we!! it does it for me . here are the new tail guns installed . still have yet to apply ANSA stickers ... Gary Espada 8394 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
In the Jarama I have a special quick-disconnecting connector at the negative battery terminal. The only drawback is that in case of an incidence you first have to stop the car and run around to the trunk. That is why I am thinking of something like that but with a remote control, best wireless. Would also be a quite effective immobilizer. The heater (including warm water) in our house gave up just one day before Christmas. The pump as well as an internal piping going leak at the same time (funny coincidence). While I managed to obtain a replacement pump the same day (not easily though, because these guys want repair jobs - no, not actually repair jobs, but part replacement jobs - and not just sale of parts; his argument was that if he now sells his pump to me, he then would no longer have one in case of an forthcoming emergency *loooool*), the piping was available just from the factory by order only. Delivery time estimated somewhen end of January . So I spent the first Christmas Day dismantling the heater unit, replacing the pump and finally soldering the (water) piping, which had gone bad due to bad factory soldering of two fittings (German quality product, obviously). After my wife and our holiday guests had been asking whether I indeed believe to get that fixed and the heater properly reassembled again, my wife finally declared me a hero , but only just after having shown that everything works properly again. Because that avoided all of us moving into my "garage loft" and draining all radiators in the main house to prevent frost damage. I had two tire punctures in winter as well, each time a screw. Since modern cars carry no spare tires, quite disgusting. According to statistics a tire gets punctured about every 12 years. If so, my age must be somewhat around 350 years . But thats life , and we actually ARE lucky, for example because we have the opportunity to enjoy (most of the time ) such great cars.
Ah, look at this as an example, batterie main switches with remote control appear somewhat common in the marine sector. http://www.svb.de//media/117312/pdf/manual_en_2011-02-18.pdf Some products even have wireless remote control. A German product with wireless remote control (Hella) is about 190 Euro for the switch and about 300 Euro for the wireless remote control. Yabonet Yachtshop - CZone Wireless Remote Kit für BEP Batterieschalter 701MD & 720MD Edit: so, just bought three switches described in the first link. Wireless remote switches for triggering such can be bought separately for small money. 300 Euro for this (second link) appears somewhat overpriced.
And here a wireless system usable for the device of the first link, above. It has 4 channels, of which two are needed as momentary contact switches (see the wiring diagram in the first link, above). Less than 40 Euro instead of 300 Euro . 4-Kanal Funk Fernbedienung Fernschalter Empfänger/Sender Einbau SET 12V - TASTEND - NEU - tostec With these both components there are no additional holes needed in the dash or elsewhere (except for fixing the devices near the battery, of course), the original state is easily restored by removal, if desired, convenient in use and to some account an immobilizer (although a thief may of course find the mains switch and operate it by hand). It should fit into the battery compartment together with the battery, if a slightly smaller battery is used; should be possible considering that modern batteries are much more powerful than those of the 1970s.
8714 for sale: Wunscholdtimer :: Disponibilité actuelle ::[showUid]=554&tx_car_pi1[CMD]=single&tx_car_pi1[title]=LAMBORGHINI%20-%20Espada%20Serie%20II%20-%20design%20Bertone&tx_car_pi1[backPid]=52&cHash=afd22b2c12 is already present in this forum?
