tr accelerating issue

Hi everybody,

a friend of mine as a tr with ke jetronic, i has rebuild the engine.

When he starts it, i run well at idle but when he accelerate the engine dies.

When he move the fuel distributor with hand no problem the engine accelerates normaly.

Can you give me some advice, knowing that it's an european version.

Thanks in advance

 

hi Hugo,

Can you introduce yoursef first please ?

F.i. where do you live (I live in Holland) ..and something more about the car, Year etc ... ?

 

Hi Mel,

i'm not new on the f chat, i think i introduced myself some time ago.

I'm living in Belgium .

it's not for my car, my tr run perfectly, it has a k jetronic.

It's for my friend, his tr is a "mk2" with 5 holes wheels and ke jetronic he sais me, i think 1989 .

Hugo

 

Thanx Hugo ... Do you own a Testarsossa or another F ?

 

When you say "move the fuel distributor by hand".....what part of the fuel system is he moving? The throttle linkage?

 

Sounds like the car free revs quite okay, but when actually driving and under load it runs poorly. Probably down on one bank. Look to the coils.

 

When he moves the two plates on the intake manifolds by hand the engine acceterate.

Sorry for my english, in french it's "plateau sonde".

The fuel pressure is good .

 

What "plates" is he pushing? Is the large horizontal air metering plates - this would require that the air filter housing be removed? Or is he pushing on the lever that actuates the throttle plates - which are located inside the housings just under each upper intake plenum?

 

he is pushing the large horizontal metering plate after removing the air filter

 

If it is a F113B engine (KE-Jet without Lambda) and since you indicate that adding more fuel by manually depressing the airflow metering plates seem to be very beneficial, I would first test for the +12V power from the protection relay to run the KE injection system. If this +12V is lost, the system (both banks) runs lean -- just a suggestion...
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Thank you Steve , he has found, in fact the fuse on the protection relay was blown.

When he changes it , it blow immediatly.

So he found that the bimetalic thermoswitch is in short circuit.

he'll change it.

Hugo

 

Yes, having that 10A fuse blown on the protection relay is a serious issue that must be corrected for proper operation of KE-Jet, but the problem may not be the water thermoswitch -- it is supposed to be closed (i.e., the two terminals are connected together) when cold (and open when warm). I realize that we might have some minor communication difficulties (which I blame only on myself for being limited to English) so please bear with me.

If the resistance from either terminal (with no wires attached) of the water thermoswitch to the brass body of the water thermoswitch is low (like less than 1000 Ohms) = that's bad, and the water thermoswitch must be replaced (and you can probably then ignore the rest of my post, and he should buy a new water thermoswitch).

However, if this is not the case (i.e., the resistance between the two terminals, with no wires attached, of the water thermoswitch is low when cold, but the resistance from each terminal, with no wire attached, to the brass body of the water thermoswitch is infinite Ohms), there are some further tests you should do before deciding what components to replace:

1. First, install a new 10A fuse in the protection relay.

2. Unplug the CN (orange-black) wire from the water thermoswitch (but leave the red wire attached to the water thermoswitch). Start the engine and see if the 10A fuse blows again:

If the fuse blows again -- measure the voltage (both DC and AC) between the battery terminals of the battery while the engine is running at say 2000 RPM (even with the fuse blown and if you have to push down on the airflow metering plates to achieve that RPM). If the battery voltage is high (like more than 15V DC or more than ~0.3V AC), you have a bad alternator and the protection relay is doing what it should be doing -- the protection relay "protects" the injection ECUs from a bad alternator output. And the next step would be to get the alternator checked/fixed.

If the fuse does not blow -- give a shout back and I'll look further at the F113B schematic.

It would be a much easier, and less expensive, fix if the water thermoswitch is bad (and shorted to ground), but I'd put a higher probabilty on the alternator being bad so wanted to pass on these further tests since I am not 100% clear on what you mean technically by "the bimetalic thermoswitch is in short circuit".

But please let us know if it is truly a bad water thermoswitch shorted to body ground or a bad alternator.

 

Steve,

thanks for your advice, my friend says, there were a short circuit because some smoke appears at the switch.

I'll let you know as soon as he change the switch, if it's good.