Replacing starter motor on 1978 400 Auto

Hi Russell
I got mine done which is a 400GT as yours right hand drive. It was not possible to remove without taking off the manifolds and comes out underneath.

'Roseneath Engineering' did this so I didnt get into specifics about exactly the procedure.


Regards
Alastair

 

It might be possible to undo the manifold from the head and push it to one side to gain enough clearance to remove the starter motor from underneath, I did not try that as I needed to complety remove the exhaust manifolds anyway to have them ceramic coated.

I found that there was not enough room to completely remove the manifolds from under my RHD 412, which is why I removed the injection unit, heat shield and steering shaft to gain access from the top. Once those bits are out of the way, one can remove the starter motor, either from the top or the bottom (moot point)

My suggestion is to try to move the manifold out of the way from under that car first, and if that works, that great, if not, be prepared to remove the carbs & inlet manifold to gain access from the top


M

 

Can anyone confirm that only O-Rings are used between the inlet manifold and block on a 400 with carbs.

Thanks,

Russ

 

Yes indeed, 24 in total - good luck with your task Russ!

Cheers, Howard.

 

Thanks Howard, I thought this was the case but wanted to double check.

So far I have the new starter, exhaust and inlet gaskets, bypass pipe gaskets (mine are crap) and just want to sort out replacement cables for the starter if possible so I have everything ready to complete the job in one go. The job is planned for December 8th and 9th as that's when my mate will next be free at the weekend to let me use his workshop and help me get the old girl running again (got withdrawal symptoms !!)

If anyone can supply any info of cable length and connector types for both positive and negative terminals I'd appreciate it.

 

Well, today I bit the bullet and replaced the starter in my carbed 400.

Purchased all gaskets required beforehand (plus a few others just in case) and started at 9am this morning at my friends workshop.

Job was far easier than I had expected, probably because the previous owner had the exhaust system inc. manifolds replaced with stainless a few years ago so all of the bolts came off without problem.

After a bit of head scratching and careful evaluation of what did/didn't need to come off ) and in what order) I proceeded as follows:-

1. Remove Airbox (pain in the butt as loads of bolts which are hard to get to but it came off eventually. I had already disconnected the bonnet strut to allow easier access but this may not have been required.

2. Remove heatshield below airbox. Mine is right hand drive so getting it past the steering column was fiddly but it's aluminium (I think) so would flex.

3. Remove as many manifold bolts as possible from above then lift the car and remove the remainder from below, The second heatshield covering the started could then be removed.

4. Undo all bolts attaching manifolds to main exhaust system inc. bypass pipes.

5. Remove manifolds from below.

6. Disconnect starter wires, undo both bolts holding starter in place (top one was a bit fiddly but no special tools required)

7. Clean everything, use emery cloth to brighten up the starter cable terminals.

8. Fit a female, crimp-on connector to the starter switch wire (I fitted a gear reduction starter which is half the size and weight of an original starter and had a spade terminal for the switch as opposed to a screw fitting.

9. Fit the new starter (top bolt easy as unit is much, much smaller).

10. Fit cables to starter.

11. Refit everything above in reverse order.

12. Fiddle around with badly fitting exhaust for 2 hours.

13. Start car - now turns over about 3 times faster than before !!

14. Drive off happily into the sunset.

Total time inc. running around local motor factors trying to locate some manifold to exhaust gaskets (these were totally f****d) was 8 hours start to finish.

Not sure if this is harder on an injection car (I could get to the top bolts by removing the airbox but I don't know how an injection engine differs here re access) but I would happily do this again with no worries and it's 100% do-able for a competent home mechanic BUT having a lift made the job SO much easier than laying on the floor and I did have the benefit of access to a mechanics full set of decent tools which probably helped a lot.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice, glad I finally got there.

Russ

 

Russell, well done. Where did you get the starter and how much if you don't mind. I may be up for one soon too. A$780 in Aust, made locally.

 

Mine came from Mike at Ferraristarters.com. Advertised cost was around $425 USD but he also advertises on eBay so I called him up and haggled a direct price of $375 USD. Very nice guy, haggling on the phone was very funny. His shipping quote wasnt that expensive but then I'd have to pay import duty and vat but a friend of mine was going to Vegas so Mike sent it there FOC and my friend bought it back - very good timing ! Shipping may make this uneconomical to Upsidedown land - got any mates going to the US ?

It came with a lifetime warranty, went in easily and works great.

 

Many thanks for posting your step by step guide.
I currently do not have a need but have been pondering how to get that starter out without removing the whole engine.
Your report is going into my rainy day DIY folder right now.
Thanks again,
Greg

 

No problem Greg, I was pretty nervous about doing the job but it turned out to be far less difficult than expected - I think I'd built it up to be a real monster in my mind so posting a step-by-step guide may help others if they have similar fears.

Not sure about how easy doing an injected car would be but at least a left hand drive car wouldn't have the steering column in the way.

 

Thanks Russell, I wonder if they make them for the Southern Hemisphere where maybe they have to spin backwards, you know like the water down the plug hole in the bath.

 

I think they make a special Aussie version where the starter gear stays still but the whole car spins around it. I queried that this may make the driver dizzy but the manufacturer said that Australians are always drunk so a) they wouldn't notice or b) the spinning motion would counteract the alcohol and the driver would be sober again.

I'm still not 100% if he was joking or not....

 

Nice work on the starter Russell
Regards
Alastair

 

Was a bit of a saga but I'd happily do it again (on a carbed car anyway).

Car was running great until yesterday when red fluid started leaking out of the drivers side front (prob power steering fluid but could be gearbox - anyone know if there's a cooling rad at the front ?)

Also the old electrical problem came back when I left the workshop - I opened the drivers window when the car was on the lift but couldn't shut it plus the Fuel gauge and oil temp go mad when the lights are on or either of the window switch is pressed plus the gauge lights stay off when the lights are on but come on when the lights are off and I press either window switch. I still think its an earth issue but i checked and cleaned all earth leads a few months ago. Oh the joys of owning a 400 !

Any and all advice very greatfully received.

 

A lot of truth in that.

 

LOL

 

Hi Russ - great guide to starter replacement - then i read the above -my starters has failed today - so when can i drop it in????!

 

Nathan - if you get stuck, I have a spare standard starter.

Howard.

 

Hi Howard
I may take you up on this offer. Tried to free it up this morning but still won't start. Battery is also drained after about 4 attempts to start I'm assuming due to the massive current draw of the motor. So now on charge...

 

Howard, starter motor still hasn't shown up for the engine you're working on, so I'm also interested, unless we go for one of Russ's American motors?

 

I think it could be done on an exchange basis anyway - I could get mine checked out first then if you need it Nathan, I could take yours in p/ex giving me one that could probably be fixed for Eric (300man).
I'm sure we can make everyone happy - besides which Russ took one off which is probably fixable too - the place is lousy with 'em.

 

Battery is refusing to charge at the minute. Once I get to the bottom of the issue and confirm it's definitely the starter I'll let you know. Thanks again for the offer of help. Give me a few days and I'll come back.

 

Hi Nathan,

Sorry to hear your starter failed, personally I'd 100% change it for a high torque unit as they're lighter, faster and guaranteed for life. I can point you to the guy I got mine from in the states if I didn't mention it in the thread (I really can't remember).

If you need any help PM me again.

Russ

 

Get the modern gear reduction starter. I have one on my car and it works great.

 

I believe this is the outfit/starter that everyone's referring to:

New Ferrari V12 Modern Starter 365 330 Daytona 275 400 | eBay