F40 LM Restoration

16 x 400 cc/min should comfortably support 750 hp. I do look forward to seeing a dyno sheet if you are good enough to post it.

 

Most people realise that dyno numbers are only useful for before and afters, and even then sometimes that can be problematic if not the same day (weather, etc.).

So dyno numbers should IMO be considered approximate. Dyno's are still wonderful tuning tools but that is what they are best at, ie. starting with x and tuning until you get cx
Pete

 

This thread makes me very happy, Keep up the amazing work.

 

If you can get Chris Harris to shoot a clip in it, that would be fantastic.

 

This.

 

Don't think Tim would have to ask Chris to do that.

If Chris gets a look at this thread, I bet he'll tweet Tim before the build is over. Chris loves the F40.

 

I am a novice mould maker and these photos give me a fantastic insight into how the professionals tackle such complex end products, thanks so much for sharing them Tim.

 

I love watching/reading about this process. Really wonderful.

 

Does that carbon fiber need to go in a vacuum bag and/or an autoclave to cure?
Alan

 

Mark 5 for 30 minutes I assume.
Alan

 

Loving this!

Carolina dyno is correct about shops artificially inflating the dyno number. Hell, I've heard of tuners taking a hair dryer to the back of the dyno stack to raise the temp so correction factor goes up resulting in a "higher" dyno reading.

Like Ben said, WOT tuning is the easiest.

Do you know if the tuner is pulling any plugs to look at the timing strap?

 

Tim,

Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding this, but it seems that MT is going to use a non-prepreg carbon fiber for a wet lay construction similar to how your splitter was made. I was always lead to believe that PrePreg was a superior carbon than a wet lay carbon piece. Having read through the entire thread and being familiar with the build quality from everything coming out of MT, what are the advantages of using the wet lay process for this project versus using prepreg?

Thank you very much

Cory

 

Just a guess but I would imagine it's prohibitively expensive to own an autoclave even for someone that does this high end work. Vacuum bagging resin infused carbon will ensure a perfect surface finish even in a standard oven which in this case seem more important than saving a pound or two especially when you consider a dry carbon lay up would cost almost twice as much.

That said I'm not a body guy at all so I could be way off base.

 

Tim, could you please ask them which spray glue they use/recommend to lay the initial thin fibreglass layer over the green/blue sprayed on release film. that process seems far better than trying to lay on a wetted with resin first layer. Thats the part I struggle with on complex shapes, an initial skin already in place would make it much easier but I dont want any glue to penetrate or dissolve the release layer.

Oh and the technical name of the white foam material please.

Appreciate your help I assume its that 3m product in the spray can.

 

Paul,

as spray You can use Airtech Airtac 2 (good stuff, expensive), Aerofix 2 (not as good) or (I think) Scotch Weld 770 (but can´t confirm, maybe another number).

The Core Material is 3D Core. 3D|Core GmbH & Co. KG

Good Stuff. Build some seriously light Longboards with that stuff.