Can anybody advise on how to remove #32 in the image here: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/images/diagrams/full/F35527_131.jpg Is the removal of screw #34 the way to do it? 3 of them are listed under the parts list but I see only two mounting holes in the diagram. Also, will nut #35 fall somewhere inside the rocker panel if the screw is removed? Thank you...
IIRC there are two screws to remove on little tabs front and rear on the side of the console. To get at the rear one move the seat forward. Removing it is very easy indeed. The PITA bit is un attaching the engine cover leaver and removing it from the console. The body of the leaver also is held to the console via a single screw which goes into the lever housing into the cover. Then the cable has to be disconected fron the lever its self. I wont tell you whats in stall for you trying to remove the cable from the leaver housing so the hand break console can be removed. I will leave it as a suprise By the way, items like #35  are just plastic inserts thet the screws screw into. These wont fall out.
Use small screw driver to lift panel #33. There should be two screws underneath that. There is a screw on the R/H side of panel #32 near the panel you just removed. It should have a cap on it. Pop the cap and remove the screw. There is snap underneath the hand brake shroud that needs to be opened. Lift the panel and work it forward over the hand brake lever. Remember you can move that lever up and down to help facilitate the process. It helps to think like an Italian engineer...in other words, have a glass of wine while you do this
You forgot to give him a step by step for the engine cable removal From the console lol Dont give the man half the story mate
That would require a whole book. Lets see, You can cheat and notch the latch. Or you can release the clamp in the back lid latch and pull the cable ALLLLL the way out. Take your pick. Wine still helps....
Yea i pulled mine all the way out the first time i did it. I tried to thread it back in, and ended up having to buy a new cable, only then with a new cable and tube would it thread it back in I also had a glass or three
Reinstalling the bonnet latch requires cutting a slot to insert the cable through and you also need to disconnect the cable in the engine bay and reinstall and adjust after. This is not the easiest job so be careful Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok I'm confused -- maybe my car was previously hacked but it was a lot easier to do... Once I got the two screws out from the right side of the leather/fiberglass assembly (through which the handbrake goes through) I pulled the latch which opened the rear bay cover. With it open, I used a screwdriver and unscrewed the screw that is holding down only the latch itself. I was able to shimmy the leather covered assembly and the latch back a little bit. This allowed me to pull the latch up from the assembly -- the cable was still attached. Now I turned the latch sideways and noticed a screw that holds the eye of the cable coming from the engine bay. I unscrewed this screw and the cable came loose (but did not retract as it was not under any tension). Then I was able to pull the metal latch up and away, and then moved the leather covered assembly (the large piece #32) forward until the handbrake slipped out the back side. All in all it was pretty easy so that begs the question - did somebody simplify mine at some previous point in the past?
Does not really matter if you have done it. Sounds like it could have been modded. Only a picture of the leaver assembly will allow us to tell you if it has or has not. Without a slot the cable cant be removed from the assembly unless the cable is pulled right out. Pictures? Putting it back will be fun unless its modded.
Ok maybe I'm not that bright but isn't the putting it back in the reverse of the disassembly?... So far the cable is sitting down on the floor with no tension on it, I figure I will slip the assembly #32 back on the handbrake, then use a metal hook or a piece of string to tie to the eyelid of the cable. Put the string/metal hook/wire through the latch opening and bring up the cable forward a little bit. Position the latch side-ways and put the screw through the eyelid, then put the latch in its rectangular hole position, put the screw back through it... Why would this be more complicated? I'm having a glass of wine now and would do this tomorrow but really want to play it in my head ;-)
Ok, I now understand -- latch was cut before -- which makes sense why the cable just dropped once I got the screw out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it has been modded with the slot (like you show yours?) then why does the cable need to be disconnected in the engine bay? I thought that was required only if there's no slot cut?
Yea, it's been modded. I went the other route of pulling the cable out to avoid having to slot it. Although the slotted method seems to be the most popular method.
Because in operation it's under tension and you will never get it reassembled while in tension. Trust me, remove the latch from the engine bay and reinstall after the console is in and then adjust the cable. Don't close the bonnnet, adjust the latch by checking to see if it releases.
What Dave said is true. It helps put tention on the outer tube into the housing, also fine tunes the cable operation when it's loosened,adjusted and re tightend.
So I got this reassembled this morning... It wasn't too bad -- here are a few shots. (1) slid the assembly onto the parking brake and pulled the cable through... (2) put the latch upside down and connected the cable through the cut-out and put the screw in at an angle -- I know understand why this was mentioned as being under tension... (3) using a second screwdriver as a lever I aligned the screw... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
