engine finally ready to go back in!

another month or so, and i'll be doing donuts in the snow in midtown manhattan...
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Phil. A few things u may want to consider while its out;
1) get acorn nuts with stato seal washers for all of the nuts on the sump. Otherwise it will leak and drive u crazy
2) consider getting the valve covers powder coated...not entirely original but looks great
3)put one of the new alternator drip protector that nuvolari is selling- a huge pain to fix the alternator
4) get the linkage at least cad plated on the carbs....do the same for the chain tensioner caps
5) make sure that they test it on a test bed and look for leaks..insist on wet and dry compression readings
6) install new water pump and engine mounts
I am sure that others here have some insights but it looks great (also get all used parts back...pistons rings valves etc)

 

Also get 13mm nuts on the headers...Superformance sells em and easier to take off

 

Phil, I don't see the updated stop screw in your timing chain tensioner. Keeps your timing chain tensioner from loosening up. Look at the tensioner on your Stratos. It has the stop screw. Very easy and worthwhile modification.

 

thanks for the info guys...!

btw, where can i get a stop screw?

 

Ron at Superformance made me a set. They are pretty simple to do yourself though. I was thinking of this last night- hopefully your guy made a booklet with a ton of pictures showing you what he did to the engine. Also make sure that the drum of the distributor does not have wear spots from the throw out weights on the spindle. If it does they look like round indented impressions & it will screw up your timing. There are threads about this on Fchat but easy to fix. There are just 1000 little things that you can get done while the engine is out...I didnt look but do you have the gear reduction starter in there? you may have installed one in the past...good luck!

 

and make sure you have the mounting brackets fitted correctly, easy to get around the wrong way and a sod to alter when the engine is in, also dont be tempted to fit to much to the engine as you will struggle to get it in!
Tony

 

but i was only going to add little LED lights so the engine compartment would glow when i drive at night...

 

Hey looks great! Any neat internals this time? Do tell

 

The engine looks really nice and there has been some excellent advice given. Allow me to add that you want to make sure that all of your exhaust shields are trial fitted and in place. This includes the alternator heat shield and the aluminum cup that covers the engine mount.

As for exhaust nuts I urge you to stay with the copper ones. The brass ones SP sells do not stay tight as nice as the copper ones and you do NOT want to have to tighten the forward manifold nuts when on the car.

Lastly do consider a D3S Alternator drip saver. Even with everything brand new the tensioner is a bad design and is prone to leak at any time.

 

Sounds great. Where can I get some. I'm think of putting in a modified and chromed E Type rear suspension and lighting that up too!

 

I second what Tony L has said. Looking at your picture I think the mountings may be upside down and mounted the wrong side of the brackets. Please remember the diagram in the parts manual is wrong. I may be wrong but it has been discussed here before so it may be worth checking.

Simon

 

I'm sure there are plenty of guys out there with more experience than me but having been at this point on two previous occasions I can seriously recommend running it on a stand for a few hours and then re-torquing those heads back down. Yes its a pain taking the cams back out but I got movement on all of the head nuts.

 

i just did it on mine & will absolutely second that. I will post a pic of it on the stand. Its the only way to get all the leaks and re-torque the cams. yes it is a huge pain!

 

You don't even need a stand. I ran mine on the floor. Used a mechanical oil pressure guage. Ran it for a short time to let it heat soak and over all I think I let her run for 7-8 hours at varying rpm. Pulled the covers and checked/adjusted tappet clearance and re-torqued the heads. Re-checked carb balance as well. Did a compression check of all cylinders for base line and to make sure everything was OK. So much easier to do this outside the car. Someone suggested using an oil pig to ensure oil pressure on start-up and that is a great option if available. On mine, just prior to start-up, I put oil in the oil cooler lines and the pressure sender hole. Cranked it over with plugs out and pressure came right up.