Ron- Affirmative, that may be why you bent one of the clutch housing splines on removal.
Bundas, Thanks, I was hoping that would be the trick, just need to be careful not to overheat and loose the temper (the steel's not mine) and springiness. The plan is to put a circular weight where the release bearing touches all fingers and then heat. FBB, The friction material and flywheel are in perfect condition, and measure within spec, I will replace the release bearing since I was lucky enough to buy a new one one cheap a few years ago . Josh, Thanks for the "how to push the transaxle back" , I thought it would be rather involved. Regards, Ron
Bundas, Just to let you know it worked, heated the finger gently and evenly and tapped it level with the rest of the fingers. Looks fine, the new thrust bearing sits level and even on the fingers with no gaps. Thanks, Ron
Josh, Yes, much easier said than done but you were right, linear pull on the timing cover worked fine once ring nuts removed. Pete (Moorfan), Thanks for the help with the Hill tool to remove timing sprocket ring nut, timing cover now off (photo1). Pistons, crankshaft are all off, nothing left but crankcase. Photo 2 - the sump now can be removed once timing cover/chain removed Photo 3 - the 2 halves crankcase and sump/screen Photo 4 - why am I doing all this ? see hole in the cylinder liner top RH corner Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Corrosion from the water coolant on the other side of the liner or possibly cavitation. Maybe the Ferrari gods are angry with me since I did not buy a new Ferrari? Ron PS The theory and pictures: http://www.us.mahle.com/C1256F7900537A47/vwContentByKey/W27JCGJK934STULEN/$FILE/EN_MAHLE_HD_pitting_corrosion.pdf http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/MAHLE_Aftermarket_EU/EN/Products-and-Services/Engine-components/Cylinder-liners
I have not seen that on any Ferrari, Maserati or Alfa wet liner motor before, and that goes back to the 70's. Or even anything but run of the mill corrosion from insufficient coolant/corrosion protection. It does make me wonder however if it had anything to do with their decision to go back to alloy liners in the subsequent motors? I will be interested to see what the other side of the cylinder wall looks like.
Ron, did you see anything amiss with the liners on the right bank? As Brian said, it'll be very interesting to see what the liners look like once they're out.
Ron- I feel for you. If there is one thing you do not want to hear, it is a pro saying "Geez, never seen that on one of those engines before."
Brian and John, I wish I could see the other side of the liners too, removing the liners has not been easy, I tried the "universal" OTC tool 1205: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1205-Universal-Wet-Type-Sleeves/dp/B000I16OZG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1358272523&sr=1-2&keywords=Cylinder+Sleeve+puller But due to obstructions in the block below the cylinder it does not fit. I tried an expanding mandrel (from an exhaust pipe expander) , it gripped the liner nicely but the liner did not move even after cooling the liner and heating the block. So I have handed the block over to a local machine shop experienced in Lambo V12 engine rebuilds to see if they can remove the liners. I will have them remove several other liners to see if corrosion also exists on them, if so I will fit new liners all round. Bundas, Morgans with termites (in the wooden chassis)? I certainly hope not. Will keep you posted, Ron
By the way, in my reading I see that cylinder liner issues occur more often on diesel engines and tractors so one would expect a Lambo to have this problem but not a Ferrari ! Regards, Ron
For far less than that OTC tool one can be made that works. I can't post pictures or I would. A round piece of aluminum that has a step in the OD. One dimension slightly smaller than bore size and one dimension slightly smaller than the OD of the liner at the base. It will need a flat on one side to dodge the main bearing web and a hole in the middle. The second piece is just a square big enough to sit on top of the four head studs and a long piece of 1/2 inch all thread and a couple of nuts and washers. The liners are supposed to be able to come out cold but warming the block for an hour or two in front of a portable electric heater, especially on a cold day, makes the job easier. It is very easy, poorly trained people in Maranello do it every day.
Due to the stresses and temps involved I am not surprised diesels do this but a 550 being driven in America is a pretty underworked motor. Also hard worked diesel over the road motors are expected to go 400,000 before top end work. Lambos are just Victorian era 4 cam motors built by blacksmiths. I know, we have one.
Just researched what RifleDriver was referring to, I found in http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314901 he said "All 4 valve motors (started in 83) had the aluminum cylinders. 355, 456, 550, 360 went to the nickasil (coated?) steel cylinders. 575 went back to the aluminum cylinders. The aluminum cylinders lasted a very long time, much better than the old iron in the 2 valve motors." Very interesting, - 575 went back from the 550 steel to aluminum liners. But why am I the first to experience corrosion or pitting of the steel? Ron
Here's what we use... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
RifleDriver, Thanks for the design tips for the liner puller, I was sketching a similar thing on paper over the weekend but I do not have the machining equipment for it, the plate OD and ID step needs to be cut exactly 81-82mm and 80mm. I did ask Ferrari of Houston the price of the official puller , it was $1800 which is equivalent to the price 6 liners. I also asked them if they could remove the liners for me, they refused to do a partial job, they will only do the whole engine. Fortunately Amazon has a good refund policy for the "universal" OTC. Of course, I could always wrap the block in brown paper and send it via USPS to you! Regards, Ron
The Nikasil process is far superior to any cast iron liner, hence why Ferrari continues to this day with the process. The "oil retaining" properties are reason alone to use it, never mind it's superior dimensional stability characteristics. Obviously aluminum has better heater transfer properties than cast iron... A great question...I got started a few years later than Brian...and cut my teeth on far too many Alfa Romeo wet sleeve engines. So, in roughly 35 years, I too have never seem your particular issue. My best guess would be either a manufacturing defect from day one (tough to believe coming from Mahle) or some pretty horrific coolant services, or lack thereof.
FastRadio, That puller is a "thing of beauty" , thanks for posting. Did you also apply dry ice to liner and heat the block? How about fitting the new ones, do they just slide in, or do you use some lubricating soap? Regards, Ron
