Installing SRI Gold kit today - little help?

Is this the one? NAPA AUTO PARTS

It's a pig tail but you know how to removed the terminals now.

Also, if that's the right one search other stores for 1989 BMW 325i sensor connector. They were used everywhere, FI conncetor, CTS connect, idle air control valve connector, ......

NAPA is a little costly. The housing alone is a $3 part.

Also it's good to have a pig tail around since it come in handy for testing various sensors.

 

Maybe I got it wrong but how can one air temp connector cause all those problems? I see no way that can happen. I can understand the air temp code but not the others. But I'm not obd2 genius. Was the purpose of doing the gold kit to make a good car better or eliminate ghosts? If the latter...

The plug may truely be bad now but if you depin the plug and connect the pin right on the sensor you got connection. If you still get codes it is not the pins fault and the potential for you to have done the plug right is there.

To debug look carefully at everything done so far. If dave does not have the pluginstoc k you can try here: Electrical

Fix the plug with new. Then clear your obd2 codes. Then see if they come back. If this all started as a ghost chasing excercise then the best bet is to just complete the gold kit install and debug your car from there because you will have new ghosts. If ghostbusting you need to check everything 3 times making sure to get excellent crimps and no swapped wires. Try to use the repinning exercise as a way to eliminate wiring as a source of the problems. Trust yourself. There is nothing to this. Many of us have done this and you can too. You wire is either crimpped or not. Your wire is either in the right socket or not. Work slowly and methodically to make sure these two things are done and their can be no error. Your wiring will then be sound as it can be and you can eliminate wire as the source of ghosts.

 

Take your time and go after each code one by one. You will get a great understanding of OBD2. Dont get frustrated and freak out. OBD2 becomes easy and a great tool once you get into it's head. When they went from 1 to 2, I was so happy

Get your air plug done first.

 

Ok, if that is the case, just keep plugging away and finish the kit install to see what you get, then chase down the error codes one at a time.

What FBB means is to remove the pins from the housing and connect them together without the housings, thereby eliminating the housing as the problem.

Good luck.

 

Let's say the sensor has to male pins embeded in a female body. You put the gold female pins into the male mangled body and you fear that the pins are loose and not making good contact. So I say prove that it is the mangled body and extract the female new gold pins from the mangled body. Slip the new wired gold pins individually on the sensor in the proper place. You know you got contact and then you can clear the codes and see if the air temp code returns. A tug on the newly crimped gold pins and you guarantee a good connection of pin to wire. Therefore your code has to come from somewhere else like connection to the ECU, frayed wire somewhere else, bad sensor. You just can't leave the connection this way obviously because the connection is not secure. That is what the mangled plug is supposed to do...hold pin positions, protect, seal out dirt etc.

 

I believe you can probably wrap the bare gold connector with a bit of electrical tape to keep it from shorting to the next pin over, then just push it onto the male pin. Do this for each pin in the connector. This will temporarily get your car to run until your new plug housing arrives.

 

Seems like you are starting at the horses ass. I would think that before you start installing the gold kit you should be checking for bad sensors, wiring continuity, and finding out what all the different codes are for. P0154 is an O2 sensor code. It's pretty easy to pull and test an O2 sensor. Any code above P0999 is manufacture specific. I don't know if there is a resource that lists them.

 

Sorry but I think this has to be said.....Those not mechanically or electrically inclined should not be attempting this job.

 

THIS is a lively debate that done in this manner helps everyone involved with a better understanding of the problems and the systems, this is a Net Positive.... if only all of the technical discussions would go this way, so very much could be learned on here.

Ketel, I dont supply the plugs anymore but that doesnt mean I dont still have some 470 odd pieces of that part on the shelf from my initial order of them..... just a call and one is in route, simple as that. I have tens of thousands of connections and plugs that are no longer or never were supplied, but were ordered in to perform tests with to see if it was warranted. IF it is supplied, it has proven that it cant be done effectively without it. IF it isnt supplied, testing showed it has a high rate and reasonable expectation that "it" was not "Needed" to do the job.

Cost/risk analysis.... it was a terrible headache in the design given there was one infinite variable involved, the technical abilities of the "installer". It is for this reason that after a specific success was duplicated numerous times in our own shop, we needed it tested by individuals that were not so close to the design to make sure we could duplicate the results outside of our efforts. As Pro's, we have every tool imaginable at our hands, the car owners do not.... can the ease of install and the results we had noted, be duplicated with only the tools provided? Beta testers were chosen carefully, some with excellent hands on experience, some only knowing which end of the car was dangerous.... and from that we answered our questions on if enough tools were provided. Trust me, if my hands were not tied in regard to the 'cost', there are a great many more bits that would be supplied. When it comes to results, cost be damned, it gets included and the cost IS what it IS. Feedback is what has defined this kit and will continue to improve it.

