turned it into a Testa Rossa. The red cylinder-head could be a telltale. Of course, it's easilly corrected, together with the finish of the exhaust manifolds and the incorrect steering wheel. Spending a lot of money is no guarantee for quality.

    Mark's offer to go check a car out is very kind, and the JEC is a vast club; wherever you find a car in the UK, there should be someone who knows these near.

    Green/tan is just about the best combo on these (save gunmetal/tan or gunmetal/red), but that's my opinion...
     
  9. Arvin Grajau

    Arvin Grajau Seven Time F1 World Champ

    Jun 7, 2006
    78,326
    Wurundjeri man.
    Full Name:
    Arvin Grajau
    make sure its a RHD and not a lhd conversion,the roofs are still made and are not expensive.
     
  10. Arvin Grajau

    Arvin Grajau Seven Time F1 World Champ

    Jun 7, 2006
    78,326
    Wurundjeri man.
    Full Name:
    Arvin Grajau
    best way to check an e-type for rust,photos of the tyre well area and underneath the car.
    That looks a rough car IMO.
     
  11. SFchallenge

    SFchallenge F1 World Champ

    Jun 28, 2004
    11,945
    Sgp, KL, HK & London
    Full Name:
    Jon Wijaya
    Hi Mark,
    That's very kind of you! This car is unfortunately with a dealer in Kent. Here it is:
    http://www.classicdriver.de/uk/find/4100_results.asp?lCarID=1851662

    It's registered in Germany but the seller claims that it's an orig. RHD with heritage cert.

    I saw a green/tan here:
    http://www.arunltd.com/arunLtd/awp/viewdetails.asp?id=2019#&panel2-1&panel1-2

    Not exactly a colour that ticks me but surely a repaint wouldn't hurt too much?

    But it's £10K more than the red one above. I would much prefer one that's ready to use than a project though.
     
  12. jagmanv12

    jagmanv12 Karting

    Aug 25, 2010
    236
    Surrey UK
    Full Name:
    Mark
    Hi Jon,

    Shame I didn't know earlier as I was about 10 miles from that dealer on Monday. I'll be near there but not until the end of the month. Anyway a friend who is a JEC member and E type specialist is not far from there. I'll pm you his details.

    The red car is a rhd original. From the photo it looks as though the chassis number is 1R1368 and S2s start at 1R1001. LHD start at 1R7001.

    The green car I mentioned is the darker British racing green.

    That pale (willow) green is fairly rare. Changing the colour would probably make it more desirable but to do it properly is a lot of work. Engine frames, bulkhead, door shuts, inside the boot all need painting.
     
  13. rdefabri

    rdefabri Three Time F1 World Champ

    Jun 4, 2008
    33,571
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Rich
    Look for rust in the unibody under passenger and driver compartments. Test drive the car - any sort of or nervousness could be indication of front subframe issues. If there IS a problem or rust in there, the whole thing really needs to be replaced (although some weld them - it's not recommended).

    Bonnet is prone to misalignment - common, and a pain...but more cosmetic (unless there's damage to the subframe. Also doors - make sure they close and line up (sign of unibody damage).

    If I were looking, I'd get a S2 FHC - absolute bargain. Second choice would be S1 FHC (which I own) simply because it's all the experience with out the OT. I was never enamored with the OTS as much as the FHC anyway.
     
  14. Edward 96GTS

    Edward 96GTS F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2003
    11,099
    That red car looks awful.
    I have a s2 roadster. Headlight covers not worth the big expense. Hardtops are a pain. You will leave it off.
    In this market, I would look for a s1 fhc. Very pretty and pure. Try to find an older restoration that was done to show winning standards and scored well at shows or restored by a jag specialist. These cars are botched by restorers more than any other car I can think of.
    Ed
     
  15. Pranucci

    Pranucci Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 17, 2005
    1,134
    Carpinteria, CA
    Rust is #1. Look at the sills and everywhere there is metal. I had an "original" California car and both sills were rusted. Lots of sheet metal boxes that love to rust. When mine was taken down to metal they found it'd been hit in front of the door. Truth be told there are lots out there, if you can't look it over yourself, you must have a specialist check it out for you.
     

Share This Page