355 ssuspension rebuild - DIY attempt | Page 3 | FerrariChat

355 ssuspension rebuild - DIY attempt

Discussion in '348/355' started by J. Salmon, Nov 19, 2012.

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  1. 601

    601 Karting

    Dec 19, 2010
    223
    California
    The following thread should have the data you're looking for:

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259974
     
  2. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

    Aug 17, 2008
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    #52 m5guy, Nov 30, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
    Thanks, but that data is what I already have to support my claim that the dynamic spring rate is roughly 425 lbs/inch.

    In Mitch's thread (see link), 4071 Newtons (912 pounds) moves the front spring 54.5mm (2.15 inches) from static to full bump. That comes out to a spring rate of 424 lbs/inch. The 180 lbs/inch cited earlier by someone else is what I get when I compare the applied load required to move the spring from it's free height to it's static installed length.

    Has anyone else cranked out the math or tested the factory front springs on a spring rate tester? As a couple of people already know, it has been 18 years since I was the coil spring and damper business, so I have really forgotten a lot of equations.
     
  3. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

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    #53 m5guy, Nov 30, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
    Oh jesus christ Ed, are you the same Mazda Miata SSC Ed Zabinski that I used to see at Southern Pacific Regional and National races in the early 1990's?!!
     
  4. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

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    #54 m5guy, Nov 30, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
    Never mind, you are! I am sending you a PM to say hi. This may jog your memory: Richard Jonec and I were running RX-7s in Southern Pacific Division in 1993, and I also ran in the Golden Gate Region that same season. At Sears Point, I spun my car and lost a couple of positions, so I was able to tuck behind Rich and bump draft him for the rest of the race. He passed Bill Brecht or Tom Brecht due to the bump drafting and as a result, I got black flagged for a 1 lap stop-and-go. You were on the pit wall laughing your ass off! Good times man!
     
  5. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    #55 J. Salmon, Dec 1, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just to clarify (I think again, but maybe not....) I do NOT know the precise springs I will be using, I will post exactly what we go with when they are ready to go on the car. But Rob will be selecting them and I am going to defer to his knowledge in this. I can then report how it drives.

    I got the shocks and springs off today and I know that it will drive better than before, as the right front shock was blown and the adjuster gear fell apart upon removal. This will get repaired during the rebuild, and I will probably have Rob replace the gears on the other three shocks as well.
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  6. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    #56 J. Salmon, Dec 1, 2012
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    OK all you suspension gurus. I have a little snag. I want to get the discs off. There are bolts that hold them in position when the wheel is off, and there is also a 5 mm allen-head nut with a rubber bumper that helps hold the wheel in place when you are mounting it. All four of these are seized on. So far I have tried to get a little PB blaster to the threads (pretty much impossible due to the rubber bumper) and I have tried an impact wrench. I haven't rounded one off.... yet.

    Suggestions?
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  7. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Never mind. Got 'em. Combo of heat and time and a long wrench. (BTW, where were you people?)

    Ball joints?

    Bearings?
     
  8. apex97

    apex97 Formula Junior
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    Nov 25, 2006
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    LOL, I forgot all about that!! Thanks for the PM...that seems like a thousand years ago now!!
     
  9. apex97

    apex97 Formula Junior
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    Glad you got it off, sorry it was Friday night man!:)
     
  10. MRF40@yahoo.com

    [email protected] Formula Junior

    Jan 1, 2006
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    like whut? Ralph??
    We may be slow but we are watching...
     
  11. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
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    What tires do you plan on running - or are you undecided?
     
  12. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    I just put a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my challenge wheels. They seem to do as well as any other high performance road tire, though the blocks are tall and they felt a little squirmy on track. On the street they are great.

    Just got the shocks boxed to ship.
     
  13. TheItalianJob

    TheItalianJob Karting

    Dec 20, 2006
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  14. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    I think he will tell me - I don't think he is going to withold infromation (and I could just measure them...). I'll post what they are and what I think. You just have to remember that the valving will make a difference too, and that info probably will be proprietary.

    BTW, did everyone realize that at any time with over 0.3 g (accel, decel, or lateral) the shocks automatically go to the hard setting? I have been reading the service manual. The explanation of the shock parameters is pretty inclusive.
     
  15. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    I do see how to pull the bearings apart. But I cannot tell if they can be regreased. Does anyone know? All four of mine spin freely without any play. But the grease is 15 years old. I'd love to repack them, but I don't want to pull the center nuts if I don't have too.

    I could replace them I guess...
     
  16. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    While I am thinking about it:

    Removing the spring/shock assembly is easy. On the rears, remove the two engine bay covers. Each shock tower actuator is held on by a retaining clip. Pop that off and the motor slips right off the top. Keep it safe, as they are wicked expensive. Take off all four nuts but leave one just finger tight on top. Now remove the wheel and pull the bolt that goes through the bottom of the shock. You will have to push down on the lower control arm to get it to clear, or since I am pulling them too, I loosened the bushings and the shock would slip out. You can reach out and loosen the last bolt while removing the shock below.

