I need a voice over artist! I love the narrators calmness and reassuring voice. It's the kind of voice that could say 'Ladies and Gentlemen are port engine is on fire, but a stewardess will be round to serve tea momentaraly.' and I'd be calm Anyway the quality is well......but the info is simple to understand if you take it stage by stage in your head. I'm swatting up as I have just purchased a zine plating kit to do the injectors pipesand other stuff with. Have Fun! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk]Bosch K-Jetronic (CIS) explained - YouTube[/ame]
I need a voice over artist! I love the narrators calmness and reassuring voice. It's the kind of voice that could say 'Ladies and Gentlemen are port engine is on fire, but a stewardess will be round to serve tea momentaraly.' and I'd be calm Anyway the quality is well......but the info is simple to understand if you take it stage by stage in your head. I'm swatting up as I have just purchased a zine plating kit to do the injectors pipesand other stuff with. Have Fun! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk]Bosch K-Jetronic (CIS) explained - YouTube[/ame]
If you need to replace any of the black nylon injector lines I have plenty of spare which I am unlikely to ever need. Which reminds me I still have Iains "Verell" fitting tool for these lines, must get it returned!
Yes from Verell: Unobtainium Supply Co. - HOME Its a great tool, really works well. Although he recommends using 3mm bore tubing for the injector lines I decided to use the same as original, 2mm bore and the tool still works for this but the end of the tube needs to be warmed up with a hot air gun before pushing the barbed end with the tool. These black tubes are actually quite tough and the originals have a relatively thick 2mm wall and I dont think they really need to be replaced unless they have kinks or scuffs etc. The tubes to/from the WUR have a thinner wall as they are a 3mm bore.
Cool! I have it only on paper. Bought a repair kit for my Bosch Fuel Distributor 3 days ago for 70 USD (50 euro). Yes, I will get my hands on it sooner or later
I cant help thinking of the spoof science series "Look Around You". They got the deadpan narration off to a tee: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMEPnKYX5C0
What a great piece that combines great flashback video with my current life and times of 80's Ferrari ownership. I've read the Probst book twice. To me it shows the primitive brilliance of the early engineers of FI systems. And after owning and working on these for a few years it means so much more. I'd told someone the other day that the accumulator helps soften the pulses of the fuel pump and was relieved to see that I wasn't wrong according to the video.
Yes I've done that Heavy Metal experiment a couple of times at home, never thought to look outside for the scissors though. Many thanks Andy for your kind offer.I think my pipes are fine, I'm just going to remove them from the fuel distributer, clean them up and electroplate them which is a cold process as you know.
Another Bell Bloke classic. Excellent information. Thank you. A few months ago, I purchased Charles Probst's epic, "Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management: How to Understand, Service and Modify". A real page turner. I was so enthusiastic, I recommended it to my wife's monthly Ladies Book Club, but they did not seize the opportunity. Now that I know how it works (err, generally speaking), I find K-Jet's simplicity kinda reassuring. I like it now compared to those complicated new-fangled eelektronik systems.
Ha ha, Brian, the first time I watched it I thought what a load of old bosch, but then I had a couple stiff ones with a Castrol RS chaser and slept on it. That night I had a dream, and when I woke up......I still didn't understand it. However last week Emily asked me how my fuel injection actually works in a practical sense. Since she is rebuilding her X19 carb at the moment I thought I'd better man up and watch that video again. 'I now have seen the light!' I understand it fully.....I think.
Be careful the next thing you know you will have your warmup regulator all over the bench as I did. Like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've done that repeatedly but my scissors never look like that. Maybe it's the construction of my house, either in shape or material?
Is your pyramid made of tin or zinc? Pyramid construction material is also critical+everything must be deionised first within the immediate conductive range.
OK here is my thread: Step 1: Take it all apart Step 2: Clean the parts Step 3: Put it back together Step 4: Check you dont have too many parts left over. Is this enough or more detail required?
I've considered trying to overhaul a WR as well. I am curious, since you are ahead of me with your project there.....was it even possible to complete Step 3 ??
I did this a while ago and unfortunately only have that one picture. The problem I had with it was the control pressure was fluctuating all over the place. This turned out to be caused by the diaphragm valve sticking owing to some crud on the small plunger (the round part slightly above and to the left of the 4 screws in the picture). Note this is a Euro WUR. USA cars are different (as usual!). The bi-metallic strip has a contact attached to it. This cuts in/out part of the heater element, so that there is a high amount of heating while initially warming up, then a lower amount of continuous heating once warm. I have not seen this feature mentioned in any CIS write-up or the Probst book. Things to be careful of: When removing the base be careful not to tear the green rubber membrane which is sandwiched between the base and body. When removing the contact/bimetallic strip assembly note how far down the threads on the mounting pillar it is located. If it ends up being re-assembled higher or lower the control pressure will be wrong. The round diaphragm is a piece of stainless-steel foil and is very delicate. Great care needed. Dont attempt this unless you have confirmed by using a CIS gauge set that the control pressure has a problem. Also before diving in unnecessarily, make sure the contacts on the connector on the top of the unit are clean, as a bad contact here would cause the control pressure to be wrong and the engine to run rich.
I tried that once but with a metal cone instead of a pyramid. I ended up getting an oil derrick rather than a pair of scissors. Profits from oil production were great, until it faded away and I had to pay taxes on it. Oh well.
