Bringing the TR out of hibernation

Ahem, have a lift you can lend me?
Seriously, this absolutely sucks. First nice day since October and this **** happens. Please compose a sleazy analogy in classic Mr. Chairman style to make me feel better. I'm thinking something along the lines of seeing your lover after a long hiatus and BAM it's that time.........

 

The reference marks on the oil dipstick are for a warm engine. With the dry sump it should register lower when cold. Also, check very soon after shutting off the engine.

Concur with others, looks like the low pressure fuel line(s) to the pumps(s). Not likely the high pressure (steel braided) lines but if so a new copper washer may solve your problem. If you end up changing the low pressure hoses I suggest you also replace the cross-over hose connecting both tanks,

 

That's a great suggestion. I have already changed the return hoses but the cross over is probably original. Why didn't I just do it all while the car was up on the hoist??? So mad at myself right now.

 

NOT correct imo Tim, the oil should be checked with warm running engine !!!

 

Not correct (per Ferrari) Mel. From the 1988 owners manual:

"To correctly check the oil level, let the engine idle for some minutes (oil temp. > 158* F) then stop it and check the level after a few seconds".

Your 1992 512TR OM says essentially the same thing:

"To check the oil level, run the engine at tickover for several minutes (oil temperature greater than 70*C) and then check the level immediately after stopping engine."

 

She aint bleeding fluid from the gear box... Take it easy... lol.. Its not her period.. You took her out.. got her all drunk.. you refused to pull over so she could take a leak and she had to let it go.. Now she is embarrassed.. She needs new panties and a ******.. Clean up all that fuel.. change the broken hose then take your b*tch for a bubble bath..

Got it?

R

 

Must admit, she's blushing red, especially after taking a photo of her leaking undercarriage and posting it for the world to see.

PS. What worries me is that she didnt just take a leak, she dropped her entire load. I think I lost an entire tank of fuel unless the fuel gauge has had it (never happened before). Something just doesnt add up here.

 

The picture doesn't seem like much fuel loss. If you truly lost a large quantity you must have had a major hose leak. Otherwise, maybe the fuel tank drain plug came loose...
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The picture was from after pulling it out of the garage and starting her up.

Here's the deal:
Had a full tank of gas with Stabilizer.
No known leaks last fall
Connected battery tender and placed her in a bubble
Deflated the bubble today and found a small pool of liquid under car (smelled like gas)
Rolled car out of garage and started her up. That's when I took pic.
While car was running, I checked the fuel gauge and it was practically empty
No fuel on tires or outside of bubble.

I'm still puzzled as to where all that fuel went unless my gauge is bad. Could it have all evaporated? That's almost. 20 gallons.

 

I once had a triumph TR7. I stored the car with full tank several years and when I wanted to take it out again there was no fuel anymore. so I refilled and like I put fuel in this also came out again. the fuel tank has been so rusty that there have been a lot of holes in. like a sieve. but this normaly can not happen on a TR: the tanks are made of aluminum. also th efuel hode from the tank to the fuel pump was leaking.

so as I already mentioned: remove the aluminum sheet under the tanks and you see the leakage. just post a photo here then please

 

Hi guys,

So I finally raised the TR ass and got under to look for the source of the fuel leak. Hat tip to Tim BTW for the Low Profile Jack with the Extended brace. Harbor Freight has a great deal on a 3 Ton Version for $89.99. Brace is about $42 but the printable 20% off applies on that one. Total cost of Jack, Brace and a couple of Stands was $150. What a deal.

Anyway, I removed the cover to expose the fuel pumps and jumped the fuel pump relay pins (30 and 87) to look for leaks. RH looks OK but I noticed a little fuel on the LH pump but nowhere near what i saw last week. Also checked the cross hose that connects the tanks and along with the fuel bleeder nut. No leaks there. Note that the rear is still on Stands so I'm not sure if this is affecting the true leak source.

I'll continue to search but at this stage I don't think I'll be able to find the leak unless the car is down on all fours and running. That's the last option I have.

