what oil are Ferrari dealers using on 328s

earlier model 328's and 308's stated 10w50 (factory spec) from '88 it was superceeded to 10w40 ( full synthetic )

experienced mechanics recommends full synthetic 5w50 / 10w50 and also 10w60 for our older V8 engines and lots of people uses 5w40 which is a little light in my opinion for older Ferrari V8 (308 / 328 )

I prefer heavier 5 or 10w50 since the protection's also higher for high engine temps and even better for warm climate areas/countries and this higher viscosity(w50 or w60) is less likely to seep though old cam seals / O - rings.

Johnny

 

RedLine 5w50 84 QV

 

With more than 30 years experience with Castrl GTX oil on several cars (New and old cars), I noticed that I never had a leaking lip-seal,

what is your experience ?

 

For road use 10w40 semi is a good balance, but the Valvoline is the oil of choice for pretty much every 308 - 328 running in the Pirelli Ferrari Classic (under race conditions).

 

I had a feeling that this one was slowly morphing into an oil preference thread........

 

+328

The OP asks "what oil are Ferrari dealers using on 328s".

It's so specific and simple, yet so many feel the urge to chime in about what they personally use! And not even on their 328s but 308s and Mondials. Hilarious.

 

oil, belts, coolant.............it's all like Crack!

To the OP: Save yourself now, just call two or three dealers

 

The dealer in this area doesn't seem to care (or know) about anything but the latest models. Better to either find an independent technician or DIY. Might avoid the Quick Stop though

 

The thing with 50w is you have to get the stuff very hot for it to be of appropriate viscosity for regular driving. 50w is just too thick at temps around 160-170 to really do as good a job as a quality 40w synthetic at 160-170 degree temps. If running the engine north of 212 degrees regularly? Have at 50w, absolutely. Below? 40w. That's why manufacturers swapped to 40w, for regular temps, 40w technology is such that it is just better. That's precisely why I changed to 40w synthetic. I use Motul.

Ferrari's race spec engines running very hot run Helix 60w.

I should add, if your engine is old the clearances are probably bigger and you're burning oil. Of that's the case, continue with your 50w. Fresh or good engine, 40w

 

The same here. I have also used GTX 20W-50 forever in several Jaguar XKEs that I've owned, including my '70 coupe that I've owned for over 12 years, and I have none of the "notorious" XKE leaking that some people complain about. I see no reason to change what I'm using, because it seems to work just fine.

 

Slowly?? It was gone by the third reply. LOL As long as we are off onto that slippery slope of "preferences," anyone want to chime in on belt service intervals????


I love being a troublemaker sometimes.

 

You instigator, you....

 

Search here for ZDDP....be sure that it's in your oil, for the sake of the cam lobes, tappets, etc. if you want to buy oil at the store, no worries....you can add it.

 

"Search here for ZDDP....be sure that it's in your oil, for the sake of the cam lobes, tappets, etc. if you want to buy oil at the store, no worries....you can add it."

Sorry but I have to disagree re worrying about/adding ZDDP...

1. Mobil 1 0W40, for example, contains 1100PPM of ZDDP. Some racing oils contain 1800+ So if you are concerned, there are plenty of oils that contain substantial ZDDP but keep in mind that:

2. Our engines are overhead cam, not flat tappet. The "concern" re the need for larger amounts of ZDDP than current oils provide is for flat tappet engines and doesn't apply to us. Any current motor oil of the correct viscosity will work just fine.

3. Adding ZDDP to your oil is practicing oil chemistry without a license! First, you have no idea what you have done to the existing additive package that is already in the oil. Adding something doesn't just ADD that product, it changes the entire package. Also, adding it to the oil does not mean it mixed or will mix with the oil. You can basically end up with a "slug" of ZDDP sitting at the top or bottom of the oil pan. If you insist on having more ZDDP, buy oil that contains more to start with.

Now it's REALLY turned into an oil thread!

 

Ah, but there are indeed of the "flat tappet" variety. A typical overhead cam engine would be anything with a high cam and rocker arms, such as a BMW 2002 The oil shear loads on the cam lobes is very low. On a Ferrari, the cam lobe literally swipes the oil off the the tappet, which we refer to as the valve shim. The shear loads on both the cam lobe and valve shims are extremely high...and why cam wear is always a concern in these engines.

Well, the oil engineers at Castrol, Red Line and Royal Purple might disagree here. Castrol has stated that most of there oils are not safe for use in any flat tappet engine, unless ZDDP levels are over 1000ppm. A search will reveal the info I received from Castrol a while ago.

Your engine, your cams....the lobe wear occurs; it just takes time.

Have fun, be happy...and enough about oil.

 

+1

 

and we never did find out what dealers used in 328s ....

/thread

 

"The shear loads on both the cam lobe and valve shims are extremely high...and why cam wear is always a concern in these engines. "

IMO - A myth. But one that sells a lot of ZDDP!

 

For the O.P.......for years, the "official" Ferrari oil was Agip, at weights specified in the owner's manual. The preferred brand may have changed since.

 

As much as I'd like to agree with you, I see a fair amount of F-cars with very pointy cam lobes and trashed valve shims. And, there's just too much supporting data from engine builders, cam manufactures and oil companies just to turn a blind eye. Granted those cam lobe specs are a tad wimpy by "muscle car" standards, but a high rpm limit and a tiny base circle does noting to extend the lobe life. For a bit of historical perspective, Ferrari used to recommend a can of Molycote-B added at every oil change "for extra protection."

Taking a step forward to modern high hp, high revving engines, BMW specifies very specific oils in their "M" engines. Ditto for Audi and others. With manufacturers trying to get every last mpg out of their eco-turds, I'd want to be sure that the stuff that they're calling "oil" has enough of the good stuff to protect my 30-40 year old priceless Ferrari. That's all I'm saying...

 

mobil 1,15w50 racing,308/328s

 

I apologize to all, in advance, for resurrecting the dreaded ZDDP thread monster. I personally use it and will continue.

I'm out..............

 

An Indie locally uses AGIP, and if-requested, Shell Helix for 328s. I stopped-in for an oil change once, and received AGIP SINT 2000 and a new oil filter for $128. Won't do THAT again.....I have only seen Shell products at certified Ferrari Dealerships. A 328 would get what they have in-stock, Shell-wise.

 

I love reading about oil. I always read the oil threads.I love oil, and a lot of other car fanatics do too. Every car forum always has a group that starts whining whenever oil is discussed as if its some taboo subject. Get over it, if they bother you just don't read the oil threads and don't post in them. Quite simple.