Garage Lifts - MaxJax

What model?

I have a guy in Temcula thats Mr Lift with wholesale prices, I can look it up at home as I am putting one in my Driveway LOL neighbors will hate me

Theese Dudes

http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/?mm_campaign=4e1bf3c70b9690aed7baa14a24441011&keyword=car%20lifts&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=car-lifts&gclid=CMnY-4ifmL8CFQGTfgodXxQAlA

 

I have one and like it very much for a home garage application (low ceiling, need for disassembly between uses). I've completed two engine out services on my 348 using it.

I'm near by you. Shoot me a PM if you're interested to stop by and check it out.

 

I have looked at this a couple of times and that Costco price is pretty attractive.

What is the concrete floor thickness required for installation? I have visions of this thing ripping out of the floor with a car at 45"

 

Yes, now all you need to do is throw one of those blue tarps over it when your not using it. Ghetto x 100..LOL. It will give your hood that Fontana/Fontucky look they so enjoy

 

Thats my only concern with a asymmetric lift and why our shop insurance advised against them. All the weight offset if there is any issue with the concrete down they come.
On light cars it's OK but never on a heavy car. I always go for safety first.

Heres an illustration that says it all
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I recently installed a Mohawk A7 (Asymetric). It's a really expensive lift - it cost me $5700 and that was the lowest I could get them. It's designed for low ceilings and built like a tank. the bad news is they are not very customer friendly. It's a 7000 lbs lift and they recommend 4.5" of concrete. I have 4". I did not use the wedge anchors they supplied because I drilled thru the floor and the wedge anchors are recommended in a blind hole. I used Hilti epoxy anchors and even though the rating is fine, I just had no prior experience with them and was having a hard time with gluing rods in concrete LOL.

I just lifted my Maserati GT (5000 lbs) Tuesday. When lifting, I put my hand on the column to see if I could feel any movement - none at all. I'm so OCD that I'm going to bring a dial indicator home and set it up on the baseplate and see if it moves at all - just curious.

Mohawk has a huge base plate with 7 anchors - so I'm not really worried.

I did actually just PM Tim since the car will bounce a bit on the lift but many have told me that's normal. I'm just not used to it so it will take time to get comfortable.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I should have mentioned....

The force on the concrete is the same 1" off the ground as it is at full height. Just an FYI.

 

Just keep an eye on your center of gravity and you will be fine

 

Simple - you back the car in. See photos.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Another F chatter
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

If you concrete is questionable get new concrete poured where you want the base of the pillars problem solved.

I have a Max jax got it on sale and bought it for me Christmas gift.

When I finally find me a new house with actual space so I can work on my cars ill get a proper two post this one is nice but its to low to actually work under it for me.
Even on my castered seat. I did use it to tear apart my suspension and pulling the engine out of the 355. Works fine for it.

Good tool.

 

I own one and have installed it (see my thread regarding the 348 Major I'm doing). Absolute best money you can spend in home automotive maintenance!!! Get the epoxy anchor set from MaxJax for $150 and you will feel much more secure under your car. I absolutely love the lift. PM me with questions.

 

Have one. Perfect for our size cars. Remember, lifts only 48" or so. But plenty high enough
to scoot around under car on stool or elevated creep. Installation was not difficult. took about 2 hrs to drill all the holes.

Have had no trouble with it.

 

First post, but been lurking for a bit. I'm in the early stages of looking for a 348, and need to sell other cars first and paint/tile my garage floor, but FChat seemed to be the best for research purposes. I figured my experience might be a benefit for anyone looking.

Anyway, I bought a MaxJax a while back to replace the front differential in my Trailblazer SS. It's a $4-6k job at the dealer and independent mechanics won't touch the job because the oil pan has to come out to do it... So with the MaxJax, sourcing a diff, all other "while-I'm-in-there's" together were all under $3k. I also had full written spousal approval for the lift because it was going to be safer and save money.

The only problem I've had with the MaxJax is that I had to drill 2 sets of holes because the arms are somewhat short. So for my SS, I have to have the posts closer together to reach the frame, but had to drill new holes further apart to space out to my M3's jacking points.

If you're seriously looking for the MAxJax and can't get the Costco price or are not a member, HomeDepot sells it online and will ship to a store for free. What's good about that is that HomeDepot will match any price on it. I found it for sale at Northerntool for sale for $1900 or so and HomeDepot matched the price, so they'll do the same for Costco.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/vjlax18/1149189_10153155196495092_633971603_o.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/vjlax18/1479200_558281260919131_1847947375_n.jpg

 

What concrete thickness do you guys have for these installs?

 

Love my 4-post ...

 

See page 3 for concrete requirements - they state 4-1/4" thick, 3000 PSI.

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/files/PS-7REVA_v2.pdf

 

I want to say my concrete was at 4 1/2 inches.

 

You never know unless you drill a measure the hole depth, mine was supposed to be a 4 inch slab and it was maybe that at the thickest point. Most of it was 8~12 inches (must have been dumping extra concrete).

 

Thanks. Mine is at 4". These lifts get me nervous...especially if you cheat the base.

Decisions...

 

You are only 1/4" from the specification. It's not going to be any issue and remember, they have saftey factors. Look at the PDF I posted, and the website - they actually provide the calculations so you can see.

 

If it's only 4 inches and you're worried about it, you can always have 2 sections cut out (easy to saw through 4 inches) and have deep concrete blocks poured. You'd just have to wait 30 days to install the MaxJax.