Connector family for 360 TCU etc.?

Anyone know either the mfr. and type of connector used on the TCU, or know how to take it apart? I want to move a pin and got stopped by the white block on the face of the harness connector; couldn't figure out how to get it out without damage.

 

Here's the best pic I could find on the web. I've since ordered the set below to play with. The pin block can slide side to side about 1/16", and one end (visible in the picture) is a wedge latch. I pushed the wedge latch in enough to lift that end of the block, but couldn't "unhook" the other end without applying an uncomfortable amount of force. Of course all this is down behind the seats on my CS so not a good environment for fine motor control. If I can't figure it out on the bench with the separate ones I'll post better pictures.
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Ordered them from a Lotus site so don't know Mfr., but probably will when I have them. Will report back.

 

Will do.

In answer to the question "why?" I have a CS and by moving a TCU pin can change my Launch Control button's function from "destroy clutch" to "automatic transmission."

 

The connectors arrived from https://radiumauto.com/index.php?p=product&id=47&parent=22 and the part number markings are:

Tyco V23542-C1028-B300
Tyco V23542-C1052-B300

Tyco in this context has become TE Connectivity. The connectors are also referred to as AMP brand, which I guess is now part of TE/Tyco.

28-pin part: 1393436-4 Product Details - TE
52-pin part: 1393450-5 Product Details - TE

Datasheets attached, referring to the pinblock as a "secondary lock" or "kontaktsicherung" (contact insurance), also listing it as formerly a Siemens part.

The 52-pin drawing in section B-B purports to show how the secondary lock works by showing it in both locked and unlocked position, but I see only a tiny difference betwee the two drawings at the top of the lock, and don't see how that would work in retaining the pin. Possibly that's not what it's for, but rather to stabilize the position of the pin laterally, and is thus "contact insurance." If anyone sees how it works please explain.

Appears to be available in small quantities for ~$5: 1393436-4 TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP BRAND | Discrete Wire Housing Connectors 1393436 4 | Onlinecomponents.com $20 min. order.

Pin part number 1411594-1, 1411594-1 TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP BRAND | Connector Contact 1411594 1 | Onlinecomponents.com $0.39.

The 52-pin parts also uses a few larger power pins.

The white pinblocks are removed as was suggested, by pressing on the leaf-spring tab at one end, and in the case of the free connector shells this causes the pin block to pop out on its own and land a few inches away.

Pin removal is as you would expect: collapse the terminal leaf-spring with a jeweler's screwdriver or equivalent from the front and extract from the back.

So, the only remaining mystery to me is why the pinblocks in the car didn't "pop right out", but I bet it's because the in-car connector is populated with pins and the secondary lock in doing its job isn't so ready to be removed.
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Spring is same side as wire crimp opening.

See attached dwg.

Also, I now understand why it's a "secondary lock": The pins are inserted with the secondary lock in place in the shell. When you insert a pin, it latches onto an edge in the shell as well as one in the secondary lock. If you want to remove a pin, you slide the secondary lock to one side. This moves a rectangular opening in the face of the secondary lock into position such that the right size tool (about 1 x 2 mm) inserted into that opening will retract the leaf spring and allow the terminal to be extracted. That's why I can't remove the secondary lock: all the pins are holding it in place.

Knowing this terminal is a Tyco "Elo-power 2,8" I found a Rennsteig 680 97028 tool at Rennsteig Tools, Inc. - Flat connection tools (with 1 span-in pin) which lists Elo-power as one of its applications and has a "contact width" of 1.5 mm which is about right given the leaf spring measures 1.3 mm wide.
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Good point, and now that I have loose terminals I could in fact insert a terminal with wire into the TCU auto input location I want to use and swap at the "wire" level. In fact, having done that I could then put a SPDT switch there and thus be able to return quickly to the original configuration.

And of course there's the plan where I put in a terminal with long wire and run the wire up to a new switch, thus leaving Launch Contor intact, just in case I need to make a fast getaway before switching to Auto.

Or, I could simply join them to find out what the TCU does when you put it in Launch Control and Auto mode at the same time. Bet Ferrari marketing never thought of that one.

PS I think a Delphi micro-pack release tool is the right size to work and I should be able to get one at local Autozone or whatever.

 

Since this post I have acquired a removal tool that works (Rennsteig 680-12094429). This has a 0.36 mm x 1.05 mm blade, which when inserted into an unlocked connector 6 mm allows the wire to be removed. The connector is unlocked by sliding the "secondary lock" (the white plastic piece) to the side such that its square button end protrudes. Sufficient insertion depths is critical; if you tug on the wire without the leaf spring retracted you can end up curling the leaf spring in such a way that you will never get the terminal out. Just as a reminder, the leaf springs and their latches are on the inside of any two rows of terminals since they are features of the secondary lock which is T shaped in cross-section, with latches on the vertical element of the T). So releasing the leaf spring means pressing it out from the center of the secondary lock.

At least, that's how a loose connector behaved on the bench equipped with a stereo microscope. I have not yet tried it on the actual TCU connector in the car.