348 engine out major

Tore up from the floor up. This pad has seen better days and will be getting replaced.
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This setup is why I couldn't compress the tensioner to get it off.
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This fitting has notches on it that lock it on place as the tensioner moves out.

I don't know if you can make it out or not but, there is a little down pictured on the inside left, of the hole, that the notches lock against.

What happens is, as the pad wears it allows the spring, and oil pressure, to push on the tensioner, keeping the chain taught. Since you don't want the tensioner to loose pressure the fitting locks it in place, helping to prevent the tension being lost and the chain jumping off.
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Here is a pic of the lock fitting, spring, and plastic pin that are inside the tensioner housing. Just so you know that little spring has hardly any pressure. My understanding is that it's the oil pressure that does the work of getting the tensioner forced against the chain.
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Here is the hole (pictured in the center, the other two are the retaining bolt holes) on the block were the timing chain tensioner get inserted. You can see inside the hole and on the left the oil galley.
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This end of the tensioner and the little hole at the tip gets the oil pressure from the oil galley in the block, and into the inner part of the tensioner housing.
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Then the oil pressure transitions into the back of the tensioner pad support, and pushes the tensioner against the chain. At least that's my Stooge understanding of it.

I know this info isn't really needed, but I'm an inquisitive type of person, and thought there are some out there that may find this interesting..
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And a shot of the housing with the manufacture and a patent number.

Renold France
Brit. Pat. Nº 1.018.211

I wonder if this part and tensioner can be found on another application?
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Back to the major.

I got ahold of the shaft on the top sprocket and the thing wiggled right OUT of the bearing!
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As you can see this is most definitely the original bearing, as is the roller bearing type. It WILL be getting upgraded to the ball bearing type.

Man oh my I got lucky with that. Had that thing come out during a full throttle blast, or a dyno pull, I would have SURELY grenaded the engine.


SHHHWWWEEEEOOOOO!!!! That was a close one!
One more reason to the list of why I will not be pushing the major 9.5 years again.
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Trust me, I have spun my fair share of cuss word during this.

 

Here is a shot of the inner bearing race still attached to the back of the sprocket.
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And a pic of the roller bearings, and the bearing cage, removed and on the work bench.
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With the bearings removed I need to get the outer race removed from the block.

Using a pilot bearing slide hammer I removed it from the block.
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Not that I will use this style of bearing again, but here is the manufacture and bearing number off the OLD and OUTDATED roller bearing.

SKF, 2nu02EC
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I'll be back later to post more stuff.

Meh!

Let's keep this thing rolling.

 

I need to get the inner bearing race off the back of the pulley sprocket before I can install it.
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I clamped a bearing puller jaws around the back side of the race.
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Screwed the posts, and the bracket for the bolt, to the jaws of the puller.
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Screwed the bolt in, then turned it with a wrench until the inner bearing race was pulled off the back of the sprocket.
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Here is the new updated ball bearing and manufacture part number. It's interesting that they printed the numbers on the outer diameter of the race.

SKF, 6202-Z/C3
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The back of the bearing, which gets installed towards the block.
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And the front of the bearing, that gets installed face out, towards the timing chain.
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I inserted the bearing, as even as I could, into the block.
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