tr engine removal questions diy

Yes you can hang the compressor. It's a bit of a bugger to remove it, but you can tie it up and out of the way.

Drain the coolant from the engine. On the rear of the cylinder heads are 22mm plugs. Remove those and let th coolant drain out from both sides of the engine.

Just pull the coupling. You may have to wiggle it a bit, but it will undo.

 

You can leave the A/C lines connected to the compressor. Unbolt the compressor and leave it in the engine bay.

The main electrical disconnect on the chassis disconnects easily, you will see when you get close. I believe it is bolted.

I believe there is petcocks on radiators or somewhere on the lower coolant system, or remove lower rad hose and drain into pan.


Checking valve clearance is easy with motor out. use new gaskets.

The popular opinion, If coolant looks clean and the water pump is not leaking, leave it alone.

you can change ignition wires , with 7mm suppressor wires and reuse red silicone wire covers.


Ago

 

This is for a Testarossa but may help you.

P

http://www.scribd.com/doc/193293189/ferrari-testarossa-how-to-remove-the-engine

 

Hi friend Tommy,

Can you please introduce yourself here ? Wher do you live (I live in Europe) ...

When, where did you find te TR ? And so on ... VIN ?

That way readers in your neighbourhood may contact you ....

Good luck; do read the very many threads about the EO (engine-out) ... and maybe this one too ...

 

I'll let him introduce himself but he told me he is from New Jersey and own two Testarossa. A Black with 6000 miles and a Red. He registered both with me.

 

Regarding the main electrical connector on the lower frame rail, it just pulls apart - similar to the electrical plug on an electric fork truck, when you disconnect it from a charger.

If you decide to drain the radiators, there is a petcock on the driver's side, but the right side has only a brass plug.

I concur regarding the water pump, if it isn't leaking - leave it alone.

Definately DO check the valve clearances, not hard to do at all. Consider drawing up a simple diagram for the valves and write down the clearance for each - this provides you with a historical record.

 

AC compressor remove or not? good question. if you have the right tools to uncharge and to charge again the system then I would uncharge and remove then the compressor, because when you take out the engine to the top it would be always there where you can not use it . this all would take about max. 2,5 hours. to remove the compressor and put it in again it takes without disconnecting the hoses less time when you are good and all is working fine about 30 minutes, but you also may need 2 or 3 hours. and then it is not sure that you don´t damage the thread. also it is a question if you take out the engine to the top ( then you have to remove the compressor from the engine or you need a new rear window ) or you take out the engine with the frame to the buttom. but then you have to do a complete wheel alignment again and this takes also some time.

I also think to let a not leaking waterpump untouched

valve clearance check and adjust ts a must ( write all the valve clearances down and what thickness the shims have - before and after. so for next time then you just now the new thickness you need then )

also a must are the 4 seals at the cams and of course new gaskets.

then new timing belts and new bearings

sometimes the threads of the spark plugs are a little damaged. when the engine is outside you can repair easily.

 

I wrote some time back a complete step-by-step..I'm awful at using the search function or I would post the link..

 

this is such a good description phil ! ! !
everybody can see and read that this was done by a mechanic, not by a theoretical student or engineer.

 

Contrarian opinion:
Pull the WP each time you do an engine out. Absolutely! No doubt about it - DO IT!

It has two seals - coolant to weep hole and weep hole to drive chain. The only way to confirm the integrity of the rear seal is to pull the WP.

Just pressure test the WP before you put it back in the car - no big deal!

Look at this link at post #47 by LP400S:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/424098-water-pump-seals.html

Rgds,
Vincenzo

PS: Valve clearance is a no brainer - DO IT!

 

^^^I'll second Vincenzo's opinion. I really didn't want to do it but I'm glad I took the plunge. My oil seal looked like the one in LP400S's link and my water pump seal was dry and cracked as you can see in the below pic.

I just rebuilt mine and am pressure testing it as we speak...so far no leaks! Don't be scared...Fchatters are VERY willing to help you through any problems you run across and their collective knowledge is astonishing.
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This is from another earlier car I just recently did (original INNER seal and new one after install). Previous major was done about 6 years ago. Not sure if they did the pump then or not. it was not leaking but look how trashed the inner seal was. I come across alot looking this way.

Believe it or not I prefer the earlier 2 piece wp seals for install. Very easy to install and less prone to cracking upon install since the part that goes into the motor only has one ceramic piece not two like the later ones. Make sure when you tap it into the block you have the right tool and you dont crack the ceramic part. Examine it very carefully after installing. Good luck.
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Early version WP seal post install
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WD-40 and various, fairly soft brushes.... Lots of rags to wipe off the goo.

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

To verify cam timing, you'll need to use a degree wheel to check the opening and closing events.