Restoration of Miura 1021

After being blasted, treated and now primed those areas are just fine. No reason to cut it out and replace it.

 

Yes, why leave pitted metal like that. They have done such an amazing job everywhere else.

With my humble Alfa GTV restoration that damage is cut out and replaced. I just don't understand spending all this time and effort, let alone cost and considering rust pitted metal to be acceptable.

It didn't leave the factory like that.
Pete

 

So when do YOU replace?

Does it have to be a rust hole? ... those areas are micro mm's away from being a hole, why treat them differently?

I don't understand??.

Note: All my comments are just my opinion, and I'm sure this car is being restored very well indeed.
Pete

 

OK, so now I see what you are referring to. Rust may or may not (I have not yet looked at it) have caused the "pitting" that you have called out, but there is no rust there now for sure. It was blasted, then rust treated and then primed. As I said, the weld holes are most likely poor welds, but there is no rust there either.

 

Well ... a lot of these older Italian cars did get a head start on becoming a rust farm.

I had a frank and extended discussion with someone of significant importance at Maserati about this exact topic once and he explained in no uncertain terms that they intended the cars to last only 4-5 years and then you were supposed to buy a new one. They didn't worry about such things ...

The high end restoration shops out there should be most grateful for that.

So Alberto, you're probably NOT being authentic by doing such a great job. At least I hope not!

 

If the pitting was sever I would replace the affected area, this pitting looks like surface corrosion, and it has been blasted, treated and now primed so the rust has been treated, Since this is the frame and something that will not be seen It is fine as is. If the Customer was concerned with this it could most certainly be replaced. That adds more to the cost.

I also do not know how thick that metal is in that particular area.

 

Alberto,

This is rather like taking a bath in the public square and having everyone comment on the job you're doing.

 

"Criticism is necessary and useful; it is often indispensable; but it can never take the place of action, or be even a poor substitute for it. The function of the mere critic is of very subordinate usefulness. It is the doer of deeds who actually counts in the battle for life, and not the man who looks on and says how the fight ought to be fought, without himself sharing the stress and the danger."

Theodore Roosevelt

 

All good then. I'll move back into my corner.

Keep up the good work.
Pete

 

When he starts quoting the former leader of "The Rough Riders" watch out!

Oh yes and then there's "Bully", how apropos ...

 

Does that stuff harden and crack/shrink over time like caulk would do, or does it permanently bond to the medal and stay in place. Is it a dual part epoxy type thing or just a one part component, and lastly is it heat cured or air cured?

Thanks

 

I do not know what Steve used. I will ask him. I do know it is something that he has used in the past with success.

Alberto

 

Seam sealer is designed to seal metal joints in sheet metal. The stuff I have seen is a one part component that is air cured. There are several brands available, I would assume Steve uses a professional brand, one possibility would be 3M's seam sealer.

Cheers Jim

 

Any rust area that that had bad pitting and was not structurally sound was cut out and replaced

Steve

 

On something like this I would rather have a little bit of pitted metal and keep the originality than cut & weld.

 

Kravchak,

The seam sealer I use is an automotive grade product that I have had great success with and have been using for many years on my Ferrari jobs. It is a single stage product that is oxygenated hardened (when you break the seal you have to use it). It is formulated to grip onto a urethane two-part primer for best results. From my past experience, seam sealing over bare metal never sticks very well because seam sealers do not have etching properties in them like the new primers do. This material is also formulated to be sprayed over with primer as well. After I seam seal the part, it gets heated up in the spray booth and dries for 24 hours. The next day you can see it has very little shrinkage but stays a little flexible. It tells me the solvents are gone and it's dry to top coat and you can’t tell any shrinkage in your final primer or paint. If you were to try to intentionally peel it off (which is very hard to do) it has a residue of primer on the back side, which tells me there is great adhesion.

The name of the Product is called "Fusor” by Lord Corporation LORD Corporation - LORD Fusor Products . The cost is very reasonable and I love the way it works and its longevity. Here are a few more shots of where I use it.

Steve Kouracos
Steve Kouracos | Fine Craftsmanship In Automotive Restoration & Resurfacing
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Thank you for the info and the car is really coming along now, when do you think it will be finished?

 

This is a voyage of discover, including the completion date. Additionally, circumstances outside the car itself have and will continue to dictate the timing of the completion. In other words, I have no idea!

 

I will say that this Mira is being worked on every day. Completion date?

regards

 

I meant for the whole car, I have no idea when it will be completed.

As for you Steve, stop working on those wimpy engined Dino's and start working on a car that has a real man's engine.

 

I don't know anything or anybody that doesn't like a little sun shine sometime! This Bull is taken a little time to cook in the California sun.

Steve
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Great progress..!

 

to bad you could not just replicate all that and hang it on your wall . Almost criminal to cover it all up !!

Gary
Espada
8394
Etype
887465

 

Funny, I thought the same thing.

Alberto

 

Well you could you know. The eBay auctions of the rest would probably still make you whole.