Friends, My 308 GT4 is undergoing its annual fluid change and check up. I noticed some fluid dripping off the right side steering rack. I assume as its in the drooped position. There is some oil on the boot so going to rebuild it. Wasn't there a guy on here that had rebuild kits including the custom made derilin bushing? Is there a preferred rebuild thread, this is one of the services I have not completed, mainly out of finding someone to align the front. Not many shops I would trust to do that near me, but guess I will have to find one. Thanks for any input in advance
I have had this link saved - I do believe its the exact same rack as a Pantera. I am sure there are other threads, but knowing you, the more information the better! Pantera Steering Rack Possibly a Pantera shop is a good option for the rebuild kit? I just got my rack out and fitted one of the new racks off the internet - went in fine but no experience with it yet. Uprated to the new rack mounts too (being an earlyish car mine had the old mounts. Have fun!
If the bushings are still good you might want to consider leaving that area alone. If you do decide to replace, get bronze ones. Delrin is a waste of your time, you will be replacing them again. Rocco at 416 686 8700 probably has them Gerrit
I had John Haller do mine (JH355). I wrote about it here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/189851-suspension-rebuild-begins-then-some-3.html JIM
Freinds, I had John Haller rebuild mine also and it looks great. I really wanted to do it myself, but after talking to him I realizes he had the tools and equipment and experience to do it better than I could. It took quite a while to source the parts for the new rack mounts. Peter was kind enough to remove my old bushings for posterity from my old mounts. I think these new ones are quite a bit taller than the old ones and am sure they will be more difficult to install. I think the smart sequence is to put the rack in with all the parts on but not tight, then attach the spline to the rack then hook it up on the inside to the column. Let me know if you think I am wrong! Here are a few pics for your enjoyment. Thanks to all who helped! Rob Thanks to all who helped Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks nice! Mine are overdue for the same thing......be VERY certain that set bolt in the column makes it into the keeper groove, at the spline clamp, if not the whole thing can come apart in your hands.
Thanks I will do that, the bolt is very delicate down there. Boy I wish that was the least of my worries! HAAA I am still freaking ou ove aligning the steering wheel having someone align it! Yikes!!! and my bent QV rear wheel! If you do this be prepared to spend a fortune on rubber bushings and metal tubes. I bought the whole shebang. I never knew so much money in parts could come in a small priority mail package!!!!!
The main thing is to center the wheel, before you dismantle it all.. But they will do that on the final realignment, if it goes on the Bear machine straight, they'll work the tie rod ends until the wheel track matches!
Actually with the parts off my wheel is spinning freely (isn't that Judas Priest song!) which is pretty weird! Thats what I am afraid of I dont want anyone touching it. I am thinking of wrapping my wheel in saran wrap I have that ultra rare F1 suede wheel on my car. I am also scared of hacks there is no one in my town that even can change a tire decently!!!!!! I swear if I had more room I would buy a tire and balancer....... Supposedly Carl down under can do this with some string and a ruler.....
Anither thing to watch when installing the rack is to make sure you have the correct amount of turns to lock either side
I just put a brand new rack my 308's and was pondering whether or not to center the steering wheel lock to lock, or set the tie rods up with equal amount of thread so that bumpsteer would be equal. I decided to keep bumpsteer consistent. Anyone else thought about this? My other 308 seems to have equal length setting on tie rods, and not equal turns lock to lock ... ended up about 1/8 turn difference. I also found a u joint that worked in the lower spot on the column. That had a ton of slop in it. Did your guy rebuild that too? If so what was the charge? Side note the new rack had an external preload adjustment which was way too tight ... after I reset that I'm pretty impressed since it was brand new and probably made in China, although I could not see made in China anywhere on it. I put it in my driver/autocross 308 even though it didn't need a rack ... I wanted to see if it was junk so the clock is now ticking. I also put stiffer 328 rack mount bushings in my car. I've made some molds to make urethane ones but just haven't got round to it. cheers
I was lucky my universals are like new. He did put the outer tie rods on exactly the same length as the old ones. I think if I put the rack in center the discs then put the steering column hooked onto it straight it should be very close to centered. Once again who knows what the alignment guys will do....
Based on the glowing reviews by Brent and Paul after installing this both reported that this single upgrade may be one of the best things we can do for our cars. Based on that I too went for the upgrade. To be balanced it has also been commented that due to the ratio change it does increase real low speed effort to turn the wheel. I don't think anyone reported this as very significant or a reason to switch back.
