Leaky Gas Tank...darn!

The car has to be a long way in the air as the tank gets lowered almost straight down before it clears the diff and can be angled. Yes, I have taken mine out with just jack stands, but it was a PITA.
See:
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari/fuel_tank.htm
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari/fuel_tank_continued.htm
for some pictures.

 

For what it's worth, I had to repair gas tanks on 1961 Rolls Royce siver Cloud II, a 1965 Aston Martin DB5, a 1971 365 GTB/4, and a 1971 IM5. The common thread is... Take your time and do it right ... and ONLY USE the LIQUID EPOXY TYPE REPAIR KIT NOT the kneaded roll.
Of all the above only the Daytona tank came out surprisingly easily and went back in as well.
Bill Hirsch offers a gas tank etch/sealer kit that uses muritic acid first to get rid of crud and rust inside the tank followed by and epoxy coating that needs to be sloshed around to coat the innards. I found Bill Hirsch products in "Hemmings Motor News".
If the tank must come out... might as well make sure the job gets done right the first time.
The best choice is to replace said tank with a new one. Rotsa Ruck on that for an old Ferrari.
One of my car Buddies bought a 1959 Healey 3000 that had been sitting for eleven years. After vain attempts to flush all the varnish out, he opted to replace the tank. Good deal if you can find one. Healeys are a dime a dozen compared to old Ferraris, Rollers, Astons, and Intermeccanicas and can almost be built from a catlaog.
Always opt for safety and make sure to observe that the tank is COMPLETELY dry inside and out after water rinsing and flushing. I rigged a leaf blower to the inlet and let it blow for hours. The fuel guage sender must be removed as well.
I hope you are tolerant of gasoline showers.
Best of luck.

 

Good luck to you. Only you will do the job the right way because you care about the car. Most shops can't be bothered with the time it will take to let the epoxy cure, not to mention removal and reinstallation and proper adjustment. You might find your chassis number on the tank, so be careful not to obliterate it.

 

I may be wrong, but I'll assume the 2+2 has a steel tank. The factory's way of making them leak-free was solder, as seen here. Why not just re-solder?

john
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