Installing SRI Gold kit today - little help?

From reading many posts and agreeing with many comments on both sides I feel everyone on each side should agree to disagree. That being said I personally felt the kit was not that much money compared with many other oem parts, it was well put together, questions I had during install we're quickly answered, and it worked to my satisfaction and beyond.

How it worked really doesn't bother me. I cold not find another kit which is available, did not have the time to source what kind of pins were needed for each connection, did not know what kind of crimpers were required did not know where to get the release tools or which ones were needed for which connector. What I liked was with a bit of ability the kit was installed and did improve things, it did give me piece of mind, it did help me get to know the cars electrical better which may help diagnose other issues in the future. Finally even at $10.00 /hr I would have spent more money just replacing with tin/tin connectors and had no support from someone who has shown me many times through their posts how to fix or trouble shoot issues in the past.

I equate it to the hill tensioners I installed when I did the engine out, the were said to be better by many people who had much more experience than myself and I was not about spend countless hours arguing over the engineering flaws particularly when they were less expensive.

Ps. Did I mention the kit worked for me.

 

If it is not too much to ask John and tf308 to share their qualifications on working on Ferrari's it would be greatly appreciated. We know Dave has 40+ years working both as factory trained dealer and independent mechanic, but I think we all would benefit from them sharing their qualifications and experience so that we can make an informed decision on whom to believe. They could be very qualified, we just cannot make an informed comparison at this point without more information.

 

I don't know. Ferrari design or limits of the white bosch plug? It is the plug that determines the pin type. Pinout on ECU appear all the same size IIRC. I never bothered to take a close look. In the past I have opened up motronic ECUS to swap eprom chips. It may be possible to remove the pinout strip electroplate it with gold and satisfy the gold bugs. Something as simple as a home electrolytic bath can do the job but you would need someone who knows some electrochemistry to predict proper gold deposition thickness etc.. The larger tin double wings are failed too. Something happens to those jaws too. none of the jaws are parallel anymore. One side is more open than the other leaving uneven clamping force and notebook paper slides though with no resistance. PM me your address and I will put them in the mail to you.

 

It would also help if Dave would share his qualifications on designing, manufacturing and testing electrical connectors. We know that AMP and NACE engineers who recommend against gold and tin has combined hundreds (maybe thousand?) years of experience designing, manufacturing and testing electrical connectors, but I think we all would benefit from Dave sharing his qualifications and experience so that we can make an informed decision on whom to believe. Dave could be very qualified, we just cannot make an informed comparison at this point without more information.

 

That is a silly ridiculous statement. So what damage will a gold pin cause? First we have never seen it. Second the worst case is that we are going to replace a TPS or a crank sensor which your mechanic was going to replace anyway during the typical FNA part replacement solution? Third, worst worst worst case you cut the gold pin off put a tin one back on and replace the tin sensor? Where is the doomsday? Post #402? You guys make me laugh!

 

guys....it is not about DAVE! it is not about SRI!

I even like that the kit works....but lets get focused back on these little connectors.

FBB has 2 piles of them.....I want to get a BETTER tin connector to attach to MY ECU. If we solve it....then WE have the choice.

PUT the GOLD in yours if you want....but lets help get a good Tin connector.

FBB has offered to help.

(I am dying to just open mine up....but...I know that it puts one more cycle on mine)

 

I don't feel like going thru ~500 posts, but can someone direct me to how we know that the stock F 355 connector plating is "tin" (other than it being a silvery color) and not something else (like, e.g., some sort of nickel-palladium alloy brew)?

A quicky internet search on the performance, reliabilty, and reuseablity of tin-on-tin connectors makes me think an Engineer would have to be insane to select tin-on-tin for an underhood Motronic system.

 

+1000 This has never been personal against anyone; however, when someone makes ridiculous claims that counter every known scientific theory that have been proven without providing any proof of their own, they need to be called out..

 

STeve.....glad you could finally join in!

Apparently the AMP engineers say that using a GOLD/Tin ecu connection is "insane". So I am interested in your use of the word , "insane" to describe the opposite.

The motronic ecu connector is TIN (on the module itself)

 

Dude We are driving our proof.

If the gold kit ever stops working I will let you know.

Keep up the hatchet job we are only at page 24 of this nonsense. oops page 25 woohoo!
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I agree +100000000000000

I get insulted that within their replies they even bring up his name. I am simply trying to bring objectivity back. I really want to find the root cause....

 

Billy....instead of the hatch job pic....

how about taking pics of the connectors. I thought you were up for helping?

Why and where are the 2 types of connectors.

 

Where is your proof of damage?

Shouldn't you start there before embarking on a crusade bad mouthing a product that has made EVERY known user happy?

Where is the proof?

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof.

Show us the proof that the gold kit inflicts damage.


Until then you appear to be a disgruntled and pathetic Internet poster and keyboard jockey,


Show us the damn proof of damage or shut the **** up. You are getting boring.