Paul Newman in Ontario, Canada. Haven't gotten my car back yet as there is some other work being done. Sorry could only give report of what others have said. If you want to there are threads that mentions this change. Crowndog's Adventure ( my car) and the restoration of Brett's car which you will need to search for the title. But I just noticed that we are talking about two different cars. 308s vs GT4.
Peter Thanks now all I have to do is get it in it looks like a tight fit. Wanted to do it today but had other chores! Thanks for your help, you are a true friend! Rob
That's like saying a Ford F-150 with a 6' bed is a different truck than a F-150 with an 8' bed. It's the same truck. The 308 GT4 is mechanically the same as a 308 GTS/B. Extra upholstery doesn't make the steering effort more/less difficult.
Wasn't sure if both cars used the same rack as I know there were two different one's used and have no idea when the change occurred. Actually three but not sure if just the names changed or two different makers: Cam Gear, TRW, ZF. I do not claim to be an expert in this topic but gave feedback on what I have heard and read on the 308. I understand the suspensions are basically the same just shorter for the 308 but am not sure the components are identical or the weight distributions which might also effect feel at low speed.
Update: turns out TRW bought out Cam Gears in the mid 80s so I guess they are all the same just the name changed.
Oh my god! The new one is bigger and getting all the nuts tight was as hard as removing the old one. If I knew what I know now I would have got new bushings and put the old guy back in. Too late now and will try to hook up the steering column tomorrow. It went in easily but you have to leave the passenger side mount off until the rack is near in place! Will post some more pictures
Friends, I spent all day trying to hook up the steering colum and came to an empase and decided to seek your experiences. I took a while to get the final part that attaches to the rack piñon #7 on Tav 32. I thought I could not get it pushed down enough to expose the groove where the bolt goes turns out I had passed it up, I backed it off and there was the groove! Any way that was not hard. I then went to install 28,29,30,31,32,33 on Tav 32. This is where I had a problem and spent all day. There is a hole in the forward bullhead where #28 goes in and the ball rides on the shaft #7. #29 bolts up from the bottom and I could not get it to fit flush, as a tube coming from the top carrying the accelerator cable was obstructing it so it would not bolt up flush with the bulkhead and was resting about 1/8" against the tube. I tried everything I could and switched all the pieces 180° but that did not help. I assumed since I had the new rack mounts the rack may be a bit off from the oriiginal hole, but the shaft #7 was in the center. I even loosened the rack in the mounts and it still would not fit. It turned out I took the ball out to see the two pieces could fit but even with the ball out the #28 & 29 would not fit as number 29 was still obstructed by the tube with the cable even though there was nothing else affecting their conjoining. It must have been this way when i removed it as with the ball out, the two pieces hypothertically should have had no interference from the rack shaft #7? It is only about 1/16 to 1/8 an inch off and I am thinking of filing down the slot in the front bulkhead lower so that the #29 can clear the tube. I am curious if any of you have had this problem. I think this was the way it was when i took it apart, but I did not have a photo of that lower part and how it fit. I want this to be perfect as the steering is crucial and I have gone to so much trouble I might as well make sure this fits. I can't imagine this is how it was but considering my trial fit without the ball and no interference it must be??? Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Friends and Mentors, I came home tonight determined to fix this at least in part. To recap the bottom plate that secures the steering shaft through the bulkhead did not fit flush with the metal bulkhead as it had interference from the metal tube which the accelerator cable runs down from. I am posting pictures to show first the obstruction, then the shaft through the bulkhead which was centered. I tried every which way to get the two plates to fit and even removed the shaft and it still would not fit. I dont have a picture from before disassembly but it must have been this way originally as no amount of fiddling would get the bottom plate flush with the metal bulkhead even with the shaft and ball removed. I tried filing a bit off the inside left groove to make it lower and took about 1/8" off and still no luck. I removed everything again and made a round cut-out in the bottom plate where the tube was interfering. I fits perfect now and can't imagine why they did not take better care at the factory, but I think this ball once secured only function is to secure the inside bearing on the shaft. I feel this was the only solution to the problem. I did not want to mess too much with the alignment cut-out so this keeps the inner and outer plate about where they were, the shaft is centered and the bottom plate snugs up against the firewall. Has anyone else had this problem Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
