Looks like I may now be in this predicament. Looking for the parts I need to order now...
Sean, if you don't have any luck elsewhere you can go to Unit2 INC on the internet. Call them and ask for Scott. Part numbers are AND6003 (Regitar Regulator $48.00) and INR734 (Regitar Rectifier $48.00). Ernie referred me to them. Good guys and they ship promptly. Henry
Thanks, these items being $48 each are they better than the 2 other items for $40 total I saw before?
I don't know of any $40 parts that I would trust Sean. I did go with OEM parts for my first rebuild and they failed shortly thereafter. Ernie put out a thread when he changed out the parts on his 348 alternator. It's the same as a 355 however.
OK, I made a quick call to a local alternator shop and they said $30 each for the parts though on the RN-02 he said it crossed over to a different number now and it was 120amp alternator. Edit: Called another shop and they also said the numbers crossed over to Transpo/Nippondenso numbers. He said there was no difference but I didn't know whether or not to believe him. The prices were between $19-28. I'll be calling the company you suggested to see if I can get authentic Regitar parts or not.
Yeah I know that there is some confusion on this issue, but like I said, te authentic Regitar parts have worked the best for me thus far. But who knows, you might have come across another (cheaper) source for the same product.
Two of us have had issues with the Regitar voltage regulators for the 355. One had a failed one out of the box, mine failed after about two years of use. I would not recommend those as replacements. I currently have my original back in my alternator....working fine still. I had replaced with Regitar parts to prevent future failure....go figure. We need to come up with a superior alternative to the Regitar parts (made in China btw).
Might be risky, as similar problems were reported by JM3 at the start of this thread (reread that for reference). Are the oem Nippondenso parts available? That would be my first choice if they can be found/sourced.
Well, that's what's confusing is when I called the shop the guy was explaining to me how the Transpo and Nippendenso parts are the same thing. I didn't really understand his is extensive explanation but it sounded legit.
Great thread - I suspect I will need it soon but my current problem is a bit simpler. My alternator sense wiring was dead. One more part number for you folks: The alternator pigtail: C1850 Nippondenso Alternator Wiring Harness Repair High output alternator, Alternator & Starter Parts - Search The Alternator simply quit and I lost battery power. Check engine lights came on about 10 seconds before I lost all power. Quick boost to the battery and i was home in 20 minutes before it quit again. When I popped the plug out it fell apart in my hands. Looks like someone twisted up the wires and they chafed apart. l
Well I never did get around to repairing the alternator as it seemed to keep working OK and charging when I had a good battery in there. However now, year later, the brand new Die Hard gold battery is toast and there appears to be a short from positive to ground making it impossible to charge the battery in the car with the cables connected. Even out of the car it charged to 8v and that was it. So now I'm looking at alternator repairs again.
Has anyone locked down a supplier for the Regitar VRH2005-4A and the Rectifier? My alternator has failed and I need these parts for a rebuild but cannot seem to find a supplier!!!! Help! -Thanks..
Guys, when you rebuild your alternator don't forget to repack the bearings with fresh grease (not too much though). When I pulled mine apart to change the regulator and diode pack the grease in the bearings looked like dried up wax. Bob.
Thanks for the tip Bob...will do. I I wound up getting the Regitar parts for about 60 bucks plus shipping. fingers crossed going to get into this tomorrow when I find a lift
Got the alternator rebuilt about 700 miles or two and a half weeks ago and my alternator failed again a couple of days ago. This is really frustrating. When I rebuilt it I installed aluminum heat shields that I thought would do the trick but apparently they didn't do much at all. I re ordered the parts and am going to wrap my headers near the alternator. Gad!
I wouldn't mind betting that some of the issues here are the wiring immediately before the alternator and not the alternator itself. When I first got my 355, about 10 years ago, I had this exact failure. The sense wire went open circuit. The failure mode is that vibration causes the copper wire to fatigue break (like bending a paper clip 100 times) but outside the wire looks intact because the plastic insulation is more flexible. It was intermittent at first. anyway, it's something to consider. Bob.
That wire is the first thing I'm going to check! I have heard this before and it would be consistent with my symptoms... such as intermittent alternator light. Thanks...
Hi, i checked regitar website and cannot find online ordering anywhere. May i ask where you ordered it , was it online?
Sorry for the delay. Call nations starter n alternator. Ask for Adam. Order the DENSO regulator. I have isolated the failure to be the regulator and not the rectifier. I had to do the rebuild twice. The first time I replaced both the rectifier and the regulator. The 2nd time I replaced just the regulator and it solved the problem... Was it a bad Regitar part? A heat issue? A voltage issue via a bad stereo install? Not sure... But. ...the problem is certainly in the regulator.
Hi I found a local store called LAO (www.laonv.be ... it's certainly handy for the Benelux owners ;-) who specializes in alternator rebuilds. I had to give them the original Nippondenso nr which you find on outside alternator label. Mine was still readable and as soon as they have the nr , they Xcheck in the Nippondenso service catalogues they have. Each alternator has its own exploded diagram and so they find quickly the (compatible) part nrs i was looking for. I installed them last thursday, have now again good charging voltage arround 14V at the pin. Amazing is also that my idle rpm is back to normal! (1050). So X fingers, lets see its reliability.