Oh PS if you do the lights you have to tuck the bumpers to the body. Not sure if this is a big deal but I suggest it is probably a bit of a hassle but not too difficult.
The conversion will be reversible but will leave a few traces noticeable to the trained eye when doing impromptu yoga under the bonnet. I wrote to Thor earlier that from the photos on ferrarichat comparing US and EU front lights I think one can conclude that the supports for the sealed beam lights are welded on the body front section. The EU supports are mounted with 3 bolts (fixed on the supports) with nuts on the inside. The holes need to be drilled. Then, for the adjustment screws that you see in the right top corners of the EU supports you need to grind off some metal from the body too. It seems to me that you only need the EU bezels, lights and supports. I would go for the conversion (incl the bumpers) since the car is outside the US anyway. The EU setup is more robust and looks better.
Things have been rather busy lately, so I haven't spent much time updating my blog. However tonight I uploaded a few more pics, and will try and post more this weekend. The full story here: quattroporte3.wordpress.com Comments are welcome!
No affiliation either. The 440 car was on ebay a few weeks ago. Here's a photo in the motor bay: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hands up those of you who's cars have sagging sun visors... Well, I opened one up this evening to have a look. Disappointment met me. There is no adjustment mechanism at all (many cars have a small grub screw to adjust tension on the metal post), and the plastic clip that attaches to the roof was broken when I received it. The seller claims it must have broken in the post, but I've never seen anything so well packed and protected from shock or breakage as his package to me with the "non sagging visors" - which as it turns out... sag. My leather guy says he has a few ideas as to how we may be able to adjust it to tighten it up, and I wanted to ask if anyone else had tried anything that worked. I'm tempted to replace the cheapo innards with something more lasting and befitting the quality of the car as it was intended. Thoughts? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ha ha, hand up here too. I gave up and did this (photo below), as a temporary solution that might go forever. Looking at your 1st photo, I would now consider to drive a pricker into the metal that surrounds the axis, so as to make it glide less easily. This might work the same as the grub screw you are referring to. Image Unavailable, Please Login
We should make a proper solution for this BUT instead of a screw hook, what about a velcro attachment. It would be unseen when the visor is not in use but could hold the recalcitrant visor in place. This is quite useful on carpet mats on new cars.
Looks like something that was farmed out to some terrible little shop in the Modena area ... The PO of my Espada tried to fix sagging visors with velcro but the glue on the back side eventually gets too hot, comes off and leaves a mess. The Italians seem to have loved using cheap POS visors on all of these posh cars ... A few hours of careful attention, bending and re-positioning of the clamping piece on the shaft has made it much better but nowhere near what it should be. Looking at these they are far better that the junk in my Espada. I think you can work on these a bit unless its the corner mount that's the sagging part? The ones in my 90 Q45 did that. It's a part of the charm of these cars right?
Indeed, as is the crew hook as far as I am concerned. I will execute my own suggestion though and report back.
Gents - Expert advice needed. The glue they used for the engine bay diamond vinyl on the bonnet/hood had not survived the heat. They must have used interior glue. So QUESTION - What glue can I use on the engine vinyl material. I will also have to take off the old glue so would appreciate suggestions. I am going to DIY this so please give me the benefit of your expertise. Best W
I'd send Al an email and ask him what he recommends. He'll be reattaching mine as well, as it's come loose around the edges.
Ok well we need a solution then because it was ALSA that put the glue on in the first place. I need a high temp glue also.
Anyone know what the black diamond material is made of? I found this glue and it is high temperature but it warns not to use on PVC Vinyl. Looks like a good product Fast-Fix Xtreme is not suitable to use on the following: Heavily plasticized PVC vinyl. Polystyrene.
3 or 4 new entries in the last few days, trying to catch up to where the car is today. Next week she'll spend at the doctors (mechanic) for various checks, tune ups and other assorted maintenance, while the other body panels (doors, trunk, hood, bumpers) are prepped. The week after she should be ready for paint. Comments and feedback are always welcome: quattroporte3.wordpress.com Thanks!