    In the front there is a little more: you have to pull the rear piece of carpet out of the trunk to get to the shock tower tops. It's tighter, but everything is the same otherwise.

    Underneath, you pull the bolt for the shock, but you will also have to pull the adjacent bolt for the ball joint. There are spacers on each side.... keep them straight, as they set your caster! Then the hub will pull away and allow the shock out. Easy peasy!
     
  17. Extreme

    Extreme F1 Rookie

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    Glad to hear it's easy as I will be taking mine off soon for a rebuild and new H&R springs.
     
  18. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    I have decided to forgo any work on the bearings. They are smooth and tight and the only way to replace them individually is to pull them and order something the same size. Ferrari only sells the hole hub which is 2k in the rear and 2.5k up front. Pass.
     
  19. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    The ball joints are reasonable (200-250) but I am not going to do them either. They are easy to get at if there is a problem in the future and they also feel good. Same with the tie rod ends. So now, it's just getting them bushings done while I am waiting for Rob to work his magic on the shocks.
     
  20. TheItalianJob

    TheItalianJob Karting

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    #70 TheItalianJob, Dec 3, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Illyria likes this.
  21. TheItalianJob

    TheItalianJob Karting

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    #71 TheItalianJob, Dec 3, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Also have a pic of when I did my bushings. I ended up buying a mini-lath and some delrin and made up all my bushings for the front and rear control arms...
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  22. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

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    Hi J, thanks for updating this thread. I'm very interested in your upgrades because there is very little information available for track day setups on these cars. After Rob gives you the spring rate information and the shock dyno graphs (hopefully he'll provide those), can you also post what his recommendations are for the ride height too? This is a critical piece of info and ties back to what spring rates he suggests as a starting point. I am curious as to his choice of front ride height, spring rate, and bump stop selection.

    There are some pretty good guys following this thread too. I know Mitch has always been generous with providing others with the suspension math, and Apex97 (Ed) was the 2008 SCCA National Champion in the T1 Class driving a Ferrari 360.

    Good luck on the project and we are tuned in for more updates!

    -Greg
     
  23. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    #73 J. Salmon, Dec 4, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
    This is what I want to do! Can you tell me more the process? I assume I need 4 new stud nuts, but it looks like from the picture you regreased without even removing the bearing from the hub? Rears too?

    ...just added the nuts to an order from Ricambi so I am committed now... Thanks Daniel!
     
  24. apex97

    apex97 Formula Junior
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    Did you ever get zero'd in on what Spring rates you were going to try? I had some additional thoughts about this topic so in the interest of clarity here is what I am thinking.
    As drivers, engineers are our best friends and worst enemies. As you see here there is a lot of discussion about motion ratios and effective spring rates. To have an intelligent discussion between driver and engineer you must stay apples to apples, and keep the discussion about either "measured" spring rate OR "effective" spring rate.
    I always discuss this using "measured" spring rate because it doesn't require any math!
    You will be hearing higher numbers like 1800 lb/in and 2200 lb/in using the measured rate.
    I am at a slight disadvantage here because most of my experience with racing Ferraris has been the 360/430 chassis and I dont know what the measured rates are for the 355 street car and challenge cars are, but I think my advice here may still get you thinking correctly about this.
    Here is what I am getting at: Just because "real" race cars seem to be stiff and low, does not mean that will be faster with your tires and skill level. There is a relationship between the amount of available grip from the tire and the best spring rate choice. In general the more grip available, the stiffer spring you can get away with. There is also a relationship between the driver and how the spring rate "feels".
    In general, stiffer springs will change the how quickly the car breaks away at the limit and will approach that limit with less communication to the driver.
    Since you say that you are going to run "street tires" rather than slicks you can take a look at any spring between the stock rates and the "stiff" Challenge option as a reasonable range. In my experience with the 360 on Hoosier A6 tires, we found that the "soft" challenge option was the perfect compromise. My guess is that it will be the same with the 355. But keeping in mind that you are on tires with even less grip than the track only Hoosier and you intend to do at least some driving on the street, perhaps a little softer than that would be even better. I would also recommend not going super low with this car for the same reasons. I would also start with the stiff challenge front bar and the soft rear bar and adjust balance from there using the rear ride height to change rake. From level adjust Higher= less understeer/lower=more rear grip.
    I am sure the 355 experts here will shoot holes in this, but most of my experience with Ferraris is the 360 and 430 so forgive me if the 355 needs something different.
    And my final thought is that race cars should be set up for DRIVERS, not for tracks or engineers! Make the driver confident and he will put his foot down and go faster!
     
  25. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    That is an interesting thought. What brand lathe? Is it for metal or wood? The whole job cannot be more expensive than buying all the bushings and it sounds like fun to learn a new skill.
     

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