DIY: 360 Fix your MAF for less than $1.00

I've been having some driveability issues and narrowed it down to a skewed IAT sensor on the MAF module. Instead of replacing it with a brand new MAF at a cost of $500-$800 dollars, I decided to just replace the IAT sensor. I found a Honeywell part number that is an exact replacement. The best part of this fix is the price... less than $1.00 USD! I decided to replace both side and ordered two from NEWARK.COM. The SKU number is 10M5322. Oh, and it is free shipping. Enjoy!
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:O
Thanks for the info!!!

 

... the cheapest fix on a Ferrari EVER!

 

Newark has free shipping? That I don't believe! ;-)

 

... and it came via FedEX within three days! They gotta be losing money on this one.

 

Unbelievable! Thanks for the info!

 

Great post...thank you. This is the same MAF that was used in the E46 M3 and it was fixed regularly with electrical cleaner before having to replace sensor or unit.

 

VERY NICELY DONE!

 

Thanks. I hope some folks here can use this info. Spread the luv mon!

 

Awesome !!

 

What were the driveability symptoms, and did the this DIY fix it completely?

 

That's brilliant, Mello! Cheers

 

Price in Honeywell box = $0.87
Price in Ferrari box = $325 includes $324.13 Ferrari tax.
Ahh gotta love Ferrari. I used to work for Austin-Morris and they always said that the only division making money was the spares division. Cost of a new Mini back then $500. Cost of building a Mini from spares $850,000.
Alan

 

Before anyone starts to think this is a silver bullet it should be noted that only the Auxiliary temp sensor has been reaplaced - there are a few other things that could go wrong inside the MAF.

It is a clever fix though and if you're having MAF problems it would be worth trying this.
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I think its excellent. Could be an issue on the PCB board.. but I think its a great, cheap first diagnostic step. I just ordered 4 just to have on hand..

 

This is why Ferrari owners get a bad name. “They are SO RICH....” they can just have spare sensors for Mass Air Flow units sitting in their garage.

 

I am not of the "lets keep replacing stuff until the problem goes away" kind of guy -- but for less than $2 this has to be an exception. I'm ordering two lest Newark catch on and have a Ferrari price.
Alan

Are there two per MAF as in the first photo I see the thermistor sort of clipped in yet on the other two photos is shows some sort of soldering. Please clarify.
Thanks

 

Excellent find indeed! Thanks for sharing info.

It is indeed usually the Thermistor / Temp Sensor that goes bad on MAF's as heat is applied to them / they are heated.

MAF's cost a lot because of the housing and the PCB. Thermistors are cheap.
Now we know the part number!

Thanks again!

Dan

 

It runs fine during initial start up in open loop. But once in closed loop and after the engine is fully warmed up, I get sporadic RPM flunctuations (+/- 100 rpm). Slowly it graduated to engine hesitations after a stop or light pedal pressure. And this seems to varie depending on the time of the day. I plugged in the scanner and it was obvious to me that the IAT readings differs between the banks and the ambient temperature when the engine is stone cold. I swapped the MAF between the banks and the erroneous reading follows the bad MAF. I scoped both of the MAF signal output and they are fine.

I then replaced the IAT and confirmed that both banks are reading consistently and in line with the ambient temperature. Now I don't get the hesitation on light pedal pressure and the throttle response is crisper. But I'm still getting the RPM fluctuation. My next step is to check the COPs for misfiring.

 

Only one thermistor is used per MAF. I cut the defective thermistor out and tack-solder the new one in its place. The thermistor is not polarized. I snipped the lead short of the crimp connector because it looks like it was micro-welded in place and I didn't want to take the chance of destroying it.

 

Bad MAFs as mentioned are usually hunting idle, reduced power and acceleration hesitation.

 

The cause of the RPM fluctuation was a loose hose at bank 1 of the intake plenum. I took a trip to a local Ace hardware store and bought a bunch of spring hose clamps of various sizes. That fixed it!
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Thanks for the update!

Dan

 

Welcome back!

 

Thanks Steve!

Will post photos of my visit to Ferrari Museum soon.

Dan