Fuel injection and fuel line refurbish

Just wanted to let everyone know, if you're thinking of doing a refurbish on your fuel injection system contact Larry Fletcher/CIS Flow Tech in Fairhope Al. 251-929-3771, first class work and a really good guy. Verell here on F-chat supplied me with the new plastic injection lines. (Thanks again for all your help also!) I must say, after sending my hard lines around the country to be zinc plated and having them returned to me looking like cr-p and being seriously disappointed each time, I can recommend a company called Queen Plating in Mukilteo Wa. (425)-315-1992. Cost just shy of $500 to have all the fittings and lines plated but OMG! What a super job!! Once you see it in person you won't regret spending the money.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Sure does look pretty! Has anyone had a hard plastic line fail without some form of physical distortion or rubbing? just curious, Lost

 

Very nice - just do check that the lines are all clear internally before you reinstall - maybe rinse them out with some fuel.

 

Queen Plating specializes in Automotive parts plating and actually went through each line and made sure there was no restrictions. I sent Larry Fletcher my fuel distributor, warm up regulator and the top section of the air/fuel metering box and his company went through those pieces. Pretty excited to start putting this little 82 GTSi back together.

 

Great work! Looks awesome!

 

I replaced last year all fuel lines except the ones from the metering unit to the injectors. These lines are black plastic with metal connectors on both sides. I like to replace just the plastic lines but it seems that these are hard to get. In this thread they refer to Verrell, can he still supply them or any other advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Contact Verell at Unobtainium Supply Co.—HOME

He has the black plastic lines and fittings.

 

500 USD just for plating? I paid 50 euro for the work on much more pieces!

I hope it includes labor to remove and reinstall everything

Ciao

 

True cadmium plating is expensive due to EPA regulations and about the only industry left requiring it is military and gov. contracts so yeah it's very pricey. The most common plating now is yellow zinc chromatic, not at all the same. Oh and there is the bit about hydrogen embrittelment that requires baking and fixed cooling times and adds to the cost.

I'd suspect your 50 euro cost was for yellow zinc chromate.

 

I totally agree with Larry Fletcher at CIS TECH.

Another source for the correct replating and proper procedure is one-time contributing PRO here Dave Helms, Scuderia Rampante, near Boulder, CO.

No financial affiliation other than a very happy, many times, repeat customer.

 

YEP. That is where I get mine.

 

Fail? Don't know.

30 year-old cracked, kinked and crumbling lines, YES. Check an old thread of mine for example pics. And don't fall for running your hand along them, feeling what you think is nothing and 'calling it good.'

They would make a helluva flamethrower if one 'let go' partially or totally.

 

Super, thank you very much!

Next question is how to fit them on the ends of the metal lines. The system pressure is like 3.4 bar so is there a special tool to fit the black plastic 5 and 6 mm OD lines on the ends of the metal lines..............or can you do so by hand with maybe some warming-up in hot-water?

For the 2 SS braided hoses the fittings seem not same as the Original but the picture is real small and hope anybody has experience here and will share that.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Years ago when I got my fuel line kit from Verell it cam with the tool.

 

From what I've read you can fabricate a tool using a couple of pieces of hardwood and drilling the appropriate size holes.

 

If i remember correctly from my days working in an aircraft factory, the cadmium is a blue gray colour and they have to seal the surface using a process called passivation, i think it goes a yellow/ gold colour.
One of the plating men got cadmium posioning after catching his hand on a cadmium part. Lots of powdered charcoal every day to try and absorb it.

 

There were no SS braided lines origionally, IIRC.

 

"Next question is how to fit them on the ends of the metal lines. The system pressure is like 3.4 bar so is there a special tool to fit the black plastic 5 and 6 mm OD lines on the ends of the metal lines..............or can you do so by hand with maybe some warming-up in hot-water?"

Verell at Unobtanium Supply has a barb insertion tool. It is listed in his catalog.

 

Please look at my thread "208 turbo engine overhaul and restore" from page two to page four. Every single piece there is in the engine compartment (including nut and bolts) were plated for a total cost of euro 50. We have severe EPA rules also here: I don't know how they plated them and I just know that it's the same shop that plated the silver 250 LM with red and blue stripes engine pieces that has been exposed for a long time in the Enzo Ferrari museum in Modena, Italy

Maybe they are zinc plated, but they are silver and gold color

Ciao

 

The thing that will puzzle most less experienced guys (like myself) is what tool and how it works. Its below tool that is offered at UnobtainiumSupply, whilst the use is detailed by Verrell himselves at (just scroll down to great pics) http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/186689-unobtainium-supplies-k-jetronic-cis-plastic-fuel-line-hose-restoration-kit.html
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I used two pcs of oak. Mate them side by side in a vice. Drilled hole under the size of the hose down the split. Then the second stage hole was just the size of the hose around the metal fittings. Then clamp the hose between the two blocks and simply press inserted the fitting.

 

well, that is about what I also intend. Verrells tool is great but for the 96US I like to first try it this way.

 

If you can push them in by hand I tip my hat to you.

NO WAY could I do that. I tried.

 

It's a trade-off. If your time to make a tool is less than the tool's price, then go for it.

TIP: be sure to inspect the insertion area afterwards to make sure the barb didn't go in at an angle & weaken the tubing(been there).

The tool is much better at holding the barbed fitting straight while inserting the barb than the blocks will be.

 

My time is certainly not less but I see it as a challenge and what can go wrong? If I do not succed I buy yours but still had the fun.
Thank you for your valuable information!!