Mid-Range Hesitation | FerrariChat

Mid-Range Hesitation

Discussion in '348/355' started by RSO1091, Aug 20, 2014.

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  1. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    My car has been running absolutely great for the past year, but I got an intermittent CEL 5-8 over the past month, but it went off as quickly as it came on and the car continued to run strong. So I get the brief light again yesterday (went off again), but this time I experienced some mid-range power loss. I tried to identify the CEL, but couldn't get one to show, so I re-set the system (power shut off and then idling for ten minutes) and took her out for a drive. Started out well, but quickly went back to her old ways. When I pulled into the garage, the voltmeter went down to 12.4 when the fan(s) kicked in which is normal, but the voltage didn't recover until I goosed the throttle a bit. I detect a slight miss when idling as well.

    So without a CEL to guide me, where should I begin fellas? It's a 1995 2.7 GTB. Seems like a relatively minor hiccup (I hope).

    Thanks for any guidance, Henry
     
  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,244
    socal
    Alternator output being that low can help cause all kinds of problems and ghosts.
     
  3. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    The alternator stays at the 14.2 except when the fans come on at idle and then they normally just recover right away. I don't think it's originating from the alternator, as the CEL 5-8 came on and not the battery light.
     
  4. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

    How severe was the power lose?
     
  5. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,244
    socal
    #5 fatbillybob, Aug 21, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2014
    Hmmm...So which is it? 12.4 or 14.2? Heck you could even have a fuel problem. Internet diagnosis is frought with problems.
     
  6. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    11,276
    CT
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    John Kreskovsky
    Hi Henry,

    Perchance did you notice if the idle speed was a little lower than normal when the you observed that the voltage did not recover until you blipped the throttle?

    Are you sure you are checking the codes correctly? If there are no error codes on a 2.7 car you should see the CEL light flash code 4-4-4-4. So you should see something if you check for error codes, even if there are no errors.
     
  7. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    The idle speed was in fact low and rough John. It cleared up as soon as I gave it some throttle though. I'll check the CEL readout again now that I've reset the system a second time. I wasn't aware of the 4-4-4-4 code. Thanks.
     
  8. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    I agree FBB, but I'm grasping at straws here. It does act like a fuel disruption might.
     
  9. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,244
    socal
    The era of the 2.7 motronic is right there with the 348 2.7 electronics. They had many ghosts due to electrical connection etc. To compound that was a wonky OBD that worked great on paper but just lacks the robustness of OBD2 and thus it's diagnostic ability not to forget it's wonky interface. I am way less likely to believe OBD. But that said and knowing 2.7 electronics first stop has always been pull the obd codes and view them with a jaundiced eye. Accept but VERIFY. Clean all engine electrical connections bend pins to ensure connections. 2.7's were so bad I routinely like every 3 months just change a fluid and clean all connections. Cleaning was not elaborate. We did all that stuff with Stabilant-22 thinking we had a magic genie but it just did not pan out. There was no magic juice just contact cleaner spray and let dry for a couple hours and reasssembly. Then see if your problems return and start your diagnosis from a known good starting point. Then you can take a close look at electronics or fuel and work your way up those systems. It is a caveman approach but works until the car electronics gets more advanced and you can use other tools to track a problem. Don't forget old school digimeters looking at spark plug parade and raster patterns that can tell you a lot about running and where a problem can be. That simple tech works on anything with a spark plug.
     
  10. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jun 14, 2011
    8,636
    SoCal LA/OC/New Mexico
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    Tim Dee
    Like they said any intermittent problem first thing I do is clean / verify the connections on these cars. Once that baseline is laid down then you can look for the problem if there is any.
     
  11. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    11,276
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    Full Name:
    John Kreskovsky
    #11 johnk..., Aug 22, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2014
    I'm going to go contrary to the above two posts. I had a similar experience with my car which is a 95 2.7 car. This summer the CEL would flash on for a moment and then go off. Checked codes. They said 1-4 O2 sensor bad. Replaced O2 sensor. Car has been perfect ever since. I'm not about to pull the connector of the ECU and start Fing with it and potentially make things worse for a $60 part. There are times when it is appropriate to just start by replacing a part. Other times when it's more appropriate to look elsewhere. But, as I said before, check for the codes again. You should either get an code telling you what the error is or code 4-4-4-4 indicating no errors stored. That's where you start. Also note that if the CEL went on and off you may have to cycle through the codes. That is to say, OBD I will store the same code multiple times if the error comes and goes. For example, in my case the O2 sensor code was displayed 4 or 5 time before I got the "no more codes display" (series of flashes 2.5 seconds long).