PS. I see Blake's Poor mans hood prop and raise you the Hayseed cardboard version.
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Kudos, you are a pro! Cardboard, brilliant! It's Green, it's biodegradable, I think I see a market for these
Good luck finding the leak. I know nothing about these cars, but could some line or seal have swelled after having fuel reintroduced by running after a dry winter? Still does not explain the low fuel reading, maybe the two are unrelated. If you dumped a whole load of gas in your cocoon, I'm sure you would know it?

 

UPDATE:

Looks likes it's coming from the RH Fuel Pump (my mistake for saying it was LH earlier) and more precisely, the seal between the Pump Can and the Cap (High Pressure outlet and terminals).

I believe the Bosch PN is W0133-1755100 and a popular pump used on many Bosch CIS Injection systems. If anyone has a cross reference, that would be great.

EDIT:
Original Bosch PN is 0 580 254 947. I believe this was superseded by 0 580 464 125 but they are not identical and require a bit of fiddling. Surprisingly, NAPA still carries the ...947 part for $260
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Glad you found the culprit.

 

I found replacement fuel pumps with lifetime warranty for $129 each, brand new. Of course I can't find the link but I'll look on another computer. They're not bosch but they look and act like the real thing. I've had them on for the past three months and no problems so far. Lemme know if you're interested in the non bosch part and I'll do some digging.

 

Thanks for that. I also found a Chinese supplier (I think they're called NIPART) that was equivalent and thought I can either change one with the original or two with these. Still undecided. If it's not too much of a hassle, please post a link. Thanks

 

Wow, holy crap now they're only $80!

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-5209846-oem-replacement-fuel-pump-ferrari-testarossa-1987-1991.html


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Glad you found the problem Sam. Pump is easy to change and replacements aren't $$ so double bonus. When you swap the pump though be prepared that you may find the original hose may be showing signs of being bad (from the inside) and you may want to change. These generally stay wet (unlike breather hoses) so maybe it will be OK and not have started to rot. My notes show that the original hose (PN 122736) is 15-23 X 78mm (15mm ID X 23 mm OD x 78mm Long). I believe it was originally formed with a 23 degree bend in it but having inspected it a few times it appears to me a straight hose (of the correct size) would work fine and not kink.

Your pump also looks a little suspicious with the missing paint and what appears to be (at least in pictures) some distortion to the case where it is leaking. I wonder if a PO or mechanic tried to beat on it to get it to work, maybe before they discovered it was a fuse panel issue

Anyway, good find and good luck. Let us know how things work out.

 

I once changed the original bosch pumps with some from china.

I will never do this again and nobody I would tell to do so. at high rpm the car was not running fine anymore. so I tested the pumps and at about 4,8 bar they deliver about 30 ltr less than the original ones.
also they have been a little louder than the bosch ones
so be carefull using this china scrap

 

Great deal and life time warranty. If these truly are an EXACT drop-in part, then I'll consider it. Thanks for the link.

Thanks Tim. I actually scratched the paint off myself trying to find the source of the leak. It came off easy at the low spot due to the fuel saturation.

BTW, Ricambi are asking $388/hose. That's just ridiculous. Gotta find an alternative there.

Well noted but with these prices, I can mount an extra pump/side

 

Anyone have an idea how this fitting comes off?
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no problem:
you have to hold the hexagonal under the fuel hose fitting and return the happing nut.
mostly the complete gland will get loose. so you have to hold the hexagonal that is turned into the pump. you may also hold the fuel line adapter with a pliers and try to looosen the happing nut.
when you put all together again use new copper sealing rings

this work is one of the easier things to do on a TR

 

how would you put 2 second pumps there? no space!

here are some pictures how I put 2 pierburg pumps in my koenig competition. so you see nearly no space for 2 pumps. so how would you put in then 4 pumps?
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Thanks Joe. The fitting was so tight that I had to cut the terminals away so I could rotate the entire pump off. Couldn't get a spanner in there either.

BTW, I was kidding about installing more pumps.
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I a going to buy that jack and bar!

Thanks for helping turbo joe!!

he was joshing...a Texas term for joke..