Reading here and there, one could get the impression that Maserati cad-plated certain parts or details in their cars. I've noted how in the Khamsin thread, brake calipers were originally painted gold (or cad-plated?), and saw recently this old for sale ad where part of the bottom of the QP3 were claimed to have originally been cad-plated. An exquisite Maserati Quattroporte, SOLD by Californiaclassix.com! Does anyone know for sure, or could contribute pics of their cars and what was plated and what was painted? I'd like to get things as correct as possible.
Hello Quattroporte3... That was a very nice site... The silver QPIII appeared immaculate!!! Nice to see a car in such good condition. Gives us all something to strive for... As far as cad-plating goes, I think it might depend upon the year of the car... Based on the pictures of the silver car, which is an 82 like mine, I would only consider plating the carbon canisters and the power steering reservoir. These appear to be the main items under the hood for a 1982. I do know the fuel pumps and the pump bracket are also plated, but could just as well be painted, as no one sees them. Mike
I did. I am emptying the engine bay and re-plated everything that suffered from corrosion. The brackets are all cad plated. This week I hope to collect everything I put in the 'basket' and I'll put a few pics on the forum... I gold-painted my front break calipers, which is probably not original on this car but looks smart.
I was mostly concerned with bits under the car. From the picture, it looks like the emergency hand brake, fuel pump bracket and fuel pumps are plated, not much else. Maybe details around the springs/shocks? My engine bay is pretty tidy already, the PO did a good job and had several parts re-plated, including canisters, brake booster and many brackets. Neat idea painting/plating the calipers, but I think it will have to wait until later. One project at a time ;-). Are they visible at all from outside the car? As I recall there is a metal plate that separates the rims from the brake area on the front wheels. Still, sounds like a cool detail! Yes indeed, the car in the link did look extremely well cared for!
Moved from one of the restoration threads.. The subject was tires for the QPIII. The rational thing to do is to get the T-rated tires for everyday use, but that's dull. Another option is to find some modern, relatively inexpensive performance tires that fit. The dimensionally (near) correct big sedan tire in this era is the 235x55-17 and there are about 40 suppliers of Z or higher rated tires in that size. Now you need inexpensive wheels to match. The QPIII uses a 5x114.3 (5x4.5) bolt circle. I measured the offset to be about 47mm. Surprisingly there are plenty of 17x8 wheels that would fit (need to check center bore, though). Most of the OEM wheels are from 7-8 years ago and the style isn't really appropriate, but there are a few that aren't too far out of character. One I like is the BBS wheel made for the 2007-2009 WRX STI. The offset is 53mm, but a 1.4" spacer would fix that. The ESM001 aftermarket wheel is similar to the original. Its offset is a little too shallow, but maybe it would work. Compomotive has several that are appropriately "Italian Intricate", but that's getting pretty expensive for this daily-driver exercise. You can always keep new XWXs on the original wheels for shows. Kept in a cool, dark place, they'd last much longer. So - that was the "interesting" idea, FWIW. Larry
That may well work for the US, but for any country requiring a DMV/MOT roadworthiness certificate, it most probably won't. I checked recently and was told very specifically that the tire rating must match or exceed the vehicles OEM spec and/or given top speed. When I called a tire place to ask if they could sell me something else, like T rated tire, they said they weren't allowed to. Actually I really like the factory alloy rims, they suit the car well and fit with the style the rest of Maserati's cars used from the early 70's on. I saw a QP3 with wire wheels, now that's something that really didn't look good at all! If all you're going to do is flip it and just want to drivable, sure go for cheap T rated tires (doesn't even need to be the exact size) but definitely keep the rims on it.
Anyone make any progress, or have any ideas as how to prevent the sun visors from sagging (aside from velcro and metal hooks - no thanks!)? I'll ask my trimmer again what he suggests.
