Before I fit the drive pulley I insert the woodruff key into the drive pulley shaft. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rear cam belt cover for the 5/8 bank of the engine gets slid behind the tensioner bearing. It's easier for me to do it this way because I don't risk bending up the cam belt fence on the drive pulley, trying to fit the cover after the pulley is installed. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Index the drive pulley so that the keyway in the pulley slides over the woodruff key, and push the pulley onto the shaft. Here you can better see what I was describing. The rear cover is just wide enough to create an issue if I were to try and install it after the drive pulley had been secured in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
To hold things in place I just threaded the ring nut onto the shaft by hand. I'll tighten it down later. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now for the idler bearing. I made sure to remember to put the washer on the back of the idler first. Then I put it in the mounting hole. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I gently tapped the bearing to get it started into the mounting hole. I only do this to get the bearing in the hole engine so I can thread the retaining bolt in. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Once I have the bearing shaft in the mounting hole enough for the bolt to grab some threads, I then tighten it down. I use the bolt to pull the bearing into the hole as it gets tightened. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now I'll go back and tighten done the ring nut for the drive pulley. I snugged it down by hand first. Then I put my lower powered impact wrench on the lowest setting, and gave the ring nut a couple of blips. Best I could tell this ring nuts is made out of aluminum, and I didn't want to strip or split it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
From experience with the BMW version, the plastic ones are less likely to damage the housing internals or cause problems in the case of failure. BMW just came up with a better nylon version. The suggested replacement interval is every other major or 7/10 years depending on your preference, or if it shows signs of weeping. Interestingly, mine did after 6 years so we changed it. We always error on the side of caution where water pumps are concerned, because its really bad when they fail and replacing them is an engine out event.
We have a bizillion miles on the fleet of 348's and the waterpump impellers are not a problem. A questionable source or questionable quality on a timing cover bearing is a problem. Ferrari is known to not stand behind their stuff. That means "we" either have to engineer alternatives (in comes Hill Engineering and SRI) or change our maintenance schedules if using known weak parts in the supply chain. I don't think there is an alternative so sometimes you need to just go with it. But you take actions to mitigate risk.
Ernie, is there a torque rating for this ring nut, or do you just tighten it slightly better than snug? (I know it is not gorilla tight)
As far as I know those were the originals from the factory, as was the water pump and drive pulley bearing.
When I pulled it off it was on pretty snug to a little bit tight. I'm sure there is a torque rating for it. I just put it back on by feel.
Another impressive thread Ernie! Now I feel even better about doing this myself! I know my belt was changed but that is all I know. So, the plan is to dig in deep like you did. Is your car up and running yet?
Speaking of. Before I put the cams back on I found top dead center for the #1 piston. I used what I had laying around. Took a piece of wood and drilled holes in it so I could mount is on the bolts for the valve cover. From the bottom valve cover bolt to the center of the spark plug hole it was it was roughly 3" (76mm). I drilled a hole in the wood to hold the extension centered through the spark plug hole, and on the top of the piston. Image Unavailable, Please Login
