help me find a ferrari 360 engine

unluckily for me my header died and some pieces went into my engine and took one of my picton heads and damaged my head

looking for replacement parts

 

I'd buy a wrecked one and sell off the rest after you extract motor.

 

Can you provide more information on the specific failure? Pictures?

There is a 360 engine on a stand new and ready to bolt in on ebay (often) but getting one from a dismantler would be cheaper. I will note that because of the extrame expense of a "new" or even "used" engine, if you have a damaged piston+head, repairing will likely be cheaper.

The piston and head are very strong, thus I would be interested in getting more information on the failure with images, etc.

 

As Trent has said, if there's no bore damage it'd be cheaper to change out the piston and fit one used head. I have a trashed engine with one good head, which bank do you need?

 

Please fill out some profile so we know who and where you are, it does help.

Most of the one's that have been here were rebuildable with a piston/rod, rod bearings and a valve job. the heads are sometimes OK and can be rebuilt and reused. If not a good used head is available, hopefully Eddie's is the correct side for you. Have you checked both sides? Debris can and will pass across the intake manifold. While there you must check the oil cooler integrity.

Any used engine will need a refresh before install, belts, variators, cooler etc., etc..

 

OP appears to be somewhere in British Columbia Canada

 

www.specializeditalianrecycling.com they always have used part for Ferrari and Maserati . Prices are ok most of the time. I have bought a maserati f1 pump and oem wheels from them. Hope that helps.

 

sorry for the late reply

it seems like the passenger side pre-cat manifold failed and some pieces were sucked in by the engine
luckily, only 1 piston head was damaged and the head

here are some pictures, sorry for the bad quality

yes i am in bc
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1. I dont see any piston or head damage from the images. Can you elaborate?

2. I do see the valves open, I would assume the cams were out (cant see from the pics). If the cams are out and the valves are open then I would assume they are bent, which is valve damage. But the next Cyl looks like the exhaust valves are open so maybe the cams are still installed. Can you tell us if the cams are installed or not?

3. With the cams out all valves should seat. If the cams are installed the valves could be in this state based on the piston positions. Likely TDC Cyl 1.

4. The only thing I can see is that the foreign material cleaned the carbon off of the head, valves, and piston crown.

5. If you have a bent valve, replace the valve, valve guide, and reseat the valve. Dont replace the head. Now if you have ~10 bent valves (for instance) and a new head is cheaper than parts + labor for valve replacements, then replace the head if it is bolt on ready.

6. What do the sleeves (liner) look like?

7. Before tear down what was the compression and leak-down test result?

Thank you for posting the pics and discussing your issue on the forum.

 

I am also having trouble seeing the damage. Since you have gone this far, you may want to slide out the affected piston(s) and look for foreign material on top of the upper piston ring and clean things up. If you clean everything up and damage is limited to some small dings on top of the piston and the head, I would put it all back together (new main bearings, head gasket, etc) and run it.

 

I disagree, there are several "shiny spots" across 3 of the crowns looking at those pics, and some of the valves look fairly offset versus valve seat position, but again, that could be down to picture quality and my age-related vision failures! I'll take a look at my damaged engine parts and confirm which side is available, although I'm sure you will find one more available geographically.

 

+1 - there are some pieces missing from one of the valves and the middle looks like its bent in relation to the other two.

 

If valves are bent and broken, there was a lot of force involved. You would then start to question condition of the connecting rod, crank, bearings, cam, piston integrity, etc. Careful measurement and inspection will be required. If you are looking at replacing multiple components, you may be better off buying a used motor. I would personally install a used motor if I could find one at a reasonable price and drive the car. I would then rebuild the original motor as a project. If the original motor gets rebuilt, you can always resell the replacement motor you bought.

 

I have a set of heads and some good pistons and rods.
Let me know.

 

Cylinder 3 (you can tell as the gold coloured oil pipe is visible) looks like the piston crown and corresponding cylinder head area looks smashed to hell.

 

If you priced up a used motor you would quickly see that this is the least economically viable route possible....

 

I have not looked in a long time. I was making an assumption that you could pick one up for less than 10K.

 

Fair enough, but even at 7k, add fluids belts, clutch and swap labour, and the loss of value then you'd be far better off fixing that motor unless it had a rod poking out of the side....

 

I looked on eBay and the least expensive complete engine was 14K OBO with 10K miles. Not cheap, but may still be the most economical route unless parts for rebuild can be sourced at a reasonable price, such as from other FChatters.

My experience is that it takes months to rebuild an engine due to the amount of time it takes to determine needed parts, locate new parts and ship/receive components to/from different shops for machine work.

 

I did make the assumption that I would do a significant portion of the work myself, such as installing the replacement motor. I did not assume depreciation of the value of the car for a replacement motor, although there will be some.

 

It would take 20 hours labour to remove the suspect pistons, check rod integrity, replace damage components and replace the l/h head with a good used unit. Certainly not months...

 

I am currently looking for a 360. I would like to purchase one in the next 6 months. What I have learned from this thread and others like it is that I need to remove the pre-cats as soon as I purchase one. I live in SC and there are no inspections so there would not be an issue with passing emissions each year.

 

Oh, ok.. Yes if you were to do the work yourself then it's a different ball game with labor figures, I was just sumising relating to specialist labor costs!!

 

I agree that you can take the engine apart in 20 hours and perform a basic inspection and possibly even reassemble if all major parts are good once you have all the materials (new head, bearings, gaskets, etc). If you do not have to send any parts off to a machine shop, such as the block and crank, to get checked and you can quickly source parts, you may be able to do a basic rebuild in less than two weeks. Things seem to always come up. For example, if you are not comfortable reusing the connecting rod on the affected piston, you will need to find a matching replacement. I would then remove all of the connecting rods from the pistons and balance them all to make sure the "matching" piston matches. If it was an old Chevy V8 that you are only going to rev to 4k rpm, the piston probably doesn't even need to be the same type! For an expensive Ferrari engine that I could spin to 8k rpm, I would make sure everything was exact. All of these things take time.