Started Repairing Window problem today

Brewman,

The answers you seek lie here http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/46232-348-door-wiring-connector-repair.html

I just did my windows using the methods shown in this thread. I did what Brent Lachelt did and used two different colours for the two different gauges of wire. My windows, door locks, lights etc... now work flawlessly. I do not have accelerators to boost the speed but with the new solid wiring they move fast enough and don't strain.

my348.com is your friend....my friend

Good luck be patient and most of all enjoy the fact that you did it yourself

Cheers!

 

I like what Brent did, and would like to tackle this issue as well on mine, but I am a bit confused:

1) was all the wiring replaced in the door jamb, or just a portion of it?

2) If just a portion, which part of the factory remained and which part was replaced?

3) How do we know where to use 14 gauge and where to use 18 gauge?

 

As long as you're in there, might as well do it all. You will be able to tell when you look at the wires which are thin (18 gauge) or thicker (14 gauge). Most are the thinner... there's just a few of the heavier gauge.

 

Understood - however, I still don't understand where I am supposed to cut - do I remove all of the factory wires? Or just a section of them?

 

No, you're just getting rid of the plug and socket. When you remove the liner from the front fender and find the bundle of wires to the door jamb, cut those wires an inch or two back from the socket. If the copper of the wire ain't shiny, cut it back 'till you get to decent copper. After you remove the lower outer door panel, cut those wires an inch or two from the plug. Drill out the plug and socket or get rid of entirely. Now you need to connect the wires together, so your connecting wire grafts will need to be about 20" long. Then comes the tedious part: solder appropriate sized wire to stripped car wire, put heat shrink over that, run it through the hole in the door jamb and door, put heat shrink tube on the end before connecting to door wire, solder to correct wire, slide heat shrink over that joint and heat it. Repeat about 25more times. I ran my wire through the rubber accordion boot between the door jamb and door to make it look better.

 

Alternatively, replacement pin connectors are available at your local electronics store, as is the pin removal tool. Use a high-dollar crimping tool.
Pins: caltronics pn 66590-1
Tool: AMP pn 305183 ($30)

 

I used this post in the forum to order my parts to fix my connector as I didn't want to hardwire everything.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/140528887-post25.html

 

That will give you the factory correct solution, and you'll win points at the concours. I suspect over time the opening and closing of the door will eventually cause further problems. If you want to have the ability to unplug wires and remove the door, you can get some generic male and female multi-pin plugs at Radio Shack and use those to do the hook ups inside the door. Just be sure you get plugs that will fit through the hole in the front of the door. I think the 6 pin connectors fit through fine.
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I was trying to keep the male side in place without replacing them. The female ones from RS were a bit too big.

Hopefully I get her back in a few days and can get that one connection for the RH down button to work.

 

Excellent, this is exactly what I was looking for, thanks very much.