Help please!!!!!

It could be a failed catalytic converter. Broken down matrix blocking the exhaust.

 

Air filters or something sucked in the intake?

 

Not as familiar with the 328 but it looks like a pretty standard cis fuel injection system.

If the exhaust isn't plugged from a cat that disintegrated, then its going to be fuel not making it into the cylinder, lack of spark at the cylinder, or bad air mixture in the cylinder.

If you're in the country and there's nobody around at all to fix ferraris or hours on end, a shop that can fix early 80's Porsches should have the tools to diagnose and fix things on the car. It's pretty reliable technology and in the end its usually something simple.

 

What version 328? US (black fuel distributor), euro (silver fuel distributor), euro "converted" for US importation, something else? Please also add this information to your Profile.

This is normal for the "stock" muffler (it's asymmetric inside) and meaningless on the US version 328 (because the exhaust streams are completely mixed together before the single catalytic converter).

 

could also be an ignition problem. You could be losing a bank of cylinders. These cars are reported to be able to run smoothly on 4, but with significantly less power. If you have a catalytic converter in the car you don't want to drive like this.

 

Knowing the version helps limit the complexity of the answer to questions like that. What version 328 do you have?

 

Good point. Too much fuel into the cat could kill it. Pull a plug or use a timing light on each bank when running. If intermittent ignition loss the timing light might be tough. Didn't know about the exhaust... interesting.

 

Could be a bad fuel pump or a clogged up gas tank - especially if the car has been sitting for a long time. Same thing happened to me with a 3500 GT Maserati on a drive home from pick-up at the docks. Cleaning out the gas tank of the gunk solved the problem for virtually no $.

 

JMWO, but possible clogged/dead fuel injector. Your symptoms sound very similar to what happend to my Lotus Esprit 2 summers ago. Would run, but not rev or hold idle.

 

Step away from the panic button; it's not likely going to send you to debtors prison to fix the most likely causes.

Describe your injection system for Steve or post up an engine bay picture to get the best assistance in diagnosing.

Research consumer protection laws in your state and find out if that "AS IS-NO WARRANTY" statement on the window sticker has effect where you live.

And, re: removing the cats, I wouldn't jump to perform that labor yet. Check that you have spark on both banks.

 

Well if it had no cats then I then I'm with what the other guys have said. I would have suggested looking at cat ecus, but I don't know if your car does or doesn't have them. That and you said nothing about slow down lights. So check the ignition system and then the fuel system.

 

P.S.- Welcome to ownership!
May this speed bump be minor and resolved quickly and painlessly so you can enjoy the driving satisfaction of your 328!

 

A HA!

Well that changes everything.

Do you remember what side the slow down light came on? If so, swap the cat ecus from side to side and see if the problem jumps sides. If the main ecu gets an over heating signal from the cat ecu it will shut down the bank of cylinders it "thinks" is over heating. So that very well could be what caused your engine to run at half power.

So swap the cat ecus from one side to the other and let us know what happens.

 

It requires a small (relatively inexpensive) tool (called a "Spark Tester") that you can pick-up at an Auto Parts store or online -- does that...discourage you?

Since you have a US version 328 (even if you don't solve this problem yourself), I'd recommend that any Owner of your version/model (K-Jet with Lambda) learn some simple tests that you can do in a tux in an emergency and get a lot of information:

Learn how to unplug the safety switch. With this unplugged and the key "on" (engine not running):

1. The fuel pump should run and you can listen for a smooth hum and a smooth return flow to the tank;

2. Feel/touch the frequency valve -- it should be "buzzing/vibrating" whenever the fuel pump is running.

Give a shout, if you'd like to DIY further, if you find no spark on one bank.

 

Wrong model E-bone -- US 328 is mono-cat (and only 348, and later, have "bank shut down smarts" associated with the overtemp system).

 

If you do a search on "frequency valve safety switch", and read those ~25 threads, that would be a good start to your F technical education/indoctrination