I need to take the engine out of my 328, would anyone know the weight of the unit please.
I looked into this when I took mine out - the concensus seems to be between 250 & 300kg. If you are trying to figure out what kind of engine hoist you need, the answer is a big one! Unless you have access to an overhead / block & tackle arrangement the biggest problem is getting a crane that has a long enough reach. The one I used was a standard 2 ton affair & even that would only just reach on its maximum extension when placed at the (left) side of the car. It wouldn't get anywhere near it from the rear. That meant I had to remove the rear wheel & put the rear of the car on stands (and in fact put the front wheel on a block as well to get the legs of the crane under the car if I recall). So the car was immobile which is maybe not the ideal. Out of preference, if I was doing it again I'd either try & find somewhere with a block & tackle or find a much bigger crane that could be placed at the rear of the car. Other than that, usual procedure applies, remove everything you can including rear exhaust manifold. Disconnect the front manifold and leave it behind when you pull the engine out.
I seem to recall that the weight of the unit, with and without the transmission, is given somewhere in Dirk-Michael Konradt's book; I don't have it at hand right now, but I shall look this evening. I have 165 kgs for the engine alone ( = without transmission) in my head, but I may be wrong; and about 260kgs for the full unit. I'll check and revert later. Rgds
When we pulled the engine on my friend's 308 QV a few years ago, and then my 308 (essentially the same as pulling a 328 engine), we had the same problem as Iain with the length of the boom on the engine lift. My buddy Paul fabricated an extension for the lift arm from a steel beam, and it was a charm. It extended the standard engine hoist boom by about 2', which gave us the extra reach that was needed, and it worked perfectly. If you have the car up on jack stands, you may find that you can't get the legs of the hoist in far enough to get the lifting point directly over the motor, which you definitely need to do. Also, get a good quality leveler. We had a cheapy from one of the "freight" companies and it was an SOB to turn the handle to tilt the engine. A good quality adjuster is well worth the money.
Thanks for the answers, I will be using a block and tackle as I have an RSJ in the garage to lift from, the weight was for the size of engine stand to buy, I guess this engine will bolt onto an engine stand without a problem ?
~550lbs dressed & dry. I've probably had to ship a dozen or more, they'll fit in a 1m cube btw. That's on the lighter side of drive trains considering that also includes the gearbox and differential.
engine alone, easily. most stands will support 500~800lbs and the engine alone on the 308's is a paltry ~200lbs. I can lift and move the engine (less heads, now it's down to ~150lbs) onto the gearbox by hand, faster and easier then trying to use a hoist.
O.K, that answers the question (550 lbs is "about 247 kilos"). Coming from someone who handles these regularly, that's the definitive answer. Nevertheless, I'll do my home work this evening in the book I spoke of above, just to see what I have. Rgds
Lift it via the 5-8 bank, it comes out angled. Wrap a thick hoist strap under the exhaust studs and around the head and pull it right out. 500lbs ish like Scott said. He has probably done this more than anyone I know.
That bit's simple - a big strap round the front head and use a leveller as well. Make sure you've got enough height above the thing to lift it clear of the car before you start! (and above all, protect the rear window!)
don't forget that you also have to loosen the exhaust manifolds, hoist up just off the mounts then remove the motor mounts, start to rotate, free the manifolds then proceed to remove while rotating, tip the diff towards the ground, you'll end up with the front bank (cyl 5-8) level with the horizon. total tilt in degrees 45. shoe horned in is understatement. One reason why I prefer the models where the subframe with lump falls out the bottom in half a day.
Gentlemen, Pretty useless now, but nevertheless: figures given by Dirk-Michael Konradt in his book "Autos, die Geschichte machten: die Ferrari 308/328" Motorbuch Verlag, 1990 Engine weights: 1975: 180 kilos (it is not said if it is a wet sump or dry sump engine) 1981: two-valve Injected: 181 kilos 1986: 3,2 liters engine: 186 kilos As it is not said whereas these are: engine + transmission, less anciliaries or engine + anciliaries less transmission, these are pretty useless figures, but: I have done my homework... Rgds
I could not find the weight when I searched before I pulled my engine, so before I put it back in I weighed it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bobby, A few pictures to give you a idea. Robert, Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's awesome, I've been simply working off the shipping weight provided by the customs lot a couple yrs back. haven't been corrected yet, probably doesn't matter but for shipping via pallet I just use 550lbs. I've got a piezo scale but it's limited to ~350lbs I should weigh out the block sans heads. biggest weight difference is in the cranks, the 360 crank is at least 10lbs lighter then the 308 one, now that I think of it if I get the time I'll weigh out the 308,328 & 360 crank. I do know the block without liners and studs is ~50lbs add in steel liners and it jumps to ~70lbs depending on bore.
I am now quite looking forward to taking the engine out, and the picture showing where to lift, fantastic, thanks for all your help, I am sure once I start I will be asking for help again, kind regards, Bobby.
+1 yep... mine was over 600lbs fully dressed too. one heavy hunk of a drivetrain by todays standards. for reference a 355 motor no transaxle is significantly lighter listed 375lb dressed without exhaust manifolds
You'll notice that in one of those pics the strap goes behind the cam belt cover & in another its over the top of it. The consensus seems to be it doesn't matter which you do.
I guess you are right, it is heavy by today's standards, but coming from the world of cast iron, I was impressed with the package when I put it in. 600 Lbs for an engine, tranny, and diff.