Actually John, my experience shows that this individual ghost chasing technique is no longer (and actually never was) the most effective manner in which to fix these problems. Most are assuming that a given code is the direct fault of the component mentioned in the code, and that assumption is incorrect. That given code, as FBB correctly stated, is an indication that the ECU is not seeing parameters that it is expecting to see. This condition can be a problem with multiplicative values from a number of sensors not adding up correctly, grounds with high resistance, connections with high resistance.... or maybe even a bad sensor. Yet another consideration is the possibility that the failure was corrected but the codes saved in the ECU memory were not erased OR a relearn of all the operating parameters in the computer was not initiated so IT is forced to take a hard look at a whole new package of operating parameters to decide if all is well. Given time the ECU's were do all of this on its own (2.5 and 2.7 relearn the parameters each time the starter is engaged, the 5.2 takes many drive cycles). I will state that in the last 4 years I have not replaced a single sensor on any car coming through the shop, not a single one...... you decide if that statement has merit and who that it displeases or pleases. One can have shill's on Both sides or a debate.... I choose not to have any on mine BUT........

I am a Distributor for most all of the companies you noted as well as a great many more that folks have never heard about. I purposely did not have my name put on their dist. lists because I dont need the headaches that come with that..... this is plenty for me already! On a number of components, they simply can not be purchased, we Made them because they were not available at any cost.

As I already have a permanent standing on Ferrari's Legal Staff's Christmas Card list, I do not duplicate any of their drawings re sensor locations. It is in the WSM, prominently on the first page, and done so well that there is zero reason for me to attempt to improve it. Remember, if it isnt provided, there is good reason.... Ferrari doesnt take kindly to such things. We both put a great deal of effort into our own IP, we both protect it passionately and I can respect their position on that matter. Im not one to look for legal loop holes, I am already like Pigpen on Charlie Brown.... trouble finds Me plenty good already, I need not look for it!

 

Side note: Are you doing this work with the battery switched "off"? I hope so.

Take a step back and I'm sure you will be successful

 

Wow, if that statement also includes O2 sensors then it is truly a magnificent solution !

 

My mistake, yes I have replaced O2 sensors but only on 360's, not 348/355/550's. Aside of the consumable O2 sensors, no engine management sensors have been replaced.

 

I agree that if a code is thrown it is not necessarily a bad part. But it's not a ghost. A thrown code is an indication of a problem: bad sensor, broken wire, bad contact.... I guess it's just the anal engineer in me that says find the source of the problem before you start fixing it. Certainly replacing a sensor won't fix a bad connection any more that fixing a connection arbitrarily will fix a bad sensor or broken wire.

I must add that with all my cars (8) since OBD I was introduced every code I have seen has been accurate. Most recently my 2002 Toyota truck indicated an open O2 heater. A quick measurement of the sensor showed it was indeed the heater, not an bad connection or broken wire/bad ground. And as for my recently acquired 95 F355, it threw a coolant temp code and a 5 minute check showed that the sensor was indeed bad.

 

As an example, my car has a P0102 code indicating a bad MAF. I have replaced the MAF, wires from the MAF to the ECU, connector pins (twice), and even the Motronic ECU. I still get the P0102 code, so it must be something else in the system. I've been trying to troubleshoot this one for four years now.

 

Dave,

From your extensive experience with the gold connector kit, can you advise on the connector footprints that are in the F355 2.7? I need to build some test-debug cables (such as the ECU cable with the test momentary switch) as well as a Thermocouple 'fake' probe.

I was able to match the Metri Pack 150 2-pin female connector to the CAT ECU input, but the Metri Pack 150 3-pin connectors seem to be 'keyed' so that they only go in one direction. Therefore the male connector from Metri Pack does not mate to the female one that's already on the car.

Any thoughts or direction suggestion?

 

I was going to say that, but did not want to offend anyone.

Working with old, dirty, in situ, modular electrical connectors is almost always a "fiddle fest" at times. It does require a bit of skill, a basic understanding of electric circuits, and a general "good with your hands" person to do it efficiently. It is also a different type of skill as it requires someone to be delicate, as opposed to changing a car's oil or something more grossly mechanical.

But, with perseverance and commitment, I think almost anyone can do it ---- just might take a while.

FWIW, one could also go to their local salvage yard, pull a harness (with the connectors) off an older German car (Bosch system) and practice pulling / inserting technique on that --- so that mistakes / damage won't be as likely on the "real thing" .

