Removed my sticky parts and dash today and found some suprises.

+1.

I agree with Robbie. That looks much more like paint which was applied too thickly AND failed to properly adhere to the surface. Remember plastic is porous and will retain minute amounts of the chemical you use to remove the OEM finish if it is not completely removed which is, at best, an extremely difficult process, frequently requiring an organic solvent.

Not to piss in anyone's Wheaties, but this is why I let Robbie and Stickynomore refinish my interior parts. The prices of these plastic pieces of s*** have gone through the roof and they are always highly visible. While I, like many of you, love the satisfaction and challenge of doing my own work, there are somethings that are better left to individuals that have mastered the required techniques. Like Clint Eastwood stated in the movie Magnum Force "...a man's got to know his limitations".

I realize that quite a few individuals have done really good jobs of refinishing their interior parts and I give them all the credit due them. However, only Robbie can get these parts to not only look OEM, but actually look better than OEM - with the benefit of NEVER having the sticky mess return.

Disclaimer - I have absolutely no financial association with Stickynomore.

 

Wait a minute, is that AFTER repainting or AFTER cleaning?

 

Yes If I did not go for the soft touch paint I would have sent them out. Next set I am sending out to get done for sure. Time + money in the shop

 

It's only paint guys. If I can't pull the task off then of coarse I will send the job off. As far as that spackling effect . I agree it was probably a residual reaction cleaner/plastidip.

 

I made several tests and altough many here love plasti-dip. I just didn't trust it. I went with a textured paint and I'm very happy I did...the parts look great and the finish looks durable and strong (even after 2 years)

 

I sent my parts to Robbie as well. 2 day turn around. I love doing things myself but I did not want to invest the time with the trial and error needed to develop a perfect process.

Plus, I was not thrilled with the idea of overspray in my garage, basement, or kitchen LOL

 

Absolutely!

 

I went a different approach for a tool for reassembling the switches. Place the switch in the tool with the contact tabs at the bottom. The spring loaded pins are squeezed between the tabs sticking up on each side of the tool. Squeeze the tool to hold everything in place and insert the switch in the top cover. The tabs on the tool will slide into the gap between the switch body and the cover. Once the spring loaded pins are inside the cover piece the tool can be removed and the switch snapped in place in the cover. Sorry, no pictures. But I think this is a better way to do it.

I didn't need to do my parts because they were all replaced with newer OEM parts a few years back. But I figured they would get sticky sooner or later.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Had the wife yell at me for weeks because of the fumes and smells in the house...Lol

 

Women just don't understand these things....that kitchen oven is great for baking parts

 

lol

 

You mean like this?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

To be honest, I took that pic to get her riled up....took out the parts and then did another full wash cycle of the dishes but her face when she saw the photo was priceless!

 

Steve here is the clear I used on the switches....FYI
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yep I purchased the wrong stuff. FYI people. Don't screw up on the plasti dip or you have yet another fun job lol Ty

 

Did you find any handwriting? Like a body number perhaps?

 

The number of the body was for those small ones. So, no I didn't...

 

So I had my parts cleaned and cleared for painting and got the Krylon 2421 satin black which is primer + paint all in one.

Since time was running short I took the pieces to a paint place where for $60 for 5 pieces (three trim plus the top and bottom steering column cover) they are redoing them. They're also taking the vents apart to be able to paint inside of them.

Just before I took them I masked one of the vents on the outside - the idea being that if you want to paint the inside you can do that without laying on a thick coat on the outside; then when the inside is all done, two or three light coats can go on the outside/front of the vent.

 

It also looks like that area the paint is much glossier because it's thicker. Compare that to the top left side of the picture where it's the satin finish that it's supposed to be.

As such, could you use sandpaper to bring the gloss down to a matt/satin level as the rest of the vent?

What do you experts say?

 

I just painted my door switch fixing plate and the fixing plate for the three switches for the seats and top. I tested the textured black krylon and the rustoleum black satin. I went with the rustoleum. It looks great. I will go with a black satin just a tad bit lighter as to create a bit of contrast. ever so slight contrast. I used treedee3's process and the textured paint like he did on my steering column. It looks great but feels like crap. So, I might redo that with one of his other examples.... Now with the weather moving in . There is a guy in town that will recover my dash for me so I will be using the step by step for dash removal. Should be interesting...