Since getting my car operational (almost), I have been going on short drives, testing the waters, making sure everything is working correctly. The first few drives were fine. On the last drive (went up some hills), I sprung a leak on/around the sumps. Not too bad, but significant enough to feel like I should address it. The only thing I can think of is that the gasket replacement went awry. It was my first gasket replacement, so this is totally possible. So-- I ask: How much gasket is 'too much'? Should I be leaning on the side of 'more' or will this cause a problem, other than a 'mess' when I tighten the fasteners to the sump cover? When I put the sealant on, I hit both sides, with a layer covering the entire gasket, with focus around the stud holes. This is what I deduced needed to happen, based on aggregated intel from this forum. If I put more, will disaster strike? Just want to understand the car's tolerance for these things. Thanks!
Not IMO -- likely to do better with better surface preparation and a "better" sealant (and you don't want a bunch of cured sealant "worms" inside a lubrication system with small critical orifices). Are you talking about the gearbox sump or engine sump gasket? What type sealant did you use? Being continuously-wetted and submerged-in-liquid joints, they need better attention than a typical top-side valve cover gasket joint on a 60's US small block.
Yes. And, yes. Although, I'm not trying to source the problem, yet. Trying to determine how much sealant is 'too much'. Doesn't take much to swap out the gasket.
I always say the least possible. Sealant is only to fill the imperfections between the 2 surfaces. Properly cleaned surfaces should only be a couple thousands of an inch apart in SOME places. Make sure you go around the studs too. Like Steve said you want to avoid those sealant worms. I once replaced a customers engine with the pump strainer clogged with silicone worms.
In that case I would check the pan for warpage. If you cleaned the surface and used a new gasket and let it set for 24hrs. and have a signufucant leak there must be more wrong than what meets the eye. Lost
What Steve said - true mating surfaces is the critical issue. IF gasket sealer is necessary, just apply a smear of it on each side of the gasket - NO thickness at all. I don't personally use silicone gasket sealers and haven't for many years, preferring this on everything nowadays. Specialty Gasket Makers : Permatex® MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey
And a stock, or quasi-stock, gasket at each location? How did you apply to the joint? Applied to gasket and then film+gasket applied film surface to metal? Were there any instructions on the product or product packaging? The instructions in the 1184 tech info .pdf are weak/useless IMO. One thing I've noted is that Threebond 1194 (with "solvent") is still available on the Threebond Europe site, but only the newer? Threebond 1184 here in the US -- might not be helping...
The green stuff: Klingerit One side of the gasket. Applied that side to the cover. Applied to other side. Installed cover. Not much. Maybe, the product Mike996 suggested is the jam...? Specialty Gasket Makers : Permatex® MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey I am going to pull the pans. Check to make sure they are true-flat. Take it from there. Whatever gasket "setup" that was on the car before was DEF not OEM-ish, and prolly was used as a bandaid cause the pans were uneven. When I did it correctly - or I think I did - it exposed the real issue that was being vovered up. OR I have no idea what I am talking about and I don't know how to put on gaskets. (^^ Totally possible ^^)
Im at airport, but I use a 3M sealant that never fully cures, stays a tacky tar. Its a gasket maker for aviation, nary a leak. I'll get the number tonight when I get back in. For flanged non gasket surfaces it works great too, though I prefer anearobic sealant for that.
No, I think that what you did was perfectly reasonable, but it's a very difficult application (and it wouldn't surprise me if the "greenness" of 1184 vs the older 1194 isn't helping things). Although both Threebond 1184 and the Permatex that Mike posted seem more directed at gasketless joints between quasi-rigid housings, either should work here. Attached is the 1184 tech info .pdf from the Threebond Japan website -- it does recommend joining the pieces within 1 minute (same for the MotoSeal1) , and I like it better when I rub the sealant out of the tube onto the metal surface when it's truly liquid (so I do like seeing the term "solvent" in the Permatex product description), but don't see how you could do that well within 1 minute. May be best to put a very thin film on both the metal surface and the gasket surface on each side -- i.e., mating a skinned sealant film into another skinned sealant film rather than a skinned sealant film into a metal surface (but no way to do that in less than 1 minute) -- just a thought... Good Hunting! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Before you pull the pans are you sure its leaking from the gaskets or is it seeping down the studs? If its the latter it maybe some dowty washers & nylocs might solve the problem.
Well-- Before I pulled the pans, there was no leaking. I cleaned up the covers, replaced the gasket, ad I have a leak. I added sealing washers, and nyloc fasteners, a while ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
That's above my pay grade, and not my homework Don't have anything particular in mind, but already mentioned two things that I'd be looking for: "solvent-based" and with an extended working time. Can't suggest anything other than to search the sealant manufacturer's websites -- Henkel (Loctite), Permatex, etc....
Does the area that connects the block to the engine have a cavity that contains oil? Trying to source this leak. Although, I am 1737292916447191% sure it's a failed gasket installation. Thanks dudes. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
Hmmmmm... maybe it's just me, but that leak looks like it is coming from above, not through your new gasket. There is discoloration above the gasket, and it looks like the oil is running down. Before you go and pull the pan and re-do the gasket, you might want to clean up that area really well, especially up higher, and see if you can figure out where it is coming from. Just a thought.
Did you not see this thread?: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/419308-gear-oil-leak-308-engine-mount.html Per FIB suggestion -- rule that in or out before redoing the pan.
I had a hose leaking. One of the two under the air box. I was curious why my 'oil leak' 'splattered' under the car. I'm confident that's what is making the oil move and drip, aggressively. Oddly, the trail of coolant traveled down the engine and ended at the same place the oil is coming down. I caught it by looking at the splatter marks under the car and realizing there was no chance that was oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
I've never used it. There's something sort of impersonal and too easy about such a product, I prefer getting overly messy haha.
