Installing my new Diff

On the really thin ones, watch out for those rough edges as this can give you false readings on thickness.

 

as robert have written, be carefull with the edges, not only on the very thin ones.

but now you have a nice weekend job to do

 

They are very versatile, I have two to play with.
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A wire EDM does a nice job on shims also.



Ago

 

what is a wire EDM?

 

Electro Discharge Machine ?


P

 

Nice looking shims.. beats hand cutting and filing.
Related question.... anyone know the torque requirements on the bolts for the flywheel?
Couldn't find it in the manual....
Thanks.

 

Thanks Scott. Appreciate it. Meanwhile... back to your thread.

 

Yes it's a form of Electro Discharge Machine where a circulating live wire (very thin) is used to NC (Numerical Control) cut the material similar to a band saw. Commonly used to make extrusion tools, fine blanking tools and anything with a 2D geometry, provided the material is conductive. There are machines available that can actually cut a 3D profile.

Laser is obviously another option but the heat may affect the thin stock. If I had to choose a method for this application, water jet would be the way to go. It's quick, precise and low temperature.

 

thank you for explaining sam.
in german it is called: erodiermaschine

 

Wire EDM wont leave any rough edges. I made many parts with it before retiring. It will cut very thick and hard electrically conductive material. It is accurate to within .0002 in. .005mm. It is a moot point , unless you have access to one. Very expensive machine.



Ago

 

what you mean under shortcut? I check this preload with a spring scale ( horizontal spring ? )

but you may adjust the preload for the pinion bearings separately to the preload of the diff bearings. one has nothing to do with the other

 

Could you not get a piece of tubing to duplicate the gear stack up for trial assembly?
Too bad we are not neighbors.


Ago

 

not really right scott

just now you have a lot of bushings ( no. 20 tavola 33 ) from both shafts in the gearbox.
so now you may meassure all the sizes ( red ) together and with those bushings you may go up to this size to about 0,5 mm. instead of the bushings you also may use a piece of steel pipe. but this has to be on both ends exact the same size. so you don´t have to put all the gears in. after you put then on the bearing no. 23 you take a secong steel pipe what will go on this bearing. the bearing no. 9 is not not needed to adjust the preload. when you adjusted the preload for the pinion bearings you may meassure the sizes between the first steel pipe and the bearing no. 19 or 23. before you had a space when you meassured right form about 0,5 mm. now after adjusting the preload you have less. so now you know exactly the size between the 2 bearings no. 19 and 23 what is needed for the right preload.

so the preload now is adjusted

next step is to have the right size for the cp. this you may try several times until it will match. but when you remove then on the pinion shaft shims or you reduce the thickness for example from shim no. 21 you also have to reduce the shim size on no. 8 with the same size to have still the same preload.

for the adjusting the crown/diff it is other: this what you take away from one side you have to add on the other side to stay with the same preload.

everything clear with my german translated to english
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If you sandwich the shims between two pieces of sacrificial plates will give you a better finish, ask for it to be cut on 120 mesh garnet.

 

thank you scott for updating.

the pattern now looks much better than before. so you are on the right way to fix it perfectly. but I also wonder about this what F have done during installing
just now I don´t want to change with you because of all the gears you always have to put in again and out.

 

Scott,
Does the outer tapered bearing race have to be pressed out of the case every time you try a different shim?


Dave

 

what you mean under "outside bearing"?
so the bearing in the middle or at the back, so where the pinion is?
the one in the middle ( no. 23 ) has to be pressed always, the other at the back ( no. 19 ) stays on the shaft.only the bushing no. 20 has to removed to change the shims. but this is easy

 

Thanks Scott,

Keeping all this info for future use.


Dave