Thanks for the tip in your thread. At last we have found the way to remove this head in just 3 days . Of course we have to make a complete overhaul of all components and valves due to the metal expansion caused by the the heat during the extraction. The worst is yet to come,in fact,this is only the left bank,tomorrow we are going to deal with the right bank . this is a very heavy work but worth the return to restore the mechanic part of a car like this. The problems on these engines is quite often causedby the very long downtime20:02 18/05/2014 in garage, likely to result inleak from head seals. this engine has only 19000 km and the cylinder head cooling water system is full of incrustation and debris deposit, because the car was left whit liquids inside for about 7 years. This car will be restored completely . We will'be happy to update you every step we will perform . VIDEO DETAILS : https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x56rz7nn8avizlc/AADYOntDQsqlQuisk4sPycSRa https://www.dropbox.com/sc/irncz2a8j6p2u5m/AACnmIMUJZJXWLW3Jhb115E2a Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Similar to the massive puller required to get the heads off of a 308. No heat was used in this case but it took thousands of pounds of force to get them off. Image Unavailable, Please Login
but already on the stud 308 have a lever for extraction. while in this engine are hidden no point to lean on.
highlighted by porsche928f in this picture you can understand how they are hidden stud. thank you for watching my post Tim. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I know exactly what you were up against. Required additional fabrication of places for the jack screws to push against.
you think you were lucky to have additional space fabrication of places, but I'm not Tim. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Remove right cylinder head finally!!!! https://www.dropbox.com/sc/htus0vm555vc3fz/AAAyysOOWkDTuE9dpfe0HG1Ua Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Aluminum heads on studded motors are quite commonly a problem. Poor cooling system service is a major contributor.
Another big problem will replace all of the stud of the crankcase deformed due to the heat used for the extraction.
So are we saying if you maintain your anti-freeze and coolant, If the head needs removed it won't be too difficult? Ago
It might help a bit but by now the damage is done. If the stud holes in the heads were a few thousandths bigger it would likely make a difference as well.
It can potentially prevent the job from snowballing to the point that the car becomes an economic total loss. In the USA with our overhead and labor costs that TR would probably not be worth fixing. If it came to my shop I would be advising a call to Ted Rutland to see what he would offer as a parts car and plug that into the decision making process. One problem is there is no estimating where the final cost will be on a project like this when you start. I can say the job here in question would, in the US, get to the price of a low end TR. Anyone not doing annual coolant changes risks this among other things and is a very big reason regular service costs on Ferrari's are high. Next time some idiot here says "Ferrari's are just cars, why does it cost so much?" think about this thread. No one cares if a Ford Taurus winds up like this at 25 years old. It's a $1000 car at that point anyway. This also highlights something else. A Ferrari and a horse have a lot in common. Time does not stop just because you have put them in their stall. They need the same care whether you use them or not.
Brian, does this also apply to garage queens? How does the antifreeze go bad, if you don't drive it? Do the corrosion inhibitors get used up?
Galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel is an electrical process facilitated by even a tiny amount of coolant acting as electrolyte.
Any aditives one can add to help decrease this? Mosy BMW's have aluminum heads, and the coolant is lifetime rated. Wouldn't the corrosion inhibitors get used up here also? Bo
Just like their lifetime ATF. Good for the life of the transmission. Manufacturers are all lowering service requirements to lower operational costs. Do you think it will be a big problem if a BMW motor is junk after 25 years? Will anyone care? BMW expects that 80% or more of their new car buyers will replace the car in 5 years or less. Do you think their service schedule is designed for the person who owns the car when it is 25 years old?
So is 2 years ok for a antifreeze change or should it be yearly? I'm not afraid of spending $30 in antifreeze and distilled water per year but I don't want to be wasteful either. Also when you change antifreeze every year or every other year is it a requirement to use the flush product or just swap out? PS, thanks for taking the time to explain this stuff!
The damage is done by moisture that has weeped past the head gasket. After enough time has passed I doubt any additive would help much.
"Just three days!" I salute your endeavours! As Rifle has said, labour costs in certain markets would make this an uneconomic project but it's great to see your progress here. Good luck as you go!
In an earlier life, I was a fan of Ford flathead engines. As a young person, with limited funds, and less knowledge, I found cheap and easy solutions satisfying. Often, engines had been "immobile" for many years, and - just as with the Testarossa - the heads were a PITA to remove. If the engine could be persuaded to run, even a little bit, here's what we would do: 1) Start and warm the motor. 2) Back off the head bolts about 1/2 turn. 3) Re-start the engine. 4) Often the running of the engine of the engine was enough to "lift" the heads. 5) It was hard to NOT rev the motor to hasten the process.
