Went to the shop to work with Steve on some details. We masked off where to spray the Lizard Skin, among other things. I also managed to source (thanks Gary!) an original (used, but working) Bendix Elmira fuel pump, with the tell tale stamp on the top of the pump. These are pretty much NLA with the embossing. It even has its original sticker, which unfortunately has black overspray on it so most likely it's not salvageable, but a reproduction sticker will be the next best thing. One more detail checked off for originality. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Which lizard skin product and why? I spoke with one of the technical oldtimers at the division in Elmira, NY when I was getting a currently manufactured (hard to even see the pump on that car) pump reference for my Espada and he invited me to come by and say hello since I go right through there a couple of times a year on my way to Watkins Glen. So every time we drive through there I can't help myself and break out in a chorus of The Oak Ridge Boy's Elvira ... just nutty I guess?
See if you can find an OEM pump with the stamping for me. On the Miura's they are front and center on the passenger's side outside firewall. Pretty hard to miss. I'm intending to use both the sound deadening and the heat insulation Lizard Skin Products on both firewalls (front and rear), inside floor, the sides (inside and outside) where the water coolant pipes run, inside of the doors, and the roof. I've talked to a few hot rodders who have used it and love it. I'm not a fan of the dynamat stuff, among other reasons because it adds a lot of weight. I'll be topping off the Lizard Skin with Aerogel superinsulation on the rear firewall and the inside sections where the water coolant pipes run. Hopefully, this will keep the cabin reasonably cool.
Alberto, I had the same issue on my car, but with judicious use of a mild paint stripper my sticker came out intact and in surprisingly good shape.
Lizard skin is a wonderful product that we used on our Dino restoration: Dino 246 Restoration Blog: Product Spotlight: Lizard Skin Sound & Heat Insulation Much better than any mat product and very easy to use. The Bendix pump is a really cool original item however it cannot be properly re-built and I would not trust it and prefer a modern Facet that is almost identical in look save the stamp. I struggled with that decision too but in the end felt that the car HAD to be reliable in this respect so the decision was taken not to use a Bendix (saved finding a set too )
That's why the relatively new Facet fuel pump that was on the car will be in my tool kit, for just such a possibility! By the way, did you directly coat the water tubes that run along the cabin of the Dino (I'm thinking of doing that on my tubes)?
Yes we used the ceramic coat on these tubes and on the fiberglass panels than run next to it. On the Dino it is a big source of cabin heat that we wanted to take care of. We were careful to do all of the coating in areas that would be covered so that it is totally invisible when the car is assembled.
Thank you. It's a bit more tricky in a Miura because some portions of the tubes are visible, but I think I will coat the portions underneath the rockers which are not.
It's a bit different on my Bora as the pipes are in a tunnel that's open on the bottom so some desperate guys have actually put copper fins on them to aid cooling. Is this stuff easy to spray into specific areas on an already finished and assembled car? How think is the ceramic version in a typical application? I have a portion of a chassis I need to protect from red hot turbo waste gates where there's not a lot of clearance. Could I brush it?
Bob, I suggest you go to the Lizard Skin web site to take a look. The stuff can be sprayed into specific areas, although because of the viscosity of it, it requires a fairly large nozzle opening so "specific area" is a relative term. They recommend not to brush it on, but I have read of people that have successfully brushed it on. For the waste gates, take a look at the aerogel insulation that I am going to use. Go to aerogel dot com (there are others that make it) and take a look at the product. PM if you want more. It is not cheap, but it seems like the best product out there that I have found to this point. Go here [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Pm_GHIChXk]aspen1.flv - YouTube[/ame] , skip to 0:48 sec. and you'll see what it is. I think this stuff, if you can fit it in the space you have (you'll may need some sort of adhesive I guess, so you'll have to look into what works in the temperature range it will see), would work well for that application. I'm intending to use both the Lizard Skin and the aerogel insulation. The Miura gets very hot on hot days and hot on any regular day, and I want to try all I can to keep things as comfortable as I reasonably can.
Sorry, don't remember the brand. Too long ago. I only let it set long enough to soften the paint then used an old toothbrush to carefully remove the paint. Requires patience, but the sticker is small. My latest experience is with the orange gel paint remover - seems pretty mild to me. Salvaged my oem mats below the seats - they look great now.
Went to see the metal work going on both the front and rear clips this week. Note the differences in the rear clip, including the trunk hinges (number 9 is the original tail), the number of rivets (rivet spacing on No. 9 much smaller than on the other tail). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
More, of the differences in the riveting pattern. Note multiple stampings of the number 9 on one of the hinges (too much Chianti at lunch?). The passenger's wheel well had a weird patch on it for some reason. There is no damage under it, so it's a bit of a mystery why it was there. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ever wonder what the interior of a Miura outside of the car looks like? Here you go. Today I dropped off the interior at the upholsterer's. Out with the non-original tan leather interior, to be put back to as original as we can, including black seats with basket weave vinyl center inserts, dark gray dash and center console. Note brushed on black paint on the rear of the dash parts. I'm debating whether to refinish this area to remove the surface rust and prevent it from coming back or leaving it as is. I'm leaning towards leaving it as is. Note chalk numbers on the center console back (which will be kept) and number stampings on one of the kick panels (other interior parts have number stamps, not pictured). Fortunately, the original heel pad material is being remade. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Do these cars have the most complex under bonnet/boot support structures of any car ever designed? ... heck what a nightmare to restore. Such intrigate engineering! Pete
One of the reasons I went into engineering was the Miura. The engineering and design of the Miura was something that always intrigued me.
It's interesting to see that your very early interior is primarily fabricated steel covered in foam (I assume). Only a few pcs seem to be fiberglass. The interior of my car, #116, is just the opposite - nearly all fiberglass and the mounting tabs are riveted to the glass. It even looks like some of the metal dash pcs are stampings. Incredible amount of labor went into building these cars! How about your seats - fiberglass buckets or steel? Are your door panels all steel or a combo of steel and fiberglass?
Seats on 1021 are fiberglass (I believe they all are?). The door panels are a combination of fiberglass and metal (mostly metal if memory after a few drinks is correct). I'll get pictures of the rear of the door cards when I can. The dash parts are mostly metal, very little fiberglass (I seem to recall only one fiberglass piece). Keep in mind that 1021 is the 9th built, and the 4th pre-production car (after the first 5 prototypes), so they were still figuring out how to best build them. The preproduction cars were mostly done at Bertone, I believe, as a sort of test/demonstration program for full production processes, etc. so it's not too surprising that they changed things as they gained more experience and learned easier ways to do things. For example if you look at the pictures you can surmise that they soon figured out that they did not need to rivet every 1.5 cm, and could do it every 2.5cm and still keep rigidity (for example, I haven't actually measured them). If you have pictures of your interior parts construction, please post them, it would be fun and instructive to compare. Alberto
This part I find interesting as I'm about to have some work done myself and I see that you're going to have the interior redone but without the car present? I'm having a couple of seats repaired and one of them was already done so poorly that I'm wondering if the car should be there so that the upholsterer can achieve better fitment?
