I could not find much info on changing brake pads on a Scud so I made one myself. This simple video shows the right front pad swap. The rears are similar, but there is no cross bolt to remove as they are only 4 piston calipers. I changed the OEM Pagid pads for the new Pagid RSC1 pads. Trying to save the CCM rotors a bit with these new pads while at the track. Will likely swap back to OEM pads for street use. Scuderia 16M Front Brake Pad Change Comments and suggestions are welcomed!
What did you do, mount a gopro to your face?? I've owned my 360 for less than a year, and I hate the brembo pins... not that they are a problem, I just think there are different systems out there that are better suited to frequent pad changes.
I put a Like comment on the Video (Melo user id is me). Did you record a disc thickness so you can compare how much better these Pagid pads are then the original pads on the discs?
Eye of Mine HD video glasses. You just wear them like regular glasses and record. Took longer to remove and install the wheels than it does to swap pads. How many pad change will the pins sustain before they need to be replaced? Easy and quick. Yes, recorded both. OEM pads have lost 0.7 mm in 4200 miles (garage queen til 2000 miles, then spirited street and one track day). Rotor thickness is unchanged from factory new specs.
I don't know about the pins... I've done maybe 10 pad swaps and they were still fine. I assume yours are the same just bigger. I couldn't easily find replacement pins alone.. But they were still doing their job keeping things in place. I really like the bridge system on the stoptechs that I have in front now...
It struck me as the pads were coming off that they had loads of "meat" on them. Why change with so little wear?
Because they are supposed to be more gentle on the expensive rotors especially if you drive the car at the track. My part 2 question is why swap the back for the street? I know some people do that with performance pads on steel rotors but I thought that was mostly due to the squeaking. I don't switch my track pads back to streets between track events on my track Porsche car. But I don't drive the track focused Porsche car on the street very much.
Changing out OEM street pads for pads better suited to track. I am going with the new Pagid RSC1 pads as they are supposed to be similar to RS19's but a bit less wear on the CCM rotors. Will likely swap back to OEM pads after the track event. Also something to keep in mind.....never go more than 50% wear with the CCM setup. That is apparently very destructive to the rotors.
Most of 4K miles on the street. Only 1 track day on the OEM pads consisting of 5 separate 20 minute runs with cool down between.
Thanks for sharing. FWIW, I use a brass head hammer instead of a steel one for the pins, as well as a brass punch. There is also a two-paddle tool for spreading the pads/pistons that works better than the single paddle one used in the video. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Contact MArtin at Girodisc, big supporter of 360/F430 brakes and owner of GiroDisc in Washington State. He has the best pad spreader in business, I use it all the time.
Yes, no doubt the best, and really quick. But it's $225! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry if these are newb questions, I have an F430 w/CCM's and I'm considering installing the same pads (Pagid RSC1) as my OEM pads are toast (19k miles, 7 track days being gentle with them). I've never swapped pads myself before, but after seeing friends swap pads at the track on other cars, and watching this video, I'm considering it. My question are: 1. Will any standard brake cleaner work without fear of ruining the CCM rotors? I've always heard not to get anything on them, even if it says it is safe for steel rotors. 2. Did you open the brake fluid resivoir before spreading the pads? If so, any concern about it overflowing? Anything else that may have been assumed that the video didn't cover that a total newb might need to know? Thanks!
Can't help with No.1 but if in doubt don't use the cleaner product. Maybe just wipe down the calipers and don't touch the discs unless someone can actually recommend it. No.2 - unless you've topped up the reservoir while the pads have slowly worn out then the fluid level should only go back to standard and only then if you change all the pads to new. I generally change one at a time and then pump the pads back into contact with the discs before I move on to the next one. This minimises the risk of overflow. Changing pads is easily done (particularly with the video in this thread) and satisfying to do yourself as you can detail the wheels and inspect the tyres thoroughly as you go.
Thanks for the reply. The pads have worn over time (3 years) and I've had the brake fluid flushed each spring, so I'm thinking I will need to be very cautious not to overflow the reservoir. I may need to take some fluid out. I like the idea of doing one at a time and pumping the pads back into contact with the disks each time to minimize the chances of overflow, thanks for the suggestion! Anyone else know about the brake cleaner spray and CCM rotors? The video clearly shows this being done, looks like a standard brake cleaner spray. I could skip this part, but if it is safe I would love to get things really cleaned up.
For some reason on my Safari browser the video skips from around 12 seconds (as you are talking about the size of the socket) right to the end. Hmm Alan
