Will the new tcu help my clutch life? My 360 is a 2000.
I also have a 2000 360 and have been looking into the same issue. from the well-respective mechanics that I talked with, you do get better clutch wear with the updated TCU. You also get better rev matching on the downshift.
Mike Yes change your TCU to one flashed with the CS firmware as it will improve the shifting and your clutch life. Send a PM to Eric355 which is where I got mine from -- great guy to deal with. Cost. should be about $1500 Alan
I bought a new TCU from Daniel. It was spendy but worth every penny. Its a whole new car. Clutch life is just a nice benefit.
You can double that amount down here. The updated TCU is just such a good upgrade. The 6 Sp manual owners don't know what they're missing........
Can someone provide that update part number for that TCU please.... and How do we know if that update TCU has "CS firmware" or not?
Take your pick......... 176552 185301 185741 189542 191701 193263 195399 197533 211023 ....... or do some research...... http://aldousvoice.com/2013/01/30/ferrari-360-f1-system/
or buy a 458, much much improved (AKA much improved squared). on that note, I'm gonna list my 360F1 and begin my search for a 458. on second thought... scratch that 458... I'm going to get the LaFerrari. even better transmission.
Thanks for the link Greg. I will do some reading and will find out what is suppose to be best for my specific application. 2001 modena 360. F1.
Thanks Terry. I got the number written on the 3X5 card, I will check mind. If I use the CS 196986, do I require to do any reflash to make it compatible for my application or it just simply plug and play ready to go?
The CS TCU is plug and play after transferring some data from the old one to the new one. Requires a dealer to set the PIS once it's installed. Below is what I gave the tech (but if he's good he should know it already). Alan CU swap sequence is as follows: 1. Plug in an SD2, and on the parameter page, read the "new closed clutch position" and note it down. 2. switch off the battery (obvious, i know, but you'll be surprised the amount of times i've seen e.c.u's destroyed if this isn't done!) 3. Swap it out for the new t.c.u 4. switch on the battery, switch on the ignition and leave for thirty seconds. 5. plug in the SD2. On the diagnosis page, write the original closed clutch position figure into it. 6. Set P.I.S. to around 4.7 to begin with.( this can be played with later to suit) 7. Now on the diagnosis section of SD2, a FULL cycle test has to be carried out. 8. Next, under diagnosis section, carry out a self-learn. At this stage, you will probably still see a blank screen. 9. Switch off the Sd2 and then the ignition. Leave it for thirty seconds, then switch the ignition back on and manually run up and down the gears. By this time you should see your display working and gears should all be selecting as they should. If it's all o.k they just need to fiddle about getting the P.I.S setting right until the change is quick.
I read up on the link by Greg, and realize I had read that before, but it was good to refresh. I check my TCU and the number on it is 185301. Base on fellow F-chatter, isn't this number to old for my car? my is a 2001 Modena 360, F1. So, on a different note, but still on F1 topic. I shared on this forum in regards to "F1 monitoring system" in installed on my car. Lastnight weather was good, took it out for a test run about 35miles round trip. Here is what I got and I think my car still have a problem, ... F1 system pump up to 800psi then stop running, pump will run if it reaches 600psi. Roughly about 3-4shift pump will cycle because of the 200psi in between. On the freeway cruising in 6gear, at max 800psi, within 10miles pressure deplete to 600psi, and there go again, the pump runs, pushing it back up to 800psi. In my head, I thought the system suppose to reach 900psi...so, I continue to cruise on. About 1 block from my house, comming to a stop light. I heard three beeps with the F1 sign on dash blinking. Immediately I looked at the pressure gauge and it was at 700psi. During the beeping and f1 warning light flashes, I could not move it out of gear not even in Neutral. I was stuck in 3rd gear. I gave it two light rev, but the clutch seems not grabbing...After the beeping and flashing light went I was able to switch gear again. I got into my garage and idle as I watched the gauge. By this time the pump had already push to 800psi, I was in park, my foot was on the brake. I notice the pressure drop quickly to 600psi within about 3seconds. The pump then ran again, pushing it back to 800psi, pressure drop again, but this time took longer, maybe 6-8seconds. The 3rd time that the pump ran, then the pressure hold. I still have a problem!!!!! I have to read up more on this F1 system and what causes F1 warning light to trigger other then low pressure. Could the TCU acting up???
Mike- The numbers I always heard were 800-900 psi, and you are in that range. Sounds like you might have a problem other than the pump.
Yeah Terry...The pump the pressure is within range and the pump is working the way is should. I am thinking to rapid loss pressure at one time and the depleting pressure with 10miles cruise, may cause by an internal leak or the accumulator unit. About the flashing warning light follow by the beeping sound when I was at 700psi, make me think of the TCU. I used the number you gave me for the CS, $2700...ouch. lol.
The brake light circuit is tied to the F1 diagnostic system. Replace the brake lights and give it another try.
Oh, hell yeah!!! I thought I read about this somewhere from this forum about LED light conversion effects the F1 system. My 3rd brake light(light bar at engine lid) bulbs, a few of them was out, I changed the one that was out, I think there might be anothers that are out. I will check it tonight. What is the deal about this brake light system tie into F1 diagnostic? anyone can enlighting me on that, pls... I assume that there is a safety purpose involve in this design? can we alter it?
According to Stef (Scud Ing Swiss) this is what he told me (and I couldn't believe that they went to all that trouble just to see if the brake pedal was pushed so you could crank the engine). I had LEDs for my brake lights and immediately changed them back so as not to have any F1 issues as others have done. Stef's brake light kit takes care of those issues -- very clever guy. Alan The F1 ECU and Motronic ECU measures the variation between cold and hot resistance, in other words, when the brakes are pressed and not pressed. That's only the basis but there are well more things like cold to hot impedance transition that must be taken in account and are specific to incandescent bulbs while LED's behave very differently. Ferrari made quite a clever system, maybe a bit too much. They literally and permanently "scope" the brake light signal at a high rate.
I converted mine to all LEDs and it only took a $2.00 6 ohms 50 watt resistor to take care of the problem. If you know Ohm's law, it doesn't take a genius to figure it out.
Sounds good! Any chance you can post the exact directions for someone who is not electronically savy?
