Here are some pics of what I got going and finally finished today. So far so good and works well. It does what I intend to look for.... Sorry, the pics upload are not in order, but you guys get the idea. In addition what I didn't have pic is another switch for the pressure gauge. The gauge was design for "key on" powered, but I also tap in a toggle on/off switch from live 12v for me to wake up that gauge if I need to see the pressure deplete over time. Amber LED is signal from ECU to Relay. Green LED is signal from Relay to Pump. Along with the pressure gauge, I will be able to understand a bit more on the F1 fluid and command system. I know there is more we can look at as the system as a whole, but this is good enough for me.... Any idea, please feel free to chime in.... NOTE:::by the way, the blue wire I taped in behind the relay socket is Wrong!, the blue wire suppose to be at the ORANGE wire from behind the relay socket...ORANGE wire is signal from the ECU to Relay. (the black wire is ground)...I fixed it but didn't take photo.. Just in case if you guys wondering why I use Nitrous gauge kit??? Well, I had a hard time finding any other type of gauge kit that do high pressure...I should have gotten the 1000psi instead of 2000psi... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll be the first to say it.....You are insane!! That is a compliment so don't take it the wrong way, lol. I love your work and creativity. How did you make the face of the F1 gauge with the lights? I guess the minute your F1 system fails, you will know if it's an ECU (or paddle) problem, relay problem or pump problem. Very cool! I'm part of the naïve group. I'm going to assume that my F1 will work for ever. If it doesn't work, I will change the relay and if it still doesn't work I will change the pump. If it doesn't work after that, I will send it off to the repair shop If I'm not lazy, I will use a test light to actually find the fault instead of just changing parts.
The F1 gauge: housing is from PVC pipe wrap with "felt" to fit the 52mm gauge pod. Inner lense handcraft from high grade polycarbon fiber (stuff that use for race car windshield). Outer lense same material but thinner. Chrome bezel bought from ebay. LED lights are from Radio shack. The white inner face is a layer of thin vinyl sticker. "Wording" are from help of my brother work at a printing company. Backlight is from left over LED strip in my tool box. The back cover of the gauge end is a "bounty" fabric softener cap from my wife. LOL.... The Nitrous gauge kit I bought from ebay, comes with sensor, gauge, and wiring. The pod is also bought from the same company I got the gauge. It is a universal pod, I use heat gun to soften the material, then shaped it to fit the "pillar" Well, I notice alot of question about F1 as to "How" and "When". So, What I got here will give me a bit of an idea of what's going on, I thought it would be fun to tinker around with it. There are lots of question and thoughts about relay being sticky and cause pump to fail...Well with the two LED, I can get an idea if that's actually happen or happening while driving and or key off. With the gauge, I can see at what pressure my pump turn on and or off. I can also see the amount of pressure deplete over "X" time and how much is it depleting. Pressure drop too fast or not holding will give me a clue of internal or xternal leak, or even my accumulator not working to hold that pressure or build that pressure as it intend. One question was most being ask is "how often does the f1 pump run?", I won't be able to accurately answer for everyone specific vehicle belong to them, but I am sure I can see this on my car. Hopefully mine is under normal condition! lol...I have to bring the car to the dealership to let them bleed out the air from the system. I done it already, but I don't have confident in myself, so for a piece of mind, I will let the dealership do it. I wish to see more of the system functionality, prior, during, and after shutdown. I would most like to see during, but I don't have an SD scanner, this is all I can come up with. A few more pics to show you what I meant about the material use: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice work, very impressive. I have to say though, the pillar mounted boy racer gauges look very out of place in a Ferrari. Right at home in a turbo jappa though. At least you didn't mount them outside on the bonnet!
Yeah, I know ha....LOL. I thought about mouting it straight to the dash somewhere, but I hesitate to drill and hole or cut on the dash. So I went with the pod, I didn't even put a screw thru the pillar to hold that pod in!!! If I decide to remove the pod, I still have an original, non tamper pillar/bonnet as you refer to.. Guess How I did it??? When I make changes to my car, I try not to tamper with the original as much as possible. That way, if I decide to undo it, I wont leave any scar on my poor baby...hehehehe
Got some info, if anyone interest: Took out for a short drive today just local didn't take it out on the highway. Every shift I made, I notice pressure drop about 50psi. At 600psi that's when the pump will run. Once it reaches about 800psi pump will stop running. I notice there are still bubbles in my reservoir when I got home, obviously I still have air in the system. I will take it to the dealership to have them bleed sometime next week. Thank you all for viewing my thread.
Very nice! I have replaced my F1 relay recently with a X266 which is a 50 amp with hardened contact. You might want to do the same. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Steve. Yes, I did upgraded my Relay to 70/90A Bosch. Thinking of getting another one for a spare.... you can see it from one of my pic attached from above.
Steve- The X266 is a 30 amp relay with hardened contacts, not a 50 amp. Assume you got it from Juri. Same one I am using.