Kai

 

How about proof that the SRI kid doesn't work?

Why not start there?


Kai

 

Hmmmm....who would have an interest in discrediting a solution we have found to many of the Ferrari's electrical problems? Dealers? FNA?

 

+1000

 

YOU PM'ed me! Look in your email box. You want it public that's fine. I do not know why Ferrari used two sizes. They just are 2 sizes. Here is one and here is two. Notice the gaps in the TIN pin with the double wings which should provide more clamping force.
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OK...lets start w what I asked Billy......not your opinionated reply.

We can then put tin ecu on my car. we can put gold on your car.

in 20 years we can see if you need a new ECU...Im sure FNA will love you.

 

that is interesting Why Ferrari would use 2 different types....??????.....

Clearly the connector on the left is just a bad idea to use. The idea of the connector on the right is that the 2 side "fingers" should provide the clamping force. Interesting that it failed.

Thanks to FBB !

It's possible that the strongest connector on the market only comes in gold.....

possible that the SRI variant uses thicker metal.

 

Also....the intent is not to discredit what you have done.

It is possible that the clamping force is so high that there is not vibration....and no fretting type corrosion. It is possible.

Like many have said....which I do understand....if it fixed your problem, then you are in a much better place. And seriously, I am really glad about that.

IF there IS proof.....we will not see it for YEARS to come.

 

I don't understand why you would be so insulted at the mention of Dave Helms professional technician who successfully fixes these cars. He has only tried to help us. While most techs have gone into hiding everyday those techs who post here must grow a tougher skin. When we bash our technicians they leave. Is that someone's real agenda to silence those with answers to our problems? When was the last time we heard from rifledriver on a technical post? These techs aren't gods but they deserve some respect. They know a few things about fixing these cars even if some Fchaters have PHD's in engineering. One of the first things you learn in graduate school is you don't know everything. God gave us 2 ears and 1 mouth. Maybe it was to listen twice as much as we speak. I'm going for a drive now...
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John, 30,000 mi on a 308, OH BOY! So that's what? 1000 mi a year. I drive in God's country John, you know the Wild West where there are still places to drive where the only thing around that I'm endangering is my own life. Now I have to explain to you what "drive like a man" means. Jees John get a clue. Drive the car out of your comfort zone, go places far and wide where if you break down there's no one but you and the wildlife. If you feel that you have no "worries or troubles" about your car holding up then this should not be a problem for you. I mean really, 100 mi trips are my coffee runs.
I'm driving like I drive now because my car has been fixed, completely by SR. I drove my car prior to 3 years ago like you drive yours now. Not straying too far from home because well you never know. In the back of your mind I believe you're thinking the same thing.

As stated numerous times before build a better mouse trap and the people will come running. And by the way those hoses he "talked" me into buying will be the last the last things standing when you, me, and our cars have gone to the great beyond. Your hoses, not so much.

If you think Dave is going to give you the blueprints of what, and why, and how then you're smoking what is now legal in Colorado. Don't like it, don't believe in the "science" of it, easy, don't buy it. For the rest of you out there who are watching all of this, just think you too could be driving your Ferrari like I drive mine. And that folks is driving nirvana.

Steve

 

+ 1 million

Bingo!! Plugzit my man you have hit the nail on the head. Oh and let's add private shops.

 

Well Tim we got that cleared up you do own a Ferrari (no personal attack intended dear boy just utter frustration). Now for the real question, do you ever drive it, you know for more than 100 mi at a time? Drive it like I drive mine and after that if you have no problems whatsoever, then get back to me. Maybe you have that one car where everything works perfectly forever. It's easy to say your car runs perfect if it never leaves the garage.

Don't insult me about ignoring science. If you have published research papers you should know that parameters of the paper are set and followed and should be repeatable. Change one parameter and your results can change drastically and that applies to gold and tin. That's a scientific fact Tim whether you like it or not.


No you 2 have never said it did not work but suggested matter of factly that the whole package together does not work, i.e. clamps-yes, wiring-maybe, whatever, gold-absolutely no way in hell does this make any difference at all in how your car will run or how reliable it will be and absolutely-positively probably some time down the road in the future at a time yet unknown it will all just disintigrate right before your very eyes. We who know gladly accept that.

Make a better one Tim like I told John and they'll all come running. But of course "yous guys" can't.

 

Listen friend.

We are not talking twenty years in the future

You are here NOW making a claim that you can't back up.

YOU claim that we are damaging our cars and/or the kit does not work.

Prove it.

If the answer is 20 years in the future then today day you have nothing and are just stirring up **** without proof.


Where is your proof TODAY that the kit doesn't work?


You don't have any. All of you are theory and claims but no proof.

It's not "opinion".

You have zilch, zero, nada, no evidence that the kit is not working.

We have every known user telling you the ,it is working but you claim it's not.

The burden of proof is on you, not us.


Kai