20 year down time mandatory punch list

This 1983 308 GTS I'm going to see that's for sale has not been driven for over 20 years. What are the mandatory repair costs to add to whatever becomes the purchase cost, not even taking into account anything found during a PPI? Car has 34,000 miles showing, is not running and has no battery in it to check anything. I figure the following items as a minimum would be done. But let me know what costs to attach to them! And anything you feel hold also be added here, to bring the car up to a clean nice driver.
Change all fluids - $
Battery - $
Timing Belts -$
Brake pads - $
Tires - $
Detailing int and ext - $

 

I'd expect it to also need new hoses throughout (fuel/coolant), possibly fuel tank repairs, suspension bushes, and brake caliper and carb rebuilds.

You will probably find a lot of oil leaks too, as the seals tend to shrink.

 

Thanks. I'll add these to the list. No carbs on the QV though. It's FI.

 

a/c will be shot - may as well convert it

As an aside if you already have one and read this site regularly wouldn't you have a good idea of all these costs anyway ?

 

I bought an excellent 308 that had been driven sparingly over the past several years. It "just needed a major service". Hey, this is my first Ferrari- how hard can that be?

My direct parts and supplies costs, doing it all myself (except wheel alignment and tire mounting) was almost $5,000.00. And I shopped for the best prices on parts, too. But now my Ferrari is exactly as I want it (except the passenger side window is partially inoperative).

If you spend less than $5,000, just in parts, to bring the 20 year storage car up to snuff, then you've overlooked something.

Here's a thread about my experience:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354676

So did the seller ever start responding?

Good luck!

Jeff

 

When an engine was not run for the last 20 years it could be damaged. Most probably you will find corrosion on the cam shafts and crankshaft due to missing lubricating protective oil film – If you try to start the engine you will damage the cam bearings. The roller and the ball bearings can be corroded as well, including gearbox.
The valve seats can be corroded and need to be reworked.
Water pump seal defect and corrosion on the housing, corrosion on the cooling manifolds
Corrosion inside (leaking) cooling system expansion tank


I would highly recommend you to disassemble the engine and the gearbox for a deep inspection before to turning the ignition key to on

 

Entire FI system rebuilt and parts replaced. FD and all metal lines cleaned and rebuilt as necessary, all plastic and "rubber" hoses replaced, fuel pump, accumulator, injectors and bushings replaced, fuel tanks cleaned.

Several $K in shipping, parts and labor, E-A-S-Y.

 

Send the window mechanisms to a materials testing lab, I wonder what Rockwell hardness the grease is after 20 years!

 

You will need some sort of front license plate bracket...


Best of luck with your (possible) project!

 

I have some idea but I get a range of costs told to me. I'll have to search through the threads for specifics I guess. So far I've done all the "heavy lifting" on my car myself.

 

Not just brake pads, but perhaps rotors, stuck calipers needing rebuild or new, and seals in MC faulty.

Also, you don't have to convert from r12 to r134.

 

I'd say that you never really know for sure. I had a 66 Jaguar Mark2 that sat for nearly that long. Drained the gas, refilled, charged the battery, and I've been driving it summers for the last 5 years.

 

20 years not running? Look for bird nests and other critters living in it!

Why would the brake pads need replacing?

 

Get a borescope from an auto parts store and peek around (pull a few plugs, oil cap, look inside bell housing). Suspension bushing are shot no doubt. It will need Birdman fuse blocks too.

 

Remove the plugs and divide a can of Marvels mystery oil into each cylinder and let it soak for at least a day then see if the cranshaft will move using a socket and ratchet. The fuel pump, check valve and accumulator may need to be replaced they will rust internally. Shift shaft seal may leak. I would guess it will need a new battery, naw it wil be okay.