Spent this Sunday mainly repairing the power window drive in the passenger door of the Espada. Two reasons for the disfunction: grime and wrong mounting of the (mechanical) cable lifting system. Luckily disassembling of the door trim was quite straightforward and more easy than in the Jarama. Except to one chrome door trim being fixed with rivets instead of screws by some ***** (I tend to suggest concrete gloves as a punishment for some freaks ). The steps are mainly as following. Disassembly starts with the armrest. This is in two parts, the lower part being fixed with two screws to the upper part, unscrew through two holes in the leather of the underside of the lower part. Unscrew the visible screw at the front end of the armrest. After having reomoved the lower part of the armrest two screws become visible, which attach the upper part of the armrest to the subframe of the door. Unscrew them, then the upper part of the armrest comes off. Unscrew the screw in the door latch release lever and pull off. Screw the lock-pin off. Remove the chrome trim parts (3) running around the door trim. For the front part you will need a very short screwdriver (not longer than 4-5 cm) at least for the two upper screws. Then take the door trim off. You will now look into the door and notice a subframe, which carries the electric drive and its gearbox on the inner side. Furthermore you will notice a complicated looking cable system operated by the power drive. First, detach the electric contacts (2) of the power drive (remember or note which ones belong to each other, polarity). Unscrew the two link halfs running from the door latch release lever to the latch. The cable system runs over various rolls. Two are located upmost in the door and are fixed pivotably (!) to the door and not the subframe. The same with two rolls at the bottom of the door. The inner side of the subframe carries a spring loaded roll and a roll for tensioning the cable by shifting in a slotted hole. The power drive has a barrel, onto which 5 turnes of the cable are wound, both cable ends being fixed at opposite ends of the barrel, thus forming a large loop. The cable is fixed to the window glass with two parts looking like roles (not rotating), onto which the cable is fixable by a fixing member fastened with 2 screws to this "roll". The cable makes one turn around each of these "rolls". I hope I did not forget any roll when writing this by heart, whoever is in need, write me for a drawing showing how the cable runs, I will then prepare one which is publishable . Anyway, make an own drawing of the status quo of the cable system. Move the window glass into a position, in which the two "rolls" thereon are accessable. This can be done with the emergency spindle or even by rotating the power drive spindle by hand (although this will take some time and negatively affect your mood). Then take a piece of straight large diameter rubber hose used for the cooling system and cut to lenghth, so that it fits under the window glass and supports the window glass against the bottom of the door. Then first release the fixing members on the "rolls" at the bottom of the window glass. Then release the nut on the shiftable roll from the outside of the subframe. Then you will be able to remove the cable from one roll and the cable will come loose everywhere (leaving you wondering whether you will ever get that reassembled). Finally you can release the screws of the subframe and remove the whole subframe with the power drive and cable. Disassembly of the power drive and rolls on the subframe, cleaning and greasing is more or less standard work. Of course, test the removed electric motor separately and repair as neccessary. Do not forget cleaning and greasing of the four rolls in the door, including their swiveling function. For the rolls I use specially adhering fat of low viscosity in sprayable form common in the conveying field. Reassembly is then the reverse of disassembly . The only point is to have the five turnes of cable fixed on the barrel of the power drive, since you will never be able to align this properly with the subframe mounted to the door. I did that using a cable binder around the two cable portions coming from the barrel, tightly applied this fixes the wound cable sufficiently. After the subframe has been screwed to the door, reassemble the cable beginning with one portion coming from the barrel. Take care to keep the assembled portion under slight tension to avoid the cable coming of a roll, which you have passed already. I works better than you might believe, I had all this done at the first attempt. After the cable is on all rolls, do not forget to remove the cable binder that had fixed the cable on the barrel, thereby keeping the cable under tension with one finger sowhere near the barrel. Check that everything is well assembled, including double-check of the cable on the barrel. Then tighten the tensioning roll so that the whole system cannot get out of order by operation (you may now remove your finger again). Then you have to adjust the window height according to how you have arranged the cable on the barrel of the power drive (you will want the window to open and close completely ). If you have greased the "rolls" at the bottom of the window glass, you will be able to push the glass up and down (the supporting hose removed, but then constantly support the glass by hand!), since the cable tends to slip trought the one turn of both "rolls". Best is to first contact the motor again and operate the window switch carefully, thereby observing the barrel of the power drive. Having established one end position (about half of a turn of one cable end remaining on the barrel), you can then, under hand support and operating the window switch, bring the glass into a position, wherein the fixing members can be screwed to the "rolls" on the window glass. Fix the rear one first and carefully operate the window switch to the closed position. Critical is the upper rear part of the glass aligning properly into the window frame. This is achievable by slightly tilting the window glass (the front "roll" still has the cable unfixed). If the best position is found, screw on the fixing member to the front "roll" on the window glass. Now test the full operation. Is everything OK, then shift the tensioning roll into a position that the cable is well tensioned, but the spring loaded roll still remains in its rest position. Fix the tensioning roll. Then you are done and can reassemble the door trim. Choose a day with good mood an have fun . All this is for a rather early Ser. II, I do not know how things are arranged in other series.
My Espada has some kind of chicken wire as front grill (upper part, above bumber). That really does not look like factory original (although one never knows). What is the correct material for an early series II, how does that look like (close-up pictures would be great)?
Here is what I have for you... it is original, unmodified, factory standard Image Unavailable, Please Login
Many thanks, Olivier, looks quite like the material used for the Jarama. I will measure the mesh width and wire thickness thereon and look where to get the stuff. Looks like what is called "Wellengitter" in German, I do not know the proper English phrase (corrugated grid perhaps?). The mesh width of the chicken wire mounted presently is about 40-50 mm (!) and does not really keep things away from the radiator.
VIN #8546 was residing near Roma for a quite long time, sold to Denmark... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Spotted a unicorn in Singapore....hidden at the back of a gas station. Image Unavailable, Please Login
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