 

I did the gold kit myself about 2.5 years ago.

Have not had a CEL since.

I did one to two connectors a night. Took my time, made space in the garage.
I removed the exhaust and air box assembly. Them decided to refurbish the fuel injectors "while there".

Getting my engine out done now and will finally do the ECU connectors.

Took lots of pictures before cutting.

Measures and loomed thrice before cutting and triple checked the pictures before inserting plugs.

It can be done by the average Joe. Read the instructions and do some practice connectors. I still destroyed 2 connectors and easily replaced them (one was a 5-pin from VW... (Bosch)).

Worth every penny, IMHO.

I think I called Dave once..


Kai

 

I think everyone should read Dave's post #62 again. There are many truths there.

John, These problems have been going on for decades and only increased in magnitude as the cars got more complex. There are many problems that have been identified and no need to rehash them here. Other makers don't seem to have these problems and when they do the "recall" system seems to fix the problems. Once the Ferrari is out the dealer door you are mostly on your own. SRI is the only company to solve them. Your fixes are the way it should go but not the way it does go on the fleet. Most are ghost busting real codes not quite telling us exactly where the problems are. Unfortunately most real pro shops are still using stabilant-22, electrical contact cleaner, and dielectric grease products and replacing parts on our nickel. Ferraris just suck. They are not wired like a jeep where you can ford water and keep driving. In a 348 you got wet if you drive in a light rain. In A 550 you can't even wash vigorously with a hose for fear of nucking your entire electrical system! I have just about debugged a 2nd 550 with that exact unfortunate scenario.

Kai and others I strongly strongly recommend everyone do the supremo part of the gold kit which is doing the ECU connector pins. On 550's we get water corrosion in there due to Ferrari engineering prowess. And EVERYONE gets oem female ECU plug pins separating and making poor contact to the male ECU pins. How do you guys like this picture? Today, I have just pulled another pair of 550 ECU's today and the ECU plug pins are spread and taken a "set". This is a real source of "garbage in garbage out" that is eliminated with the gold connector kit.
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I bought the kit a couple years ago. I planned to install myself, but after peering into the engine bay, wire cutters in hand, I completely chickened out. I am not a caveman, in fact I am a physician, but still felt overwhelmed when I considered the scope of the task at hand, and the potential damage which could be done.

In the end, I waited until my engine-out service, and paid my maistro to install the kit for me. It went well, but even he had a learning curve to the installation. He is not keen to do another, last I asked.

Were I to do it again, I would plan a road trip to Boulder, CO and schedule an in-house install by Dave's crew at SRI. They have done so many that this would probably be a one or two day deal, and I would get a cool road trip out of it, plus the opportunity to meet the Master himself, and to thank him personally for all his dedication to the marque and the solution for many of its inherent flaws. I doubt my own Ferrari tech would feel "cheated on" in that instance.

Was the kit worth it? I think so. My car ran well before, but with the kit seems to run a lot smoother in the mid-range. Idle is smoother than before. Just passed smog test easily (but had to swap back to stock cats in order to do so--Fabspeeds do not cut it at the test station). No warning lights for a while now.

So, Ketel, or anyone else contemplating this kit, I say do it. But don't be afraid to ask Dave about a visit for an installation in their shop.

John

 

Glad you're getting the hang of it!! Glad you have a more realistic time frame for completion. I was thrilled when I did my 2nd ECU plug in 90 minutes, and that's with the new plug so no old pin removals, so it's not a one day project.
Question to Dave Helms: just curious, how long does it take your best tech to do one of these?
Comments to others considering doing the kit:
1) If you have a bad back, think twice about doing it with the engine in. You're going to be spending a lot of time bent over with you're head buried in the engine compartment. Get some good fender covers too.
2) Aside from the crappy plugs and the short length of the wires on the car, I was also disturbed to find a fair amount of wire corrosion inside the insulated wires. If I was trying to strip a wire and the insulation wasn't coming off easily, usually when I finally got it off, the wire would be a nasty black color instead of shiny copper. Not sure if others have found that or not, but it sure can't be optimal for transfer of electrons back there. If there was sufficient wire length, I would keep cutting back wire 'till copper color was found, if not I just cleaned it off with the little wire brushes supplied in the kit, but worried about the crap inside the insulation that had not been stripped. Don't know who supplied the wire for Ferrari at the time, but they should be shot. If I was a metallurgist, I would take a piece of wire and get it analyzed, I'm suspicious there's more pig iron than copper in there. Between the engine harness, the door-to-body connectors, and the climate control computer, the electrical system of the 348 seems to be it's weakest link.

 

Delphi supplied the harness on my car. Good 'ole made in the USA