    It is important to understand the differences between OBD I and OBD II. If you get a CEL with OBD II the algorithm for the system turning off the CEL is fairly complex, but OBD II will turn off a CEL is the error doesn't reoccur over a sufficient length of time and even erase the code. OBD I systems are generally much quicker to turn off a CEL if the error does not reoccur, but if a code is set it will not be erased from the ECU. It must be cleared.

    While not relevant to this thread, I encourage all owners of OBD II cars to download and read the following document to get a better understanding of how OBD II works. http://www.lbcc.edu/attc/documents/OBD2.pdf
     
  12. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    Thanks for the help and great advice guys. I'll start the diagnostics this weekend.

    Henry
     
  13. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Feb 18, 2008
    6,059
    Indio Ca/ Alberta
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    Grant
    Henry when it's idling rough it could be a loose connection to a injector. Mine also experienced a rough idle when my idle control valve partly came out of the rubber on the engine side. You might have two of them.
     
  14. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    Thanks Grant...
     
  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
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    The Bad Guy
    It's also a good idea to check the condition and contact of the crank sensors.
     
  16. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
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    Henry S.
    So I finally found some free time and cleared the codes from the car and re-set the computer again. Took out the MAF sensors and cleaned them as well as any and all electrical connections I could find. Fired the car up and let her idle for the prerequisite amount of time and then took a test drive. She runs like a dream. I'm just afraid that this is a temporary condition, but at least I've set the baseline again. Thanks again for all of your responses. Sincerely, I couldn't maintain this car without your help.

    Henry
     
  17. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    Jun 11, 2004
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    John Kreskovsky
    Curious, you said you cleared the codes which implies that at some point you were able to read them. If so, what were they?
     
  18. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,244
    socal
    Awesome Henry! If the problem was the connections the problems will return. This was a constant time waste and ghost chase the caused me to turn a perfectly good 348 streetcar into a gutted out racecar. It was either sell the car or make it run. It finally ran flawless when every piece of hardware and electronics that did not make the car faster was removed. That had the effect of reducing the electrical load on critical components and leave me with a core of mission critical connections I could manage. If I knew Helms bcak then and his gold kit innovations my life may have taken a completely different path. Today, I might be a waxer!

    Anyway, I have had amazing results with the hotly contested controversial gold kit. It just seems to work and make the cars run better and predictability. There is a whole range of connection management techniques like contact cleaner and S-22 contact enhancers. There is a whole range of refurbishment techniques all the way from the cheapest Ernie econo tin pin swap to the SRI/Helms gold kit method. The management techniques were basically a fail. It was constant and unrelenting agony that worked temporarily. Connection refurbishing is the way to go long-term. The job is tedious and demands attention to detail. More attention yields better results. It is such a painful job you only want to do it once. My time is valuable and that means go with the best connection refurbishment method you are willing to buy. It has been SRI for me.
     
  19. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Feb 18, 2008
    6,059
    Indio Ca/ Alberta
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    Grant
    Glad you got it sorted Henry maybe another two years before any problems.
     
  20. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    I don't recall the exact numbers John, but they related to a cat temp and cam sensor issue.
     
  21. RSO1091

    RSO1091 Formula 3

    Mar 31, 2012
    1,547
    Idyllwild, CA.
    Full Name:
    Henry S.
    I agree whole-heartedly FBB. I hope to install the gold kit in the not-too-distant-future.

    Henry
     
  22. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jun 14, 2011
    8,636
    SoCal LA/OC/New Mexico
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    Tim Dee
    Just to reiterate on this and what fbb stated

    I dont speak much of my background in the industry due to disclosures still in effect.
    These cars are amazing bad in the electrical dept. 90% of the things I find bad are a direct cause from bad or less then perfect connections. All roads lead back to fbb


    :)
     

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