Fixing wires?

My favorite has always been to solder and use shrink tubing when the wire is separated... i.e. when the prior nitwit "mechanic" cut the wire, wound the new wire to it and then electrical taped over it.

Perhaps some of that liquid insulator? I haven't used it yet but just to restore the insulation it might work well. You're sure the integrity of the underlying wire is good? i.e. it's not broken due to the pressure?

 

My favorite is to cut and and repair with the crimp connectors with integrated heat-shrink tubing that the salt-water boating people use.

 

You must very very careful in newer cars what wires you solder. The safest thing to do if your unsure is crimp and shrink tube.

 

Agree about soldering --- be careful --- the heat conducted through the wire can damage sensitive electronic components if they are close enough by.

My favorite is to wrap them well with silicone tape (self-fusing) it seals much better than traditional vinyl electrical tape, and it is a much better insulator too. Only drawback to it is that it is more easily cut or abraded (as it is kind of soft) so the repair needs to be in a location where it is protected.

 

Cut and use this heat shrink connector. You should buy a wire crimping tool to properly crimp this connector. I also would use extra heat shrink over this just to be sure. Use a hair dryer to shrink. Do it right--do it once.
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Soldering in a car really isn't a good idea. Too much vibration. Mil-spec butt crimps and sealant type heat shrink are much better and will last longer. Talk to Dave Helms on the topic ...

 

I have had more corrosion with crimp connectors than I care to remember. I live here in the salt air. Every single time when they fall apart there's green copper oxidation on the wires. Every single time.

Granted an OEM connection that's crimped on the engine.. I'll crimp it. But in the passenger compartment with 4 inches of wire lead on either side of the break.. if there's THAT much vibration, there are other bigger problems.

 

I don;t like to solder either due to the heat. I have tried liquid insulator, did not work, but like everythnig in life maybe there are better brands.

When I do use crimps, I get the kind without the insulation as usually it is inflexible and cracks. I use shrink-tube only. Like Jaguar says, you need a crimp tool (which is different for insulated vs. non-insulated)

 

Nothing wrong with soldering ... assuming that the length of wire from the solder location to the nearest "sensitive" component is more than a few inches. The amount of heat conducted down the copper wire diminishes very rapidly. If you hold the wire in your hand you can feel any heat conducted. Within about 3 to 4 inches, the amount of heat is very low and will not cause any problems. If the wire really heats up to the point of that it might cause damage, or your hand become uncomfortable holding it (4 inches away from the joint), you are holding the solder tip to the wire too long. Some people use lead free solder purchased at the local hardware store. Don't use that stuff. It normally requires higher temp to melt and does not flow along the wire strands very well. Make sure you use a 40/60 rosin flux solder (40% tin 60% lead). Put a piece of shrink tubing on the wire before soldering and then apply a heat gun to shrink the tubing around the joint.

A solder joint with heat shrink tubing is much more secure and weatherproof than crimp connectors. Nothing really wrong with crimp connectors, but soldering is better (assuming you make the joint correctly).

Regards,

Steve

 

There is actually one thing that is wrong with soldering...the solderer! Like welding, anyone can weld but, can you do it properly? I have played around with electronic stuff for a long time and am very good at soldering. I would say 95% of people are horrible at doing a competent job.....not enough heat to flow and have a nice smooth connection is the usual. Without getting into it too much, you can use a heat sink.

Personally, I would in fact solder and heat shrink. But for most, use the heat shrink connector I have shown, and like I said, heat shrink it again to protect from the elements. Make sure it is completely shrunk enclosing the spot completely, not just smaller.

If you are getting green corrosion, you are doing something wrong. Wrong solder, flux, copper wire on steel wire...something.

 

Even better still --- if you do choose to solder --- go to Radio Shack (or another electronics supply store) and pick up some silver bearing solder instead. Better electrical performance and superior corrosion resistance.

 

Do not understand why you would cut wires that are in one piece. Simply insulate the wire. Why cause all these problems?

 

I'm with tinbender. I would insulate rather than cut. Why introduce a failure point when all it takes is a decent wrap.

 

My 2 cents...Don't listen to the video. Use shrink wrapped connectors like I pictured. The blue is NOT plastic like in the video, it is blue shrink material. The connectors he is using are complete junk which I would NEVER use. Guaranteed future problem. That big tool he uses is for house wiring, not for small items.

Use shrink wrap connectors, heat and shrink, then use an extra shrink wrap to seal. If you really want to do it right, tin the ends....solder the ends individually first, then insert into connector.

If it is just nicked, use liquid electrical tape to seal. Wipe with alcohol first to clean.

 

I also do quite a bit of electronics wiring and find this recommendation to be spot on.

 

How far to the nearest factory connector? My first choice would be to pull the pin out of the connector, place shrink wrap over the bare wire and then put the pin back in the connector shell. Is the wiring harness in a plastic sleeve? Can you pull it through?

 

Messing with a factory pin connector and taking it apart is a prescription for trouble. They can be brittle from years of use and possibly of heat. If it is a normal male-female plug and play, that is one thing. But messing with a pin in a post can be looking for extra work and possibly big expense if you break it.

My recommendation to someone asking for advice on how to fix the simple problem you have, do it my way my way and be done with it. Don't mess with the pin....it is above your pay grade and you will have a problem....I guarantee it.

 

What is a pin in a post?

 

Me thinks this much to do about nothing. At the beginning, this was just some exposed copper wiring where the insulation was missing. For goodness sake, just put a couple of turns of electrical tape on it. If you have some self amalgamating tape, use that. You can further protect the wire with some cloth friction tape.

If the wire is truly broken, or in danger of such, cut it and splice it like jag15 suggested or if you think you can do good job soldering, make a solder splice and shrink tube it.

Don't get all carried away with trying to remove pins from connectors. If you don't have the correct extraction tools you are going to make a mess.

Steve

 

That is correct. If you don't have the right tools or skills you will make a mess of it. That goes for all DIY projects not just this one. But he asked what the best way to repair it is - not the easiest, not something that is in his skill and tool set. I believe the best way to preserve a wire's long-term ability to conduct current is to NOT CUT IT.

 

I would just use this ...

Product Catalog&#160Scotch® Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape : Electrical Commercial and Industrial: 3M US

Steve