Clutch wont engage

Check the clutch cable-it can break. Mine did. It's not a complicated fix.

 

If the cable was broken, the clutch should be "permanently" engaged. This sounds like the opposite problem - the clutch is permanently disengaged.

There's almost no way a clutch disc can be so worn that it won't provide some drive though it may slip. I'd say there is a different problem. Any weird noises associated with trying to engage/disengage the clutch with the engine running? Does the pedal feel normal pressure-wise when you depress it and does it have the proper amount of travel and free play? IOW, does it FEEL like it's activating the clutch or does it feel disconnected?

Was the clutch disassembled in the work that was done on the car?

 

Are you SURE it is in gear? Double check the axles are in there?!

Good news is that if it is a problem in the bell housing, getting to it will be easier than every other car you've had.

I'm not sure I'd jump to this, but you can remove the transfer gear cover and see what the clutch output looks like and see what the gearbox input looks like. Then you could be sure which side the problem is on and go from there.

 

The clutch action isn't all that hard when working correctly. I found the TO bearing shaft needed some cleanup on mine and then the clutch was far easier. I could see how it could have gotten to the point of seizing the TO bearing. That would cause all your symptoms.


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You didn't put the disc in backwards did you?

 

No need to pull the trans or engine for this clutch. Just pull the cover off of the end of the engine. The clutch is right there. You get to spend some quality time in the left wheel well, but it isn't bad. I think I could get the clutch out in 30 minutes if I really wanted to. BUT, you will need ring nut sockets, so special tools are needed, either made or purchased.

 

Sounds like the clutch. Engine compression should stop that if the clutch is engaged at all.

If the trans is in gear can you still turn the top gear with your finger?

 

Make sure the geometry of the clutch lever arm and helper spring are correct. I have heard of the arm passing over center and there for not returning to engage the clutch again.
Compare your setup at the bell housing to the workshop manual

Good luck

 

Just download the manual you require. It has schematics of the clutch geometry and setup measurements.

All Ferraris

Cheers

 

Just to clarify - was the clutch/tranny working properly before you did some work/had some work done on it and it is now NOT working or did you purchase the car and have now discovered this condition?

If the latter, then there is no telling what could be going on/what a previous owner might have done and a thorough check is necessary. Heck, there may not be a clutch disc present!

If the linkage is over centered, again, there would be essentially no pressure involved in pushing the clutch pedal - it would feel disconnected. Certainly, check everything related but I suspect you are going to need to pull the clutch cover and take a look to see what is going on.

It's hard to imagine that the tranny itself the problem. The clutch disc could be broken - which I have seen several times (NOT on a Ferrari) but usually there is considerable and heavy rattle-ly noise as the splined section rotates while the rest of the disc does not.

Being able to turn a gear with one finger reaching in through hole sounds suspiciously easy but I have never tried that so maybe it's OK. Is there lubricant in the gearbox?

I guess a broken input/output shaft is possible but it doesn't seem likely; these trannys are not really stressed much by the engine power involved with these cars. I don't think you could break an input/output shaft under any oem-power conditions.

Good luck!

 

Superformance: Ferrari Parts for 246, 308, 348, 355, 360 and all of the Ferrari range Fast, good reputation.
/Peter

 

The tools needed?

Metric socket socket
A couple of wrenches
Flat head screwdriver
6 pack

Tools from Sears and the beer from Safeway

That should about do it


Oh yeah and one special nut driver socket from hill engineering


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Ricambi America (among others) sells the ring nut socket. It will be about $100.

I made mine. I used the finest of sockets from Harbor Freight. I picket the one that fit over the nut, drilled two holes along the edge of the socket and welded in short rods. Not pretty, but it works. Four holes and rods would have been better but this worked.
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Hey I like that tool Brian, I wish I had made mine now :-/

 

May all problems be resolved so easily!

 

I think it says that it was introduced "later", whatever that is, to make adjustment easier. What is the S/N of your car?
/Peter

 

Very early! According to Mathias Urban it is indeed 308 GT4 from 1974, so, I guess you have the right car. No more info than that in his book.

/Peter