Oil Smoke, possible sources to check.

Oil level a bit high?

 

I hoping that it's Tim's suggestion

This situation is where I'm a believer in using Marvel Mystery Oil (or at least just engine oil) sprayed/fogged into the cylinder and a little manual rotation to "gently reawaken" a long-term completely disused (never rotated) engine. Even then, it can still be unrecoverable if local corrosion has scarred the cylinder walls/rings enough, but F do have a crankcase vapor control (aka PVC) system (usually called "blow-by system" in the F documentation). Before doing the functional leakdown/compression tests, one easy thing that you can do is disconnect the oil vapor line feeding the crankcase vapors into the intake tract to see if the volume discharge is unreasonable and/or if there is an unreasonable amount of liquid oil condensate in the intake tract just downstream of where the oil vapor line connects. If not = maybe not much you can do but hope things free-up/wear-in at the rings. I'd probably try running some % of MMO in the oil for a while before resorting to the actual teardown. If so = check your oil level ...

 

Italian tune up before you tear it down. You have nothing to lose.

 

Don't forget to warm it up before checking. The manual doesn't call for the car to be all that warm, but I typically check mine at the end of every drive, right before I put the car away.

 

Porsche and Ferrari need to be driven hard, at high revs, in order to burn off the carbon in the engine. You let it sit for way too long, and crud has built up inside. You now need to drive it hard, then do another compression and leak down before you pass judgement on the engine.

 

A compression and leakdown on a motor that's carboned up is useless. Do like yellowcab says. It invariably helps ultra-low mileage cars.
It was fine when you put it away. Your answer is here. It's simple.

 

Mark,

Take the car out on a trackday and run all day at 6/10ths-8/10ths and then test the car. I think these cars should have occasional mandatory trackdays. These cars run better after a good workout.

 

In the '50s it was normal to have to pull the head and "decoke" the tops of the pistons because the cars ran too rich and lots of unburned HC built up.

Where does carbon build up on an engine that is not running?

I have heard of the rings seizing to the cylinder bores, but what are you referring to exactly?

 

To me trying to burn off any carbon or other build up in the combustion chamber does not make any sense.

Why would this build up, if it exists cause an engine to burn oil?

So I would strongly advise against running it hard no matter what the problem is, as it is unlikely that will fix the problem.

Like the poster above, I would suspect a ring problem, more exactly an oil ring problem.
I have not seen rings seize to the cylinder wall, but they do rust and stick to the piston and lose the seal to the cylinder wall.

A leakdown or compression test will not show this.

But there is an easy check I would start with


As I do not know your level of expertise I have to ask.

First are you sure the smoke is oil? Bluish color Burning oil smell?

If it is Remove the spark plugs, if it is burning oil, the plug(s) will be covered in either burned oil or wet oil.

If it is just one cylinder this will tell you which one to turn your efforts toward.

This is where I would start, if you decide to do this post the results.

Good luck

Dan

 

Excellent.

If it were a valve guide seal or valve guide, I would expect to see Smoke, Burning oil, under deceleration. You did not indicate that symptom.

I am not sure how just sitting would cause either of these to fail.

Dan

 

I am assuming it sat for a couple of years from your description. Isn't it more likely that everything dried out and wouldn't valve seals be the most likely culprit?

 

holes in headers are proving, now that so many cars have had this, there is now an appropriaqte sampling pool: the tear down AFTER a 20-25K valve job-followed with volumes of smoke at tail pipe under a variety of loads and conditions, has revealed a distinct trend...
when heads are removedTHE FDIRST time, it should have been more carefully examined in all holes which had exhibited porous headers, as there is a scorching of the NIKASIL which can actually seen clearly by the layperson...
no matter how well you do a valve job in a 5-valve head, and it is a difficult job-if the nikasil has been compromosed, the ring seal is, essentially, shot...
the fix is either a replacement of the liner with fitted piston and rings with pin and clips
Yes, individually has proven adequate so long as other liners do NOT exhibit an IOTA of compromised surfacing...barring this somewhat cheesy approach, a full tear down with a new set of rings at the MINIMUM, along with properly recondition NIKASIL treatment and sizing to the exact tolerance of the MEASURED PISTON(IT is WORN, AFTER ALL)
It is also highly likely that the cat has been comprom ised if the NIKASIL has been burnt...
think of oil and pottery glazing as an appropriate comparison...
good luck

 

335s, are you saying that the root cause is the excessive oil pass through & burning from the top end, and this oil burning causes the surface of the Nikasil to become "glazed"?

So the valve guide issues with these heads can also cause issues in the short block?

Do you have pics of a liner with a compromised Nikasil surface?

 

Oil smoke on deceleration generally indicates valve seales. Oil smoke on acceleration or under load >> rings.

Also, once the heads are off have a leak down done on the block to check the cylinder liners/rings.

 

what happened to having a look inside the suspected areas... there are bore scopes available everywhere these days... better than guessing on the need for a full